starting to muzzleload

[cooksomerice]

All

I went on line to the possible shop and bought the percussion starter kit. Then I came across a .50 cal gun that I could afford. It has a 1:48 twist, and I plan to shoot PRB only. I know that ideally, a slower rate of twist would be better, but this is what I have. My question is this, where do I begin working up a load? How many times can I shoot before cleaning? I don't want a dirty barrel to skew my load/shooting results.

Thanks.

 

[MikeChapin]

A 1:48 twist will shoot round ball fine if you work up the right load. The faster twist is a little more finiky about load than a slower twist barrel is all.

With a brand new barrel you want to clean out the preservative with break cleaner. Once the preservative is cleaned out use a synthetic oil or Ballistol to protect the barrel.

A good starting load would be 50 grains and move up and down to see which load the rifle likes best. How many shots you get depends on a lot of things. If you use an oily lube like olive oil or straight Ballistol you will get less shots before needing to clean than you would with a water based lube such as Hoppe's, moose milk or spit. I use spit and usually can shoot all day without cleaning.

 

[longcruise]

My question is this, where do I begin working up a load? How many times can I shoot before cleaning? I don't want a dirty barrel to skew my load/shooting results.

Do like mike2005 said and you are on the right track.

On the matter of how many shots can be made without "cleaning". Starting out you should focus on wiping the bore after each shot with a damp patch. Not too wet. You will get the feel for how wet/damp after a bit of shooting. Just run the damp patch down the bore and work the breach end up and down a few times then pull it out. If you go too wet with the wiping patch you will have to follow with a dry patch. A 1.5" square cotton patch with five or six drops of water dripped in the middle will work about right.

Your wiping and cleaning patches should be soft cotton like flannel. An old flannel shirt will get you started. Wal Mart sells a cotton flannel like material that is perfect and inexpensive.

Your shooting patch should be a tough tight weave cotton like pillow ticking. That's at Wally's too. A light coat of Crisco will get you started for patch lube. It's cheap and it works. Plenty of time to get more exotic later, if ever!

Don't confuse cleaning with wiping. Wiping is a removing fouling from the bore between shots. Cleaning is done at the end of the shooting session and is a thorough removal of all fouling. Wiping between shots cleans it up enough to make loading easier and consistent.

Now, I'll tell you, there are types of patch lubes that you can use that will eliminate wiping between shots. Leave that learning curve for later! Now is not the time to go on the hunt for the perfect lube, patch, etc. Just learn how to load and get a feel for your rifle.

Good luck with the new gun.

 

[jethro224]

You've gotten some good advice here. :thumbsup:

Are you planning to use the rifle for hunting or only for target shooting? Your best hunting load will PROBABLY be somewhere between 70-90 grains. You might find a good target load using quite a bit less powder.

Have fun and be safe. :hatsoff:

 

[cooksomerice]

I plan on using the gun ultimately for hunting purposes. I want to find an accurate load with enough punch to make a clean kill. I have never shot this type of weapon before. My primary weapon now is an osage selfbow and 605 grain arrow. This will be quite a learning experience. I would like to shorten the curve enough to be in the field by January for the remainder of the season. Thanks to everyone that has replied.

 

[Little Wattsy]

You've gotten some good advice here. :thumbsup:

Are you planning to use the rifle for hunting or only for target shooting? Your best hunting load will PROBABLY be somewhere between 70-90 grains. You might find a good target load using quite a bit less powder.

Have fun and be safe. :hatsoff:

DITTO.... :thumbsup:

 

[ohio ramrod]

For starters on a 50 cal just start out at fifties. Fifty grain FFF, will give effective killing energy at 50 yds and beyound From there you can play around to get the best grouping. Fifties are good on deer out to 100yds with reasonable powder charges. I am a firm believer that it isn't how hard you hit them , but where you hit them.Get the most accurate load then shoot into some heavy boards at various ranges until you find the maximum range your load still hits hard enough to satisfy you. The fifty yds and fifty grains will give you a good comparison.

 

[Zonie]

I agree that 50 grains of FFg, FFFg or Pyrodex RS or Pyrodex P (if the gun is percussion and Pyrodex is all you can find) would be a good starting place.

For hunting, using a patched .490 or .495 diameter roundball most folks find that 70-80 grains gives about the best accuracy and it's power is enough for a good clean kill out to 100 yards or so.

As the others said, accuracy is the most important thing when hunting and your being a bow hunter tells me you have the skills to get within range.

Good luck to you and if you have any more questions feel free to ask them.

 

[David Ratusnik]

Cooks-- 50/55 grains (777) works fine for targets at the range. Saves a few dollars. I shoot 50 cal as well. .02 David

 

[jethro224]

I plan on using the gun ultimately for hunting purposes. I want to find an accurate load with enough punch to make a clean kill. I have never shot this type of weapon before. My primary weapon now is an osage selfbow and 605 grain arrow. This will be quite a learning experience. I would like to shorten the curve enough to be in the field by January for the remainder of the season. Thanks to everyone that has replied.

You've shortened the curve considerably by finding this forum! Welcome aboard. :hatsoff:
The members here, between them, know just about everything there is to know about muzzleloaders.
Just ask 'em.

Think of muzzleloader hunting just like you do bowhunting and you'll do well. Shot placement and angle are everything. Poke 'em thru the lungs. :thumbsup: You just get to do it from a bit farther away.

Be warned tho; Blackpowder is just as addictive as archery.

 

[ncswift]

Rice, these gentleman wont steer you wrong, they certainly know what they are talking about. Good luck and enjoy your new rifle. :thumbsup:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I plan on using the gun ultimately for hunting purposes. I want to find an accurate load with enough punch to make a clean kill. I have never shot this type of weapon before. My primary weapon now is an osage selfbow and 605 grain arrow. This will be quite a learning experience. I would like to shorten the curve enough to be in the field by January for the remainder of the season. Thanks to everyone that has replied.

Good on you. I hunt with a recurve and cedar arrows and that makes my percussion and flintlocks seem like miracle death machines. :haha:

In my .50 percussion I use 85 gr of FFg behind a .490" patched round ball (0.018" patch). This has dropped whitetail deer in their tracks and is usually a full pass-through. But if you consider the m/l rifle as a bow with 3X the range, possibly a little more, and almost unlimited ability to hold "at draw" and hunt accordingly you will be well pleased and satisfied.

Personally I would try to keep the powder over 75 gr of FFg or slightly less if FFFg just to keep the energy up. What works in ideal conditions may not be good enough when the angels pee in your powder . . . as the saying goes. A twig, the deer takes a step, you twitch, etc. Good to have a little margin for error.

 

[Backwoods]

Welcome to the Forum fellow Texan, bow hunter and now Muzzle stuffer. I still hunt with the Long Bow and cedar arrows and enjoy my muzzle-loader just as much.

These guys know there stuff, and with the use of the search function, there is loads of knowledge that has been covered in the past. Enjoy yourself, and keep us posted. PS (we like pictures.) :thumbsup: