Starter Kit

[Spot Shooter]

Feller's,

I'm new at the none sabot MZloadin' deal, and going to need to know what I should be carry'n around. I use to haul them pyrodox pellets in plastic containers with sabot's n' barnes MZ's tother end of them tubes. Well, I solt the lot of thet line, and all my piece parts.

Now I'm gettin ready to make a GPR, and already order'd me a set of RB molds.

So here's my question, What is best fer carry'n around thet loss BP, and them Heavy 54 call ball's of mine. I'm guess'n a altoids can will work ok fer them patches, but the rest is got me jigger'd up. Give me some tip's so I don't spend to much figur'n out what works best.

Thanks,
Spot

 

[Stumpkiller]

To start, get yourself a canvas army surplus haversack - $4.95 or so from places like Sportsman's Guide or Cheaper Than Dirt. When you figger out what you like and need you gan get a 'real' leather hunting pouch. A horn is for carryin powder, but a flask works just as well. You'll need some type of powder measure. A half a turkey thigh bone, empty brass cartridge, hollowed antler tip, etc. Start at one grain of powder for every 'caliber' of ball iffen you're not sure. An adjustable measure ain't to 'spensive and lets you adjust your load. Again, once you're happy you can make a fixed measure. A capper makes loadin easier but ain't manditory. You'll need some patching material. I just got 4 yards or cotton pillow tick (0.018" thick) at JoAnn's Fabrics (take yer wife for cover) for $3.99 per yard (32" wide). Can't beat that with a stick. Then, you'll need a patch lube: like spit, Crisco, mink oil, or one of the prepared products (I really like Bore Butter Natural Lube 1000 +).

You'll also need a cleaning jag to fit your ramrod to run cleaning patches down (and if you trap one edge under the jag when screwing it down you can even be assured of getting them back out the barrel). Better toss in a patch worm jusi in case. A ball puller ain't a bad idea, neither. One of those things you never need if you have; but leave it home and watch out (can be used to fish out a lost patch iffen you didn't get a worm). A spare nipple or two (if it's percussion) or spare flints iffen it's a real gun.

A short starter is worth carryin, to get the ball set without riskin a split ramrod.

As you get goin you can add or swap out niceties like patch knives and bullet blocks (pre-patched & lubed balls in a wood block - near as fast as them pellets and sabots in a speed loader). Vent picks, nipple wrench, mainspring clamps, screwdriver(s), grease/lube tins, ball bags, tool pouches, wedge pullers, patch worms, pan brushes, priming horns . . . Better get a second possibles bag while yer at it - ya got quite a load there.

Then, as you progress, you begin to leave more and more at home and carry only the barest essentials. That's all part of the journey.

And don't let the sun set on a dirty gun.

 

[hardykev]

Your GPR kit will come with the jag.

It isn't a great one (kind of short), but certainly works in a pinch.

 

[Spot Shooter]

Stumpkiller,

Who, didn't think of some of those! Thanks, I knew the capper, some type of measure, but I had no idea for the rest.

Hey, what part of Upstate NY r you from? I grew up around Lockport, NY. Being hunting at our camp every few years near Olean, NY. Also spent a few year's stomping around Buck's Hill North of Rome, NY while I were in the Air Force.

Thanks again,
Spot

 

[Stumpkiller]

Binghamton area (Chenango Bridge). Used to have relatives near Rome. I can remember watching the B-52's take off and land. I still love airplanes (I fly the little ones - R/C).

Here's a few more tips seein as you is a Upstater. Keep a 8" x 3/4" strap of leather in the bottom of your bag. If yor ramrod gets stuck (it will eventually) you can wrap it tightly around the exposed end for a lot better grip. If that fails, break off two hot-dog sized sticks and grip them tightly with one on either side of the ramrod. Uses all your hand muscles instead of just the fingers.

Pop off two caps before loading your gun for the first time on an outing to clear the nipple and blow any oil out of the ignition chamber.

Pick up a few shot patches (look about 15 feet in front of your muzzle) and inspect them. If burned, use more lube. If torn, use a thicker patch. You should be able to hold them up to the sky and not see any light showing through holes or worn spots.

 

[tommy b]

Originally posted by Stumpkiller:

"Pop off two caps before loading your gun for the first time on an outing to clear the nipple and blow any oil out of the ignition chamber."

