steel shot info. needed

[beartrap]

I have a .54 smoothbore and want to hunt grouse but all we are allowed is steel shot, is it possible to use this in a smoothbore? if so, how? I am worried it would "clog-up" in the barrel and possibly split or bulge the barrel. how do you fellows use steel shot? up here in northern B.C. it is very hard to find any flintlock shooters, you guys are the only way I can aquire any knowledge. would anyone know where to get any shot in canada?

 

[Rebel]

The only way i know to SAFELY shoot steel shot in a muzzleloader is to use a heavy plastic Steel Shotcup, and i don't think you will find one of those small enough for a .54 cal. You may have to find a .20 or .12 ga to use. But it is a reason to buy another gun. ::

 

[ffffg]

steel could score the barrel.. a shot cup of that small of diameter would make the .54 even smaller.. and it wouldnt take much fouling coupled with plastic crud in the bore to spike pressures and ruin patterns after several shots.. .. call the authorities and make sure you cant use bismuth?? it is non toxic, and if not leagle it should be.. they may be trying to force shooters into something they can test for with a magnet, which is intrusive by US standards.. hopefully your mistaken and can use bismuth.. you could use heavy paper like a index card for a shot cup, but the shot column would very very long and the cup would be very thick and you would have trouble with the cup turning rather than opening when it exsits the muzzel.. some would turn, some would open and pattern fine, and some would not open.. dave..

 

bismuth as far as i know is legal in Canada. Unless your provincial DNR has some other local bylaw against it . Check with them.

 

Hi , did some digging on the internet for you . In the BC Hunting Regulations it states lead shot banned for wetland and migratory birds . Specificaly says thatit is not banned for grouse and several other woodland game birds . If you get the chance check with your local DNR Ranger or grab the Regulations .
Hope this helps ... Good luck
:redthumb:

 

[DanL]

Newhouse,

Do a search on paper shotcups. Mr. Roundball introduced this method to me a while back. It works great for me in a .62 smoothie and extends the range of the shot.

The paper used is a "post it" note. In my experience the paper holds up fine between the shot and the barrel.

Good luck.

 

[musketman]

Newhouse,

Do a search on paper shotcups. Mr. Roundball introduced this method to me a while back. It works great for me in a .62 smoothie and extends the range of the shot.

Here is that thread on paper shot cups...

Paper Shot Cups <--- click here

 

[Rebel]

I think that the paper shotcups would work fine for lead or Bismuth shot, but are not safe to use with Steel shot. That is why the plastic shotcups for steel shot are so much thicker and heavier duty than the ones for lead shot. I would check with your local wildlife office and see if it isn't just required for waterfowl and not for upland birds. That is how it is here unless you hunt upland birds on a Federal Wildlife refuge. Then you have to use steel shot for everything. :m2c:

 

[musketman]

What if you used a thicker paper shot cup (like parchment) with buffer (like corn meal) between the steel shot? :hmm:

 

[musketman]

OK, here is the bogus answer you have long been waiting for, maybe not...

Positively magnetize the barrel and negatively magnetize the steel shot, the electromagnetic repulsion forces between the barrel and shot will keep the two from touching...

Simple, right?

 

Newhouse,
here in Alberta, lead is fine for upland game (provincial regulation). As previously mentioned, lead is only banned for migratory birds (federal regulations). IMHO the only viable alternatives for lead in a ML is Bismuth and gold as they both have similar density/weight to lead and are soft like lead. However, I find the price of either to be unreasonable for shooting a stinkin' goose so I quit hunting migratory birds and only shoot what I can legally shoot with lead (upland and clays). BTW where abouts in BC are you???

Cody

 

Positively magnetize the barrel and negatively magnetize the steel shot, the electromagnetic repulsion forces between the barrel and shot will keep the two from touching...

Simple, right?

Actually, opposites attract. You would have to either positively charge both or negatively charge both. Hey, you never know, they propell trains the same way.

 

[musketman]

You are right, just trying to throw you smart readers off...

Either both positively charge or negatively charge...

Good catch... :thumbsup:

 

[dgold]

I too live in an isolated part of N.W Saskatchewan. I have bought bismuth shot from http://www.bilozir.net/Bismuth%20index.htm This guy gets on your order quick and sends it by mail. I have shot bismuth out of my 12 g. and also for uplands from an Enfield Muskatoon in .58 cal. works quite well, but the shotgun is better. Bilozir has access to all the materials from Ballistics products which have an amazing range of materials. I think you have to ask quite a bit in advance for some of the less common stuff. He seems to always have bismuth on hand though and ships through the mail.

 

dgold,
How much does he charge for bismuth?? The last (only) time I priced it out was in Edmonton and it was something like $120 for a 7 pound bottle. That's like $1 per oz. so that's $1.25 per shot plus powder. With my success rate on game with a shotgun it's about $20 per goose Where is sask are you from??

Cody

 

[Rebel]

It is $84.95+shipping through Ballistic Products.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/1products/components/shot/bismuth/bismuthshot.htm

 

[dgold]

$120 sounds about right, and compares, considering the difference in the Cd and USd. Your shot success looks better than mine! Its expensive. I am looking forward to someone providing tungsten matrix for reloading and muzzleloading, that stuff is impressive in a breech gun.

 

[16gauge]

Some places that are managed for waterfowl (but have other hunting opportunities available) require the use of nontoxic shot for ALL species....this includes small game such as rabbit, pheasant, woodcock, ect.

Steel shot is a no-no in a traditional muzzleloader unless you intend to use a plastic shot cup designed for steel shot (heavy paper, ect wont do). Cabela's had some double barrel shotguns that were steel shot safe for sale a few years back.....HOWEVER, I have found through a lot of trial and error and personal experience that steel shot will kill ducks, but only if the velocities are quite high....1350-1500 fps. I don't think that this is obtainable with black powder from a traditional firearm.

Bismuth and Tungsten-matrix (NOT tungesten-iron, which is as hard as steel) are the two materials that would be muzzleloader safe. Tungsten-matrix is not available as a reloading component in this country, so that leaves only Bismuth as a useful shot source for a nontoxic muzzleloading hunt. Prices for bismuth are high, but if you consider the number of shots you will be taking, it is still a viable alternative. I have found that in the smaller gauges of conventional arms (16 & 20 gauge), bismuth performs better than steel.
FWIW.

 

[Rebel]

I have used #1 steel shot in my Navy Arms double for years with the special plastic steel shotcups. There is no sign of wear in the bores. I have killed a lot of ducks and a number of Canada Geese with it. Steel shot will work ok out of a ML'er, you just have to limit your range a bit.

 

[16gauge]

Steel shot will work ok out of a ML'er, you just have to limit your range a bit.

Yes, steel shot from a muzzleloader will work with this caveat, was will steel shot from smaller gauge modern shotguns. However, I still feel that all things being equal, bismuth is better and worth the extra cost.
FWIW