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Curtis Makamson

40 Cal.
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Take a few of those odds and ends of wood you keep saving because one day something will be made from them and rasp out some spoons. They don’t have to be fancy--just plain utilitarian type things. The rationale behind a wooden spoon is it is not likely to damage the tin lining in cups or other metallic containers.


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Curtis, other than sand paper and my thumb, is there an easier way to smooth the inside ?

Also, do you coat them with any thing before use?
 
That's a nice one. Sandpaper and 0000 steel wool is all I use.

I do not put anything on them. Down here on the Gulf Coast it is perpetually damp. If you lived in a drier area an application of something like mineral oil rubbed into them might be OK. However, you'd be better off getting an opinion about that from someone besides me.
 
I can't remember what the company is but they make something called Butcher Block Oil or something like that. If you want then I could go and dig it out later and let you know. I have used it on cutting boards and it is 100% food safe. I know most finishes are food safe but something like Danish oil and most other oils have to set for over a month for it to fully cure in order to be fully food-safe.

-Andrew
 
Quite a collection of woods there.....maple, padauk? Osage Orange? Olive?

Great spoons....one for every occasion
 
Blacksmith Andrew said:
I can't remember what the company is but they make something called Butcher Block Oil or something like that. If you want then I could go and dig it out later and let you know. I have used it on cutting boards and it is 100% food safe. I know most finishes are food safe but something like Danish oil and most other oils have to set for over a month for it to fully cure in order to be fully food-safe.

-Andrew

Wood Worker Supply has what they call salad bowl oil that would work. It's food safe, or mineral oil...
Bud
 
Take the piece of wood your spoon is hiding in and use it as a template by placing on a piece of paper. Draw the wood’s shape on this sheet of paper. Draw your spoon’s shape inside that rectangle you just drew on the paper. If you can fit a couple (or more) spoon shapes on there, have at it. Once happy with the drawing of the spoon shape, cut it out, place on the piece of wood, and use the cut out shape as a template. Draw a line around it. A marker is used so my less-than-wonderful eyesight can see it. Use whatever kind of saw you have to cut out the blank. A scroll saw works great. So would a band saw. A coping saw does OK but it takes more time. Once the spoon blank is cut out give some thought to how you want the handle to look. You might consider drawing the handle on the side of the spoon blank so you can see how much wood has to be removed. You might be able to remove some of the excess wood with a saw. An X-Acto knife will take off a surprising amount of wood. Rasp it down to where you start thinking more in terms of sanding than rasping. A gouge chisel is used to remove excess wood from the bowl. Once all of the excess wood has been chiseled out it is time to start sanding. A Dremel tool considerably speeds things up, but be advised it will also hasten your mistakes. (Don’t ask me how I know) Sand the thing down to the shape you like. If you don’t like it, toss it away, and start another. Hey, it was a piece of scrap to begin with. Once you have the spoon shape where you want it, work the thing over with 0000 steel wool and call it finished.

Tools needed: Scrap piece of wood, pencil, paper, scissors, felt tip marker, a saw capable of small radius turns, gouges, slip stone for sharpening, smallish rasp, X-Acto knife, X-Acto blades, sanding drums for Dremel tool, sanding block, sand paper, 0000 steel wool.
 
Nice spoons I have a friend of mine that does wood work with no power tools all by hand and he makes these also
 
There is a sealer called "The Good Stuff" made by Bally, whic is used foro sealing butcher blocks and other woodenware.

Bally claims it is water and alcohol resistant and food safe.
 

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