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bub524

40 Cal.
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This has probably been beat to death here and elsewhere, but....whats your favorite stock finish?
Many years ago my great grandad, who did the fine woodwork in rail coaches for Chicago Northwestern, told me never use Boiled linseed oil on anything somebody is going to touch. He said it may look nice at first, but over the years it will get gummy. I've seen a lot of antique furniture with years of linseed oil that you can just scrape with a stick.
He always recommended "a good boat varnish".
Whats your favorite?
 
Bub, I have tried several different approaches over the years, but am not entirely there yet.

Permalyn is a great tough finish, as is True-Oil. I have had very good success with tung-oil finishes over the years and like the look better than True-Oil, which starts to look "modern" as it is so clear and shiny. I have cut it back with pumice but have not figured out how to get it "right" for the "well used, well maintained gun look".

Your friend is correct in that a good boat varnish is a good choice. The only reason gunmakers don't use it more is it doesn't come in a little can with the same price as the gallon, labeled as "boat varnish". Many of the gun finishes available today are primarily re-packaged varnishes.
 
I considered asking this same question a few days ago; did a search and didn't come up with much. I tried Permalyn last year; seemed to dry before it could be rubbed in well and way too shiney. Tried Tru-oil, doesn't rub in well and too much shine also. Have tried rubbing down with rotten stone and always end up going down to wood or with a bazillion tiny scratches.
Boiled linseed oil has worked well for me. Just keep rubbing it in a few drops at a time over a period of time until the wood starts to develop a velvety smoothness. Doesn't dry too fast; doesn't tend to "ball" up while rubbing it in. Does develop too much shine for me after lots of applications. Doesn't like deet insect repellants.
The perfect finish to me would be a polyurethane that rubs in like linseed oil and dries to a tough, impervious, non-shiney satin finish. So far I ain't found it.
 
Has anyone tried using tongue oil? I have used that on everything from stocks to native flutes and have always been happy with the results.

Thoughts?
 
I've tried several different finishes over the years and a lot depends on the type of finish you are trying to get, if you want a truly traditional finish as used on golden age longrifles, than you should hop over to the www.americanlongrifle.com where there are many excellent discussions in archived form on making authentic, lead based, varnishes.

I have never done this, though it is tempting, I instead choose True Oil when I want a somewhat shiny finish, I can knock it down to satin by rubbing it, or keep it glossy which actually is probably the more authentic route for higher end American arms, however, many original American rifles were finished with linseed oil and beeswax which gave a very dull, but serviciable finish.

My favorite finish by far for Walnut is Pilkingtons, used exactly as described it is a very easy to use finish and yields a true london oil finish with the finish in the wood rather than built up on the surface and the pores are either partially or completely filled, depending on your tastes, it works on maple too, just maple doesn't have a lot of grain to fill so it goes faster, it can also be built up like Tru Oil, but it's a lot more expensive.
 
I'm curious, has anybody tried french polish( linseed oil and shellac ) as a gunstock finish? Other things I've tried are tru-oil mixed with linseed oil, seems to speed up the drying time and doesn't pull when you go over it trying to smooth and even out your coat like tru-oil does.Ive also added japan dryers to linseed oil, that helped alittle.
 
For maple, hot bee's wax is the answer for me. For walnut.....haven't found one I like yet but have lots to try.

Cody
 
I like to use Aqua Fortis followed by hot linseed oil and beeswax. I mix the oil and wax until when cool the wax is just slushy, I put it on hot and then rub with the heel of my hand until it rubs in. If you put it on cold, rub it in until it is too hot to touch.

It puts the finish in the wood, not on top, and leaves a satiny finish.

B
 
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