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Stock polish

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Bobby James

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What is something that I can put on my stock to make it really look good. It is a Pedersoli Hawken with American Walnut wood. Its really dark wood and I want something to keep it nice looking. Would furniture polish look ok?

While I am asking questions what is something I can put on my brass to make it look really nice. I don't want something to where I have to clean it everyday.
 
Renaissance Wax works well and does not leave fingerprints. It is used by many museums. Here a link for some background on the wax. It is not cheap but it does go a longs ways. I used it on my turkey calls all the time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OZagOg2Bek
 
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Furniture polish is made for finished wood that is going to be kept inside the house.

It isn't very durable nor is it very water proof.

Renaissance Wax was mentioned but it is expensive.

Old fashioned Johnsons Paste Wax is pretty good for protecting finished surfaces and it's waterproof.

The top brands of auto wax's are even better at protecting things. They are water proof and made to be used outside.

You do NOT want a auto "polish". They contain abrasives that will remove your guns stock finish.

I've found that Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba wax is excellent. There are no abrasives in it and it lasts for months on a car.

These same auto waxes will protect any metal parts on your gun just as effectively as they protect paint/finishes.

As a side benefit, they can be used to wax your car and unlike the old car waxes they are very easy to apply and to remove for a high polish. :)
 
This is what I use & seems to do quite well for me. :thumbsup: Also if you order the walnut tone, it doesn't leave any white residue like some waxes. I also use it to seal the barrel channel/wood crack & around the tang & breech, etc. You can Google it, may get lucky & find it locally.



A large can will last you Years.

Keith Lisle
 
First remove all of the existing finish. Be sure it's all off. Then put about 3 coats of exterior gloss polyurethane on, sanding lightly between each coat. Then rub the finish coat with 000 steel wool to get a mat finish all over. Then apply a coat of Briwax and buff it out. You will have a very durable, attractive finish that really shows of the quality of the wood. It's waterproof and even resists UV.
 
The Briwax may be OK for furniture inside or for show guns inside, but not for hunting rifles. It says right on the can not to use it if it will contact water. And when I used it (cause I didn't read the fine print) the rain drops made water spots all over the stock that I had to rub out with 0000 steel wool.

Renaissance Wax is very good too, but pretty expensive. Leaves more of a low luster which is appropriate for most antique firearms. I have not checked it to see how it does against water.

Keith Lisle
 
First remove all of the existing finish. Be sure it's all off. Then put about 3 coats of exterior gloss polyurethane on, sanding lightly between each coat.

With all due respect, this may be fine for a pick nick table but it is not a suitable finish for a fine long rifle.
 
54ball said:
First remove all of the existing finish. Be sure it's all off. Then put about 3 coats of exterior gloss polyurethane on, sanding lightly between each coat.

With all due respect, this may be fine for a pick nick table but it is not a suitable finish for a fine long rifle.

:grin: YES...that's right! Poly...what ever should not get in touch with gun stocks! Speaking of treating stocks...what's the best, period correct, way to stain and treat a walnut stock? Boiled linsede oil for sure but what color and where to get it from or make it myself? Will acid (aqua fortis) work on walnut?

thanks
Uwe
 
Keith: re: your comment on Briwax. I dont doubt your observation for a second. I use Briwax (the Tudor brown stuff) on my longrifle flinters and havent had any spotting issues while hunting in snowy conditions. I admit I'm a wuss tho - in an honest rain in flintlock season, I head back to camp and wait it out.
/mike
 
I have had several tell me they use it. Maybe they don't hunt in the rain, I don't know. :idunno: All I know is what happened to me on 2 different rifles, and what it says right on the can. :confused: Maybe they have one specifically for water, I don't know.



Keith Lisle
 
I guess it depends on whether you want a good looking, long lasting, durable finish or a "purist" finish you can redo constantly. I've built furniture for years and you can pour hot coffee on this finish and it won't hurt it. There's a reason modern gun builders use poly finishes. I shoot my guns a lot. I need a durable finish that can stand the weather. Any kind of rubbed on oil finish has to be redone constantly. But I'm not worried about being historically correct.
 
Good ole Johnson's paste wax. I keep a big can on the bench with my cleaning supplies. I wax the barrel channel and lock mortise, and it won't hurt to get it on the metal. As for the brass, I used cold blueing to blacken the brass, and pulled it back with steel wool. It has a nice antique patina, and from there it ages to an even nicer look. If you like it shiny, you'll need something designed to clean brass, Brasso, or cloth that is used for cleaning silver or brass, and a lot of elbow grease.
 
The Original Post asked about Stock Polish, not stock finishes.....

Also, original poster asked about something to keep the brass ? shiny or not having to clean it.
In response to that, the only thing I know to do in this instance is to clear coat the brass. Only problem is once this is done, the clear coat scratches & then looks crappy.
Brass will naturally tarnish when exposed to the atmosphere. Here again, application of a good wax on the stock & on the brass will help in keeping it from tarnishing. However, to keep it really bright shiny, my favorite is Mothers Mag Wheel Polish (it is a paste). It will shine that brass like gold, but it will require reapplication & rubbing now & then. One might want to wear some latex gloves in polishing it, or you will have black tarnish residue all over your hands.

Keith Lisle
 
Birddog, I was doing some looking for finishes and this guy about the 3:30 mark said that a heavy wax shows water spots. might be the reason for the different takes on the wax you have/used. Me :idunno: never used it enough to know. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_eVQVo-MvA
 
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maybe im wrong...but I usually just rough the existing finish and apply a super thing couat of true oil...then smooth it out with steel wool. afyter that i usually just wipe with barricade...never had a problem
 
I use a homemade paste wax called Gunny's Paste. It works well and is easy to apply and reapply. The thing I like about it is that it produces a nice looking finish yet is not super shinny like a varnish. Also if you get a scratch or ding you can just apply more and you will never see the mark.

It is simple to make. It is just equal parts of beeswax, turpentine, and BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). Heat the beeswax in a small dish in the oven till melted and then mix in the turp and BLO.

Once it cools to room temp then you can use your hand to rub the wax into the stock, then buff off with a clean cloth. Apply to bare wood and it will soak in and protect the wood.

Greebe
 
I can tell you what Museums use on their displays and that is a microcrystalline wax product called Renaissance Wax. I use it on my guns and I am of the opinion that there is nothing better. It is available from many fine furniture stores and from places like Track of The Wolf and Dixie Gun Works. It ain't cheap but a small can will last a looooong time. :thumbsup:
 

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