Staining curly maple

I'm getting closer to the final stages of my Jaeger build and I wish it to be quite dark without obscuring the stripes. Aqua fortis sounds interesting but I need more info as to the percent of the solution and can it be dark? Is there any over the counter store brand stain that would serve my purpose? Thanks in advance for any suggestions or shared experiences. All I have left to do is shape the wooden patchbox lid, finish shaping the fore stock and staining.

 

[quinnconner]

I like Dangler's golden-brown stain on my guns.It is alcohol based and they make a dark brown and also a red stain.I go dark on my curly maple stocks and then lighten it with steel wool.Aqua fortis kind of scares me.It can at times turn olive green on some pieces of maple and the fumes are nasty! A lot of guys love aqua fortis ,but I stay away from acid stains.I think that you can order dangler's thru muzzle-loader builder's supply ,and probably some other places like Dixie gun works.I like my rifles dark curled with honey golden stripes.
Juniata Jack

 

[musketman]

Look, CURLEY maple stained purple... :haha: :haha: :haha:

Nyuk nyuk nyuk...

 

[Stumpkiller]

When you was a young scarecrow you weren't out in some field while they were cropdusting by any chance, were you?

You is a pip!

 

[musketman]

I guess I should give a real answer after the CURLEY maple crack, I like apple stain for light hard woods...

It lets the grain jump out freely, I also like a cherry stain for a medium dark stain...

 

[TwoShadows]

Tip Curtis at Frontier Gun Shop (1-615-654-4445) says I use his "9010" formula on everything but my cornflakes.....I do like it. You can go light, or keep going over it with more for a real dark finish....and if you go too dark, it's easy to lighten it up with a bit of 4 ought steel wool. "Twas good to meet you at Manskers...wish we had more time to palaver.

 

[Randy]

Wahkon Bay mskes an Aqua Fortis solution you can buy from TOW. It works OK but the trick of this type stain is applying the heat evenly. If you dont get it heated enough it turns green and if it is heated too much it can get really dark and char the wood. I usually do mine over a single burner Coleman camp stove and keep the stock about 8 to 12 inches above the flame, and keep it slowly moving at all times to avoid charring. No mater how careful you are some areas get darker than others but you can even them out with 0000 steel wool as you applu the oil finish. you get a good contrast on the striping but there must be an easier way. I tried heating a halfstock in the oven to get it more even but it didn't all fit and came out about the same as the camp-stove method.
Did you see the guns on the cover of the last Muzzleblasts? I'd like to know what he used for stain and finish.

 

[Zonie]

I don't use the acid process as it is not only a hazard and requires neutralizing, but to get good results has a learning curve to it. In other words, there is an art to it, and like all art, if done improperly it can make a disaster (like black charred areas, green areas after a few years, etc.).

I have had excellent results using Birchwood Casey Walnut stain. It is available everywhere and doesn't cost a lot.

It is water base so each coat darkens the wood more but it will not cover up the grain or stripes. In fact it seems to increase the contrast between them. This allows you to apply multiple layers until it is as dark as you wish. Let each application dry before adding another coat of stain.

As for the water in it raising the grain, this has never been a problem for me. I wet the stock and dewhisker it 3 or 4 times before starting the actual staining process.
I would suggest that after 3 or 4 coats, take the stock outside in the sun and wet the wood with water to see what it is really going to look like when you oil it. If it is too light, add another coat.

Below is a Lancaster which I applied 4 coats of BC Walnut to. I could have made it darker but this was the color I wanted.

Below, is another with BC Walnut and some BC Maple stain. Notice that it doesn't cover the grain or stripes:

 

[bob1961]

heres what minwax gel stain #605 mahogany looks like....................bob

 

Aqua fourtis will give you dark..no problem,,the application turns maple green,,the heat turns it dark,,if your old enough ta "toast" a marshmellow and not "burn it quick and eat it", then you can use aqua foutis.If you can't make toast without burning it,, forget it!
Trouble is we cain't get it any more!! It's legal to have aqua fortis and ship it,,,but nobody or few have it anymore. The raw product "Nitric acid" is un-available because of "EPA" laws that kicked in,,toss in a little 911 problem we had a few years back and,,well,,,,
An even application of the 1 part nitric acid and 3 parts water solution aka;Aqua fortis is easy,,make the wood wet with the solution,,the maple will suck it right up,,don't worry overlaps won't hurt,,,,,
The really neat thing about that stain is it's after the 2nd year of application when it really starts to work,,grains deepen and mellow,, the beuty is brought out with age,
If ya got sum and want more tips PM or just ask here again,we'll help.

