Stock Finishing with Minwax Wipe On Poly finish

[mattacton]

Hi.

I was wondering if anyone has ever used Minwax's Wipe-On Poly Finish in clear satin finish a muzzleloader with?

I'm working on a 54 cal. GPR. I found this stuff in Home Depot earlier today, when looking for a medium walnut stain for the European Walnut stock that Lyman provides. So far, the test results on scrap wood give a very nice, very satin (definately a matte) finish on top of the wood. It seems to be easy to deal with, easier than Birchwood-Casey's Tru Oil or straight Linseed Oil.

Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone might have some results to speak of?

Thanks,

Matt :hmm:

 

[Java Man]

Traditional finishes aside, poly is a very good moisture protector. Will probably not "feel" like an oil finish when done, niether will Birchwood casey's Tru Oil.

Java Man

 

[Old40Rod]

I used some (the gel type in a bottle) on a set of rosewood grips for my S&W 1917 .45, it actually looks fairly decent. I also used a darker version (walnut IIRC) on a old record cabinet for Ms. 40Rod and its holding up nicely. I don't know if I would have the guts to used it on a full size BP rifle stock as there are so many other options. I am partial to boiled linseed/spar mix myself as its easy to fix scratches and dings.

 

[jh45gun]

I have found if you do not want to go through the trouble of a oil finish though they are some of the nicest use spray enamel. Clear cans of spray enamel gives a good finish and easy to apply and dries fast. You can get matt or glossy and you can use the glossy and buff it down for a more subdued gloss if you want. Looks good and wax works well on it. It has a better look to it than spray laquer or poly not as glaring and like I said you can dull the finish to how you like it with fine steel wool and it does not show marks like poly or laquer does. Jim

 

[mattacton]

So far, the tests show that the Minwax Poly Wipe-on has delivered more of a hand-rubbed look and feel than either Tru-Oil or Boiled Linseed Oil.

Mrs. SuperstitionCoues used to make Early American furniture in Ohio with her father, and she gave me the idea for this. They used a simple finish of stain and Johnson's Paste Wax on their stuff, which delivered a very warm, appealing hand-rubbed finish. Her brother has done large furniture pieces with sprayed urethane and then waxed the surface as a final coat, and are absolutely beautiful. A dull sheen results that (I swear) looks more like a older hand-rubbed finish than an oil finish does.

I'm doing one more test of it though, before I commit and use it on my stock. A piece of high-quality scrap stained with Minwax's Early American stain, followed by 4 to 5 coats of the Poly Wipe-On. Then I think I am going to make another trip to Home Depot and pick up a can of Minwax Paste Wax (as I can't easily find Johnson's Paste Wax out here) and use that as the finish coat, to give a little more sheen to the wood.

The Poly Wipe on in clear satin doesn't give the thick, resin-plastic appearance that the word "polyurethane" suggests. The sheen is actually very dull, and almost not visible. It has also been easier to apply than Tru Oil or Linseed Oil, where the bubbles, lumps and pits that are almost inherent of the oil finishs don't exist in the Wipe On. The trick is to rub it on in a gentle circular motion. I actually want more of shine than it provides, hence the final coating of wax.

I know it isn't the "traditional" way of finishing a stock, and I intend on testing it yet again on the interior of the barrel channel first. But it is working, looking and working better than the "traditional" methods that I've tried. So, why not? (Oh, I hope I haven't opened up a can of worms with that!)

Look here for how the stock finally comes out. If this comes out as well as I think it will, I have a few more older, abused stocks that I want to refinish. I can't wait!

 

[djnye]

for what it is worth i would consider the effects of time on the finishes also. polyurethane yellows in a rather short time, oil varnishes darken, but at a much slower rate, boiled linseed oil eventually will oxidize and blacken, lacquer and tung oils remain clear. pick your poison.

take care, daniel

 

[Darkhorse]

A good stock finish isn't just good to look at it also serves a purpose, to seal the wood from moisture. So I would be concerned about that also. And if its primary design is for interior furniture it might leave something to be desired down the road in the sealing department.
I like the Jim Chambers traditional oil finish. After having used it I have stopped looking for a good finish. I've found it.
The first coat is applied heavy, let to sit about 20 minutes then rubbed off with a hard faced cloth. This seals the pores. Subsequent coats are all hand rubbed. No pits, bubbles or runs if done correctly. It can be made to look as deep and shiney as you want or buffed back to a dull sheen.
It's really good stuff.

 

[CrackStock]

For some interesting info in this area, try:

http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/oldfinish.htm

http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/stock.htm

Some other good FAQs there as well.

CS

 

[crockett]

Talk about good timing. I am just finishing up a rifle with linseed oil and it is taking forever(Florida humidity). I use it both as a finish and to fill in the pores. etc. Everytime I go through this ordeal I swear I'll never do it again but next rifle or pistol- right back to the oil because I know I'll get a good finish. This month or last month one of the woodworking magazines had a product test of all the wipe on finishes and Minwax Wipe on Poly came out on top for durability even though it was one of the lowest priced products. I guess I use oil because you can blend out scratches but on furntiture, etc if you put a wet glass on a linseed oil finish, the water goes right through and stains the wood- I guess that ought to say something. A better, faster, more protective finish with the look of oil may be one compromise to modern times worth considering.

 

[11th corps]

Just today I finished the stock on my T.O.W. trade musket with the Wipe on Poly finish. As someone else mentioned, it is not recommended for exterior use. I won't be taking my musket out in the wet or snow (range use only). If it doesn't perform to my expectations, I will sand it off and try something else.
It is easy to use. I have used it on a number of furniture pieces I have built. I like it much better then finishes that have to be applied with a brush.
Good shooting to you

 

[fatboy]

Not sure about the Minwax/poly but Truoil will give a nice fin and protects well I know Its not PC but I know some fulltime builders use it . Ive used Tung oil and the Tru oil and like both I didnt think there was really a problem with applying them . I would stay away from the linseed oil it doesnt give a good water resistant barrier if you ae going out in bad weather :imo: :results:

 

[AeroE]

Tru-Oil is under rated - after all, how can a low cost over the counter product in a blue plastic bottle be any good?

Tru-Oil is a polymerized product that beats hell out of linseed oil, in every meaningful measure, including appearance. You just have to be willing to apply enough coats, and sand or buff out every trace of cloudiness in the finish - hold the gunstock in a glancing light to see the areas that need more work. Linseed oil requires the same (or more) work and attention, and will never yield an equal finish.

On the other hand, Tru-Oil may not be the best finish, but it's very hard to discriminate amongst the top contenders about which one truly is best.

The best finish I've ever bought was sold in the 70's - I think by Outer's. Anyway, it put an outstanding finish on a derringer kit I assembled in my room in USAF tech school in Denver. I still have remnants - I may rejuvenate the bottle one of these days just to try it out.

 

[shootrj2003]

A great deal of gun finishes are for interior use,but a modern gun is basically an interior critter,we don’t spend months in the woods like old guns did so an interior finish works nowadays,years ago the same basic finish used on ships spars was used on guns,except gentlemen’s guns with fine decorations and intended to stay beautiful and be brought out of the gun cabinet and bragged about,but a regular working gun ,varnish and wax maybe yeah kept clean and wiped off but smoothed by use.we use a gentlemen’s finish today.

 

[shootrj2003]

I am by the way trying wipe on poly first time,usually I use tru oil however,for weird reasons,I was forced to strip it once for a dent three layers stripped next 8 layers and I don’t know why parts looked great others rough nothing worked so I stripped again and did not want to do anymore Tru oil for awhile so my wife ordered a bunch of real nice finishes from Brownells for me...but..I did not want to wait so I thought of wiping poly and tried it,if it does not work I have stuff coming and might strip again but third coat looks good so far.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I have used Minwax Wipe-on Poly quite extensively on wooden musical instruments with very good results (though I now prefer good ol' Shellac). I was also considering Wipe-on Poly for a rifle stock but decided against it.
One thing to consider is what to do with the dings and scratches that may come along. Poly does leave witness lines since the layers do not blend-in but rather layer-up. It might not be an issue but then again....

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
It would be very helpful if anyone who discusses their favorite finish for a gun include photos of their work with that finish.

dave

 

[Vaino]

My first build was finished w/ hardware store BLO and after months of sitting around waiting for the stuff to dry and finally thought it was dry so took it deer hunting. Was warm that year and it was raining instead of snowing and in short order, my stock finish became a gooey mess on which I ruined my red hankies. Never again was BLO used......Fred

 

[Pete G]

If you have wait days for BLO to dry you are doing it wrong.

 

[PathfinderNC]

My first build was finished w/ hardware store BLO and after months of sitting around waiting for the stuff to dry and finally thought it was dry so took it deer hunting. Was warm that year and it was raining instead of snowing and in short order, my stock finish became a gooey mess on which I ruined my red hankies. Never again was BLO used......Fred

It sounds like you used regular Linseed Oil rather than the Boiled Linseed Oil which has dryers in it. Otherwise, you applied it too thickly and it's gummed up. A light application ("session") at a time, rubbed in and wiped off, is a good method for BLO.

 

[Notchy Bob]

I've used straight boiled linseed oil (BLO) for smaller projects and agree with @PathfinderNC and @Pete G (see their posts above). Here in Florida, if it is just brushed on, you're going to have a sticky mess for months. Seriously. It has to be applied sparingly and rubbed in vigorously. I hold a fingertip over the spout of the bottle or can and tip it to get my fingertip wet, then wipe that on a small area of wood, then rub it in with my palm. Keep rubbing until the wood feels warm and dry. Repeat in another small area, and keep repeating until the whole surface has been treated. Repeat the whole process the next day, and the next, ideally for a week. Finishing a gun stock or any large project this way would be labor intensive, but it's what you need to do with BLO. If one doesn't have the time or inclination, some other finish might be a better choice, which is the point of this thread. However, done properly, a hand rubbed oil finish is beautiful, durable, and easy to "touch up."

This has been an informative discussion, though. Some pictures would make it even better.

Notchy Bob