stock finish

[2158]

being new to the site and reading all the posts,i noticed
every thing from shaping, sanding,and staining so here's
my two cents. first starting out i used boiled linseed.
stuff today not like the old days.worked good but not against mother nature. so i tried tru-oil finish,too thick.
so i tried thining, just didn't work for me. also to shiney
the polyuratane finish too dull and cloudy. so after all
that looking through books mags. etc. i noticed a lot of
well known makers guns had what i was looking for. so i
asked one. and they told me. to my surprise most used their
own special blends of chemicals. too much for me!!!
but a lot used jim chambers oil/varnish. so i called him
he sent me a can and i used it how he told me to. best stuff
out there.the process is sand stock to 400grit,dust with
steel wool washed in alcohol to remove oil,stain to your
likeness,than seal with birchwood casey sealer slightly
warmed,light sand, then heavy coat of jims finish till
stock won't take any more. brush out carving and dry extra
with lint free rag. after completly dry hand rub no less
than 5 coats. let dry few days wipe down with hoppies gun
oil. i dont use gun wax, if you get a sratch you just hand
rub on a extra coat and oil. works great and looks correct.
not to mention beter against elements of nature. let me know
what you think thanks, wpalongrifle

 

Good timing on the post. This morning I applied a coat of Min-Wax clear satin polyurathane to my Jaeger stock. I've used it before on muzzle loaders and I like the look of being well oiled but not glossy plus it is low maintanence. I look around at hundreds of guns at events (Manskers Station was awesome by the way, I met Two Shadows and he's a fine fellow) and ask hundreds of questions and I find the polyurathane to be the ticket for me. I've read that many gunbuilders of old used varnish because they didn't have the time to hand rub numerous applications of oils and the varnish protected the wood. In my opinion polyurathane protects better than oil. I may be in the minority on this as polyurathane sure as heck isn't authentic.

 

[lonewolf5347]

I have redone stocks over the years using tru-oil and the results was excellent.I did refinish a stock last year using
Formby's tung Oil for the first time and have to say the stock came out super mint.

 

I used Min-wax on my tent/canopy poles and rails,only because I know the stuff seals well and takes a beatin. Very durable and withstands weather harships long and well,,I got over $200 in oak rail invested here!
When it comes to guns though I kinda like stickin with the olde tymie kinda finish,,but that's just me,,I guess what each shooter likes is whats best for him,,,,,,,

 

[djnye]

just a few random thoughts triggered by these posts concerning finishes.

when we talk about protection, besides dust, dirt, abrasion, light, etc., and water resistance; keep in mind that if a finish has good resistance to water entry it also has good resistance to water exit. therefore, be sure to treat the inside--everywhere--to inhibit the entry of moisture from the inside of the stock also.

linseed based finshes are very effective when applied properly, but when used alone are somewhat time consuming and slow to apply. they do blacken over time also. i like doing these finishes the most, mainly becuase it gives me an excuse to pick up beautiful wood every so often and molest it with my hand. that is just about the best this old man can do.

tung oil based finishes are very transparant and do not discolor with age. however,when used used alone, they are quite thick and almost require thinning. they catalyze fairly quickly and are much faster than linseed to apply and they are more water resistant than carelessly done linseed.

polyurethans finishes are also easy to apply and are fast to apply also, but they yellow quite rapidly and are more opaque than the others mentioned.

varnishes, whether linseed or tung oil based, tend to be excellant compounds that enhance drying and therefore are usually quick and easy to use--and are quite durable.

any choice has pluse and minus features in different situations. i love messing with finishes.

take care, daniel

 

[Darkhorse]

I agree that Jim Chambers stock finish is very good stuff. I like it a lot. However there is one part of your process I question. The part about sealing the wood prior to applying the finish.
The recommendation I got was NOT to seal the wood. As this finish contains heavy penetrating propertys then having the wood sealed will prevent proper absorbtion of the finish.
I know that the Permalyn finish requires the wood to be sealed prior to applying the finish. But that is not the same as the Chambers finish, so says the inventor of the permalyn finish.
I guess I'm just curious as to why Jim Chambers "now" recommends sealing the wood first.

 

[Deadeye]

Some finishes seal and finish in one operation but if your going to use a seperate sealer (more necessary on walnut than maple)then it has to go on first.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I've use the Birchwood Casey sealer and hand-rubbed Tru Oil (a linseed type) on two walnut stocks (one a T/C New Englander kit) and a mystery wood (beech?) off a Finnish Mosin-Nagant M39 (1939 Sako barrel!) with very good results and longevity. It is very easy care in use - just rub a drip of linseed oil in with your hand to cure 'woods rash.' To remove the shine, either don't buff it or else wipe it down gently with 0000 steel wool.

 

[JerryToth]

Hi Lonewolf 5347;

I built my first rifle last summer, an Early Lancaster. I used Formby's Tung Oil. It was a beautiful finish and it was easy for a first-time builder.

I carried the rifle lots last deer season here in Pennsylvania. I carry it in one hand, balanced. My grip goes just behind the rear ramrod entry pipe on the forestock.

Unfortunately, the finish is showing lots of wear. There are tiny scratches in the finish. I asked Formby's how to touch it up, and they didn't have anything of value to offer short of restripping the entire rifle and redoing it all. Only a 6 or 8" section shows wear.

Have you had any similar experience with the Formby's Tung Oil? Anyone else?

I'd appreciate any advice on how to do just a section. By the time next Autumn's seasons are over, it will need done.

Regards,

Jerry
Uniontown, PA