Speed Loader/ball holder

[SCW]

Can anyone tell me who makes these? Also what size drill bit sould I use for 50 & 54 caliber balls, what is the best thickness of the wood?
Would also like to see some pics of these.
Thank You!
SCW

 

[DougMPhoto]

Check out this link on the forum...it is a drill size conversion table. The loading blocks I have and have seen run about 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick.
[url] http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/192279/[/url]

I prefer 1/2 inch. When I get ready to shoot I push the balls (about 1/8") out of the bottom of the block so that I can place it in the muzzle easier and drive it in with my short starter.

1/2 inch still gives me enough hold on the ball so that it doesn't fall out.

"Keep yer powder dry"

 

[Tater John]

I would assume woods such as walnut or hard maple will drill smooth holes without burrs? Does anyone slightly chamfer the holes, is it necessary?

Rusty

 

[bwhoffman]

I chamfer the holes, mostly for esthetics.
I also counterbore prior to drilling to line up over the barrel, again merely esthetics.
I sand the hole with rolled up sandpaper to give it a more finished look also.
I have used mohagany with good results, but a thick patch and small hole will split out, you merely need to hold the patched ball, not swag it to fit your block.

 

[fw707]

Here's a few I made for a .32 caliber and a .40 caliber:

I like the board to be just a little thicker than the diameter of the ball so the lube on the bottom doesn't get rubbed off from carrying it around.
I drill mine (slowly) in a drill press with a good sharp bit and a backer board on the bottom so the hole doesn't splinter as the bit comes out.

 

[DougMPhoto]

I agree on thickness of board. When I posted 1/2 inch I shoot 50 cal and 54 cal only...and 1/2 inch works fine. Never entered my mind with either smaller or larger calibers. :nono:

Also, my boards are made from Walnut with slightly chamfered holes.

"Keep yer powder dry"

 

[CrackStock]

Half inch copper tubing flared on the ends makes a useful speedloader.

CS

 

[xxgrampa]

now that is a great idea for a short starter. :hatsoff: :thumbsup: :wink:

..ttfn..grampa..

 

[xxgrampa]

greetings,
if you have a fine wood or trim store in your area, they have inexpensive wood samples. these samples are about 4x4" and 1/4" thick.

get two and glue them together with the grain going 90 degrees apart. will make the strongest board in the world. should be able to swage balls with that rascal..

home depot has the wood in 1/4 x 3 or 4" x 36"
you will have to cut your own pieces..

..ttfn..grampa..

 

[SCW]

What about the patches drying out? How long do you keep these boards loaded? I bought one down at Freindship this year and loaded it up and I notice my patches seem to have dried out. I am using ox yoke prelubed patches.

 

[bwhoffman]

the patches will "dry" out 'cause the lube migrates into the dry wood. I keep my "fancy" one loaded, but it is more for the "bling" effect.
I load the others up prior to shooting if I use them. more and more, I am prefering to load from the bag while on the trail walks.

one thing I do on the ones I make...
rub thm with bees wax, put in the microwave for about 20-30 second and rub the wax in, everywhere. sort of seals it and lessens the migration of the lubed patches, but not totally.

 

[paulvallandigham]

First: All wood will absorb moisture and lube from your patches unless they are sealed. Just because you buy a wood block from a dealer does not mean the holes are sealed, or even filed and sanded to the best diameter for you. That is left to you. Use a dowel with sand paper to polish the holes. If you have a power hand drill, or drill press, these tools make this work a snap.

If you can find a reamer the correct size for the block you are working on, use it. You really want a block made out of a good hard wood. so that the end grain is tight, and smooth. Then, coat the holes with a good stock sealer and finish. Use the reamer after you have finished sealing the holes' end grain. You don't need finish on the surface of the wood; you need it in the wood itself. If you don't have a reamer, then use wooden dowel and very fine grit sandpaper. The ball and patch should be snug, but not a tough fit.

When you put enough sealer in that end grain, the wood should no absorb any of the lube from the patches. However, you should also understand that if you are not using a " dry " lube, the air itselt will suck the moisture out of the " wet lube " you are using. If its moist to your fingers, there is either water, or an alcohol base to the lube you are using.Alcohols(Oil, both Hydrocarbon, and plant based) evaporate, and, of course, any water based lube will also evaporate in time.

Seal the end grain and all the wood on the block with several coats of stock finish. The use of a sealer under the stock finish will keep moisture from seeping from the end grain in the holes into the block itself, and then out through the wood of the block itself. Shellac is a common wood sealer, as it fills the pores of the wood, and dries hard.

If you use a loading block routinely in the woods, or at the club at woods walks, or Seneca Runs, every couple of years the block will deserve another coat of finish, both in the holes and over the entire block. The friction of your hands, and dinks and nicks to the block from use will abrade or knock off the finish. If I am going out into damp weather, whether rain or just high humidity and mist, I like to spray a household furniture wax on my loading block and wipe the wax down a couple of times the night before the event. Before going to bed, I load the block so I don't have to do that in the middle of a dark bedroom when I get up in the morning. My loading block is the only piece of gear that still sees my short starter in use. I leave the short starter either at home, or in my box of gear that goes in the car on any hunting trip with all my tools needed to take the gun apart, etc.

 

[BadHeart]

I have a nice piece of purple heart wood, was thinking of making aloading block out of that for my son and my self. should look pretty good, and should be tough enough.

 

[Tater John]

Paul-or anyone else,

What would you say to be an optimium thickness in proportion to the caliber of ball? I'll guess thicker by about 1/8 inch, thats probably good enough? More,less?

Rusty

 

[paulvallandigham]

I don't think you can state a fixed rule on thickness vs. ball diameter. On a small caliber ball block, you don't need near as much oversize to protect the patch and ball as 1/8". If you are dealing with a 12 gauge ball or larger, then you might want as much as 1/4" extra wood to protect it.

I would suggest running your thumb over that hole in the bottom of the wood with a ball and patch in it. If you can feel the PRB, you might want to make your next block a little thicker.

 

[fw707]

Thanks Grampa!
I made it about 15 years ago when I made the little priming horn and the .32 loading block. :wink:

 

[xxgrampa]

greetings swc,

don't know how long you can leave the block charged. the longest mine have been in the block was about a week. they worked great.

..ttfn..grampa..

 

[xxgrampa]

hi ho 707

well, there will soon (i hope) be another in s ca. that is the best designed short starter i have ever seen. mine has a big ball on the end. there is no way it fits in a pocket or bag.

thanks again for the idea... :thumbsup:

..ttfn..grampa..

 

[Tater John]

Makes logical sense. Thanks. I should go drill some scrap wood :redface:

That is a fine starter fw707, speed blocks too

Rusty

 

[fw707]

Thanks everybody for the compliments!
I made 4 of the .40 caliber blocks and kept the 3 in the picture. I inlaid a German silver weeping heart in the end of the 4th one and gave it to a friend. :wink: