Stock finish help...??ish to a new walnut stock

[Brad Foust]

Friends,
About ready to apply a finish to a newly built walnut rifle stock.
It has been 25 years since I last built a rifle and frankly, dont remember exactly how I finished them.
I do not want a high build "cheap shoe shine" if you know what I mean? Yet I do need durability.
I remember something about thinning a coat or two of true oil?? Then maybe building up a few coats of bolied linseed oil?
Anyone know how I can get a tough finish, yet not a high build shine look??
I want something like the finish on a new Pedersoli Bess if you are familiar??
Thanks in advance,
Bigmon

 

[gunmaker43]

I use 1st a good wood sealer for walnut, then 4-5 coats of BLO-24 hr. between each one buffed hard with my palm. Then 5-6 coats tung oil semi-gloss. Rub it with 0000 steel wool if to shiney....Wait week or so and wax with a good gun wax.....Tom

 

[B.Habermehl]

I use Formbys tung oil finish, slather as much on in the first coat as the wood will take keeping the finish wet all over. Then allow the finish to get a bit tacky. Scrub all the finish from the surface with a cotton sock. This will squish lots of semi solid finish into the pores of the wood, filling the grain with no buildup. Let the stock dry for a day or so, then repeat, as necessary. Finally the last couple coats are rubbed on by hand in the classic manner a drop rubbed in and stretched as far as it will go. BJH

 

[kaintuck]

easy-peasy....

i use regular spar varnish from wal-mart.....apply very sparingly....slow thin coats....about 3 will make a nice satin finish,that fills those walnut valleys!!!
NOT polyurathaine....SPAR varnish~ there's a difference!
:grin:

marc n tomtom

 

[Brad Foust]

ok guys, sounding interesting.
Thanks, and I'll see if I gets any more??
Thanks

 

[Billnpatti]

My personal preference is either Tru Oil or Lynspeed (not sure if I spelled them correctly). I apply several very light coats, rubbing the finish in with my finger tips. I allow each coat to dry for 24 hours and then go over the stock with 0000 steel wool to smooth it and knock down the shine. After about 7 to 10 coats, you will need to let it cure for a few days. Then buff it with 0000 steel wool to give it a nice soft finish. After several more days, give it a couple of light coats of paste floor wax. Buff between coats and you will have a very nice looking and hard wearing finish.

 

[Dave Marsh]

I really like Chambers oil and especially on walnut. My humble opinion.

Dave

 

[ohio ramrod]

For a walnut stock I would start with walnut oil (available through woodworkers supply). And then finish with several coats of thinned marine varnish rubbed on.Good finishes take time. :idunno:

 

[paulab]

I just finished a Chambers New England fowler last week. Instead of tru-oil, I used Min-wax clear satin polyurethane.....10 coats, hand rubbed each coat. I didn't have to de-whisker the stock before the first coat. No grain raised at all. Hand rubbing filled in the pretty large pores of the wood. After 10 coats, buffing with 0000 steel wool between coats, they were completely sealed. The finish dries pretty fast. I could get 3 coats a day, unlike tru-oil which allowed only one coat a day. The finish is a hard dull satin which is very pleasing. I could rub with 0000 steel wool to dull it down even more then apply a good wax, but honestly was pleased to leave it as-is. Clear satin Min-wax will be my go-to finish from now on. [And no, I don't own stock in Min-wax.] :haha:

 

[Billnpatti]

Lots of great finishing materials mentioned here. Some I have used and some I haven't. The secret to getting a great durable stock finish obviously lies in applying several coats of the finish by hand and rubbing it in then buffing with steel wool between coats. Finally finish with buffing with 0000 steel wool to the shine (or lack thereof) and finishing with a couple of coats of paste floor wax.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Just finished a walnut stock. Not an expert but found a combination I really liked.

I started out with a bunch of coats of Birchwood Casey walnut sealer to fill the pores completely. Next I sanded the sealer back to bare wood and applied 4 coats of Chambers oil finish with a little scotch bright pad work between coats.

I love the way it came out.

 

[Dean2]

Like Billnpatti my vote is Tru-oil and Lindspeed but the write up on Min-wax has me thinking I might give that a try on my next one. The shorter drying time would be a big advantage on guns I am doing for someone else.

 

[GunnyGene]

Many good finishes recommended here, but I would advise against using 0000 steel wool-especially the cheap stuff from the local hardware store. It will break off in tiny pieces that will become embedded in the finish and result in rust spots.

If you must use a wool use a quality bronze/brass wool. Alternately a plastic 3M kitchen scrub pad will work well. I'd also recommend Renaissance wax as the final coat.

 

[Joshsimonswvu]

I like to saturate stock with BLO for an hour or so. Then wipe excess off checking back every 20 minutes or so. After it dries, I wet sand with 220 and BLO and make a sanding slurry to fill pores. Lightly wipe off excess. Keep doing this with finer grits until it to desired sheen. Allowing to dry between applications. Then apply BLO once day for a week, once a week for a month. I used paste wax but may try a bees wax blend at some point. If your careful to fill end grain it looks good.

 

[Billnpatti]

Looks great! Just can't argue with success. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[kodiakmarine]

I like to sand and polish to a smooth surface, then add 6-7 coats of BLO, hand rubbing each one quickly, until the wood feels hot. Let it dry for for a few days, then polish and finish with gun stock wax. It sounds to me that any of these methods will work, but each one will give a slightly different finish. Pick the one that sounds best to you. If you don't like the look, you can sand it off and try another method. Good luck. - John