Steel Trigger Guards

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I am trying to fit a steel trigger guard to a rifle which needs some bending. I have tried cold bending with little success. I have little experience working with metals using heat. I do have a propane torch however. I would appreciate your suggestions and comments.

Bunky
 
If you're referring to the hand-held propane torch with the screw-on head, like you buy at the hardware store, go back to the hardware store and buy a similar-sized canister of MAPP gas. Most of them will be bright yellow. MAPP gas generates a lot more heat than propane and will get most areas of your guard almost white-hot in seconds.

A word of caution: if you're using good-quality wax castings, that's fine, but cheap wrought iron or pot metal, both of which get used occasionally for guards and buttplates (though none available from reputable suppliers, that I know of), just snap when you heat and try to bend them.

Take a few moments to visualize how you want the guard to bend, and where, before applying heat. Even the best-quality parts will eventually break if subjected to too many bendings. Try not to heat the area you're bending any more than you have to. Keep the torch moving, at least slightly, rather than holding it on one point, if at all possible. Don't put a lot of force into trying to bend the steel -- when it's heated sufficiently, it'll give pretty easily, and if you're already muscling down on it you're liable to bend it way, way past the point you want. Better to bend gently, a little at a time, until it's right, than go overboard. It's the back-and-forth flexing that will break the metal the quickest.
 
I have never had to heat a trigger guard to bend it. I use a vise and the round hole in the end of a big crescent wrench as the lever. This gives me pretty good control of where the bend is to be made and has worked well for me. You just have to pad with leather if the piece has been final finished because you will get little nicks along the edges that are a pain to remove.

Also, you do not want to bend more times than you absolutely need to as cold bending has some risk of breaking and this increases with every bend.

CS
 
Propane should work, MAPP will work better.

Decide where you want the bend to occure remembering that you probably don't want something that looks like it has been bent.

If you apply the heat in one little area, that is the only place it will bend so I would suggest that you try to heat an area at least 2 inches long.

When heating, hold the torch so that the bright blue flame is just about reaching the parts surface, but it is not touching the part.
Move the torch back and forth and heat from both sides if possible.

You will want the area of the part where you want the bend to be bright red but not orange red (too hot). It is best to do this heating in a darkend area so you can see the colors. Bright light makes it very difficult to judge how hot the part really is.

As was said, it won't take a lot of pressure to cause the part to bend and you don't want to bend it too far.

When the bend is made, let the part air cool back to room temperature. Do not spray water on it or drop it into a pot of water.
Water or oil cooling (quenching) the part will often cause the part to bend in unpredictable ways.
 
Mongrel,Crackstock and Zonie...Thanks for the great advice...I have printed your suggestions and will add them to my resource files...how lucky we are to have folks like you around to help us "Pilgrams"...Thanks again!!!

Bunky
 

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