I like to point the muzzle down close to the ground when I do this. Then I can see blades of grass move when I pull the trigger and be 100% sure that the ignition chamber is clear.

 

[musketman]

If it's a flintlock:
You will need a small brass "hammer" to knapp the flint sharp, a square piece of brass stock will do nicely... You want brass or a non-sparking metal for this...

A priming horn, unless you prime with the same powder that you do the main charge with...
I use a small copper .31 caliber pistol flask...

A screwdriver to change flints, you can have one made to look old...

A patch knife, if you plan on cutting patches at the barrel... (both flint & percussion muzzleloaders)

A flap of water-proofed leather to cover the pan and frizzen... It might rain and snow when your out hunting...

The list keeps getting larger...

 

[Stumpkiller]

Ya know. I've seen these little brass hammers hereabouts, but I've never actually seen anyone use one. I'm pretty sure I couldn't. Kit Ravenshear showed me the fastest way to freshen a flint 'in the heat of battle.' Tip the frizzen forward, lower the cock, tip the frizzen back so it rests on the flint, pull back the cock until just the smallest edge is still under the edge of the frizzen and then push the frizzen down hard with your thumb. The flint fractures along the leading edge right along the base of the frizzen - also giving just the right geometry to hit the flint squarely. The trick with this is to have the tiniest amount of flint under the edge of the frizzen as possible. For larger jobs I use the back of my knife, or else one of the stepped rod tools (that I rap with the flat of a knife).

I can't hit the head of a 4D nail better than about 50/50 with a big 'ol hammer. Sure not capable of striking a 1/64" edge off a flint with a teeny weeny one.

 

[Spot Shooter]

Feller's,

Good deal on how to read a used patch. I'm still wonder'n bout the pillow tick stuff. I ain't never cut a patch, and am a bit worried about loose ends. I'm guessin' a thread that's able to peel itself away could be real trouble.

Think I'll get me some leather, 'stead of carry'n hot dog bum's around. Least them dern red squirrels won't be try'n to pull out of my pocket 'lest I take a nap.

So powder horn's fer fueling the pan, I was wondering a bit about that one also. Sounds like I get myself a pouch and put most the stuff in their along with carry'n a cap holder & maybe somethin' for a pre-measured charge of powder.

Thanks!
Spot

Stumpkiller - Yout Betchya, them 52's will shake you out of bed. I use to live at the end of Griffiss for a while, right under the east side of the runway. Everyonce and a while they'd do one of those readiness thingy's and launch'em as fast as the could. Low, Loud, and a bunch of them use to come over so close it weren't funny.

 

[RJR]

How I hated those midnight scrambles in SAC.

 

[chickenlittle]

Spot Shooter,

If you hunt near Olean, I hope you guys get to visit the Beef 'N Barrel. Decent beef on wick and a must experience for that area. I got out there a few when I went to college at nearby Alfred U.

 

[hardykev]

quote:Originally posted by tommy b:

Originally posted by Stumpkiller:

"Pop off two caps before loading your gun for the first time on an outing to clear the nipple and blow any oil out of the ignition chamber."

I like to point the muzzle down close to the ground when I do this. Then I can see blades of grass move when I pull the trigger and be 100% sure that the ignition chamber is clear.

A better reason might be that you have no idea if it is loaded. A friend, who has been shooting since he was a teenager with his dad, had stored a pistol for years after a last scout camp while he went to school. After getting married, he went to unpack weapons. While popping a few caps to clear the weapon he went to the garden and pointed at the ground. What he didn't count on was the weapon firing a ball into the ground.

4 rules of safe firearm handling:

1. All guns are always loaded. Even if they are not, treat them as if they are.
2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. (For those who insist that this particular gun is unloaded, see Rule 1.)
3. Keep your finger off the trigger till your sights are on the target. This is the Golden Rule. Its violation is directly responsible for about 60 percent of inadvertent discharges.
4. Identify your target, and what is behind it. Never shoot at anything that you have not positively identified.

 

[chickenlittle]

quote: A better reason might be that you have no idea if it is loaded. Well, if you think an ML is loaded, setting it off might not be the best idea. Who knows what powder and bullet it might be down there? Better to be safe, soak the powder and pull the bullet.