 

Moosket person; you really do smack of genius ya know.
:applause: :applause: :haha: :haha:

 

[Birddog6]

I prefer the Danglers stains. They are alcohol based & you can put it on light or heavy, lighten it & wash it out if ya wish leaving a dark stipe & light wood or leave it all dark. It is very forgiving when you lighten a place too much, just reapply & blend it in.

 

[sse]

I saw a beautiful trade gun with a curly maple stock. In the artisan's dark shop, the full length curl was barely visible underneath a fairly dark black walnut stain (at least that is what it reminded me of), not very brown at all, and the stripes teased their way through. (The barrel had a greyish black finish with little specks in it that matched the color of the stock very well.) The thing looked like it sat in a closet fer two hunnert years. Now, I'm a sucker for the reddish brown finishes similar to the beauty posted by zonie, but there was sure something special about that finish. If see the guy at the woods walk tomorrow, I'll ask him what he dun to it.

Regards, sse

 

sse,, post a photo of the "Swan" she's aqua fortis on maple,,the MD is travilin and can't answer,,but I know his style,,,,

Or you guys go up too Superflints photo post on the flintlock forum,,I'd give 10 to 1 thats af., on curly..

 

[Darkhorse]

I see nobodys mentioned my favorite stain for maple. Laurel Mountain Forge. LMF makes several different shades, plus a reducer.
I like the Lancaster Maple but I'm going to try the Honey Maple on the my next gun.
After raising the grain about 10 or 12 times, I wet it a final time but don't sand it. This leaves the pores open for the stain to penetrate a little deeper. LMF gives a very good contrast and after finishing the grain just pops out. Out in the sun it's like looking at sunrays going down into the water.

 

[sse]

Out in the sun it's like looking at sunrays going down into the water.

That's a good description of the look of the curl when finished well to enhance the look. I do get the same appearance with the A.F. finish on the rifle gun built by rollingb, as mentioned by thumbtacks. Can't stop lookin at it. That said, the darker look is an entirely different look that is special .

I also have to wonder whether the technique you guys use has a lot to do with the outcome, regardless (no, not "irregardless") of the substance. ??!!

Regards, sse

 

[Darkhorse]

SSE,
I think what you said is more important the type stain you use. I don't have time right now to give a blow by blow detail of my stock finishing but at the end, what probably really counted was this.
After the final raising and sanding of the grain, the stock was polished with steel wool, then vacumed with a soft brush to remove any steel fibers. Then the stock was burnished with both a sanding cloth (looks like a scouring pad) and a clean wool sock. This was done until heat built up and brought the curl back up clear and unmuddied, over the entire stock. Then it was wet once more to raise or open the grain. After it dried (I did check for whiskers) it was then stained. Light sanded with 400 and stained again. Then allowed to dry overnight before starting the finish. Which was handrubbed Jim Chambers Original Oil finish.
It was acutally pretty simple to do and the results I have are exactly what I wanted to get.
So far everybody who has seen it babbles about the wood. But they haven't really seen anything. Later on, I am going up to Tip Curtis's Frontier Shop to pick out some components and wood for my next rifle. He asked me to bring the Haines when I come. I guess I'll find out then how good it really looks.

 

[djnye]

darkhorse sir: i couldn't agree more. the individual particular steps may vary, but the concept of scupulous suface preparation is the real "secret" of quality finishes. long ago when we were making furniture, 50% of the work and expense was in surface prep and finishing. i work with maple(i live in birdseye country) all the time and what lies right at the surface waiting to be revealed is often breathtaking. just needs a little TLC and elbow grease bring it to light.

take care, daniel

 

I used Min-wax water based American Walnut, three applications. The color turned out just right! Thanks for all the advice folks.