Soldering barrel tennons??

[Brad Foust]

I am about ready to solder on three underbarrel tennons to my round 58 cal rifle barrel.
I have three bought tennons from TOW that are rounded where they contact the barrel. They are 3/4" long.
My question is regarding the equipment and solder needed.
Can I use my standard propane torch or do I need a finer tipped torch to concentrate the heat.
Do I need gas better than propane??
Do I need special solder of flux??
I have heard of "SILVER SOLDER" in such applications??
Any help would be appreciated. trying to do a nice job.
Regards, and thanks in advance.
Please answer here or by my e-mail at
[email protected]

 

[Black Hand]

Use you propane torch and regular solder. Silver solder is unnecessary and the higher temperature required could warp the barrel.

 

[LRB]

Stay Bright is a "silver bearing" solder, I think 5%, that is stronger than regular, and flows at only 430°, and is normally easy to find. Regular solder flux works with it. However, most any common solder will do what you need

 

[Black Hand]

I use Flo Temp Alpha Fry Lead-free Instant Plumbing solder.

The flux is built into the paste.

 

[Vaino]

First off...I hold some 220 grit paper grit side up on the bbl at each lug location and ride the lug a few times to ensure a proper fit

Holding the lug on the bbl, a Sharpie outlines the lug area. W/in this area Swif 95 solder paste is sparingly applied and also to the lug. A lug clamp lightly holds the lug down and mainly the bbl is heated w/ a Mapp Gas torch. Doesn't take much heat and the lug is soldered.....Fred

 

[Birddog6]

Do Not Use silver solder braze. Takes too much temp & you will have a tight spot in the barrel when you are done.

Use one of the low temp solders as discussed.

You need to retain the underlug or sight, as it will move when you go to soldering it. Bend up an old hacksaw blade as shown below, and remove the rubber tips off the clamp. Bend the blace so when you slip the underlug under it, the underlug has a tad of tension on it.
This will give you a way to retain it where you want it to stay.



Keith Lisle

 

[necchi]

Now I'm surprised,
I thought you guy's where all cutting and installing underlugs with dovetail,, :shocked2:

 

[Brad Foust]

Thanks to all, this has answered allot of questions.
Keep yer powder dry

 

[rich pierce]

Now I'm surprised,
I thought you guy's where all cutting and installing underlugs with dovetail,, :shocked2:

This is for a round barrel. But on many originals with round barrels I see dovetails. It can be done either way.

 

[Vaino]

On the present octogonal bbl {"B" weight X .50 cal. X 46" long}, I use 3 different kinds of bbl lugs.....2 are the normal lugs that are dovetailed, another lug at the breech end w/o a base is dovetailed and then soldered and the lug at the thin waist is just soldered on......Fred

 

[zimmerstutzen]

Thanks so much i am about to tackle a project with a barrel that is too thin for dovetails on the muzzle half

 

[Zonie]

Several important things to remember.

Do not heat the small part with the flame of the torch. In fact, don't heat the barrel or large part right in the area where the solder will be applied.

Heat the large part a little ways away from the soldered joint and let it carry the heat to the area where it is needed.

Always apply sufficient flux to the area after cleaning it off so it is oil/grease free.
The flux will further prepare the metal for the soldering and it will keep away any oxygen that might contaminate the area.

Never direct the flame from the torch to the solder. Let the heat of the parts melt it.

Applying a wipe coat (known as tinning) of solder to the small part will help it suck in the solder when the temperature is hot enough.

Do not overheat the area where the solder is going to be applied. This is not one of the "more is better" processes.

When the right temperature is reached the solder will melt and be sucked into the joint.

While applying more than is needed can make the joint look stronger it doesn't add enough strength to the joint to make it worthwhile.
When finished the joint around the small part should show just a thin line of the soldering material all around it.

Have fun.

 

[Birddog6]

Photo was for demonstration. I usually dovetail the underlugs, however on a thin part of a swamped barrel or on a Oct. barrel I may solder them on.

Keith Lisle

 

[necchi]

Thank you and Fred.
My next project has a C weight Colerain 54, I'm sure I'll solder the middle ones and dove tail only where it's safe to do so.

 

[Birddog6]

There is enough meat on the .54 cal C barrel to dovetail all of the underlugs. Make the underlug base about .035" thick & it will work fine. Cut the dovetail groove same thickness of the underlug base. I like the small light slotted underlugs that TOW sells. I don't like those heavy tall underlugs. Only time I use a heavy underlug is for sling swivel support.

Using A weight swamped barrels is where you can run into an issue, or a B weight .50 cal barrel can be an issue in the narrow of the swamp.

I would check the breechplug fit on that Colerain before ya start on it, as about 7 out of 10 I have used had to be refitted.

Keith Lisle

 

[necchi]

:thumbsup: Got it, :bow: