solder question

[wattlebuster]

Ok guys. Im in the middle of this early virginia 40 cal build an instead of buying everything already made up Im making some of my stuff such as sideplate and front sight. I've never soldered anything so my question is to solder a silver quarter homemade sight to a copper or brass base what flux and solder do I need to buy :idunno: I have a mapp gas small torch an thats what I will be using Thanks in advance for any helpful answers :hatsoff:

 

[Zonie]

Almost any flux made for soldering except for rosin will work fine for soldering steel, brass or copper or coins.

Almost all hardware stores have small containers of it.

For soldering a front sight a lead/tin or tin based solder will work fine.

If it is a "silver bearing" lead or tin solder it contains a small amount of silver but not enough to raise the melting temperature much above a common lead or tin based solder.
Most lead or tin solders melt at around 400 degrees F. A silver bearing solder melts at around 500 degrees F.

Because silver bearing solders are stronger but don't require much more heat I recommend them for doing most gunwork.

There are a few places that call their silver based solders "silver solder" but in reality they are brazing alloys.
Typically a silver brazing alloy melts around 1100-1400 degrees F so small torches are not usually enough to work with them.

At these high temperatures there is also a chance of ruining the heat treatment of some steels.
The low 400-500 degree temperature required by the lead, tin or silver bearing solders will have little or no effect on a steels heat treatment.

As you have little experience with soldering my first recommendation is DO NOT OVER HEAT THE PARTS.

Overheating is the most common error made by people new to soldering.

Also, do not apply the heat to the solder.
Heat the metal parts slowly and keep touching the solder to the metal.
When it is hot enough, the solder will melt easily.

 

[TinStar]

On the parts set I got the supplier soldered on the front sight and three lugs. One of the lugs came loose (we are all human) and I had to redo it myself. Got some SWIF95 from Brownells on advice from someone. It's more than I needed but at least I have it on hand now. Anyway, I never did any soldering before. First time I messed up. But the second time it worked just fine and was a cinch. Had to heat the lug also on the second attempt. That was where I went wrong the first time around.

TinStar
Soli Deo Gloria!

 

[Birddog6]

You will have much more strength & stability of that silver part of the front sight is nestled into a slot or groove in the base. And don't expect it to just sit there straight like ya want it to as you solder it, as it will try to move unless it is a tight fit in the groove. You have to retain it to position til the solder solidifies.

Another way of holding it is like this, as when soldering underlugs to a barrel.

I hold the part with a old piece of hacksaw blade, bent so to have tension on the part & clamp holding the hacksaw blade down. (Photo is for demo, remove rubber clamp tips when actually soldering it)

Keith Lisle

 

[Vaino]

If the 2 pc sight parts are fitted w/ a butt joint, then I use high temp silver solder {over 1100 degrees}, if the blade fits snuggly into a slot, then I simply use Swif 95 solder paste.....Fred

 

[MJMarkey]

You will have much more strength & stability of that silver part of the front sight is nestled into a slot or groove in the base. And don't expect it to just sit there straight like ya want it to as you solder it, as it will try to move unless it is a tight fit in the groove. You have to retain it to position til the solder solidifies.

Another way of holding it is like this, as when soldering underlugs to a barrel.

I hold the part with a old piece of hacksaw blade, bent so to have tension on the part & clamp holding the hacksaw blade down. (Photo is for demo, remove rubber clamp tips when actually soldering it)

Keith Lisle

Keith, Love your clamp solution. It's elegant in its simplicity. I'm gonna make me one. :hatsoff:

 

[mikemeteor]

Yep, Keith's hack-saw blade clamp is a winner, it's bailed me out several times since I first saw it.
I put the non-business end in a portable vise now, where I can position it at any angle, with adjustable down-strength, on any small part.
I'm always reachin' for the "Birddog clamp" on any soldering job.
/mm

 

[VTdeerhunter]

Great tool...as a weekend blacksmith I am always looking for new and/or better ways to clamp and hold stuff where they just don't wanna be held to sometimes. Thanks for sharing.