stock templet
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Several supply houses have full size drawings available for some guns.
Dixie has a lot of them for around $5 to $25 each. Be sure to read the discription though. Some of them are just reduced drawings for making pictures but a lot of them are full size.
Some of the ones they list are Hawken, Ohio, Lancaster, English Sporting, Purdey, Lemans Trade Rifle, Bedford, Tennessee, Tulle fusil-de-chasse, North West Indian Trade Gun, Jaeger, U.S. Model 1814.
Page 498-500 in catalog no 154 (2005).
Dixie has a lot of them for around $5 to $25 each. Be sure to read the discription though. Some of them are just reduced drawings for making pictures but a lot of them are full size.
Some of the ones they list are Hawken, Ohio, Lancaster, English Sporting, Purdey, Lemans Trade Rifle, Bedford, Tennessee, Tulle fusil-de-chasse, North West Indian Trade Gun, Jaeger, U.S. Model 1814.
Page 498-500 in catalog no 154 (2005).
Herb
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What kind of longrifle do you want? You can make your own templates or patterns. I frequently build rifles from pictures. You can calculate the major dimensions from one known dimension of a photo. Say you can match the lock up to one of Track of the Wolf's full size photos. That gives you one close dimension to work with (the original may have been altered). Say the lock is 5 inches long, but in the photo it is .5". You measure other parts of the photo, such as butt plate, patch box, length of pull, etc, and multiply by 10. You can calculate those dimensions plus drop at comb and heel, length of lower forearm, length of rifle, etc. Then I have a pattern to work with. I have sawed these from the stick or sent them to Jack Garner at Tennesse Valley Manufacturing and he cut them for me. Did 4 or 5 (I lose track), very good work. Or you can take the photo and enlarge it on a copier to full size, usually just the butt and lock area. Or Track and Dixie Gun Works and other suppliers have full sized plans of perhaps a dozen different styles. What do you want?
I don't know anyone that sells templets. I have taken patterns & copied them & cut them out & glue cardboard to them to make them more durable. You can buy lots of different patterns of the popular rifles.
If you have a picture of one there is no pattern for. Copy the photo on clear copy plastic (can't think of what they call it) & then you put that in an opaque projector, then project it on the wall. Then you need just one dimension such as barrel length, you move the projector til you have that exact dimension & you draw the pattern off the projection. If you use graft paper you will have every increment to make the replica very close.
:results:
If you have a picture of one there is no pattern for. Copy the photo on clear copy plastic (can't think of what they call it) & then you put that in an opaque projector, then project it on the wall. Then you need just one dimension such as barrel length, you move the projector til you have that exact dimension & you draw the pattern off the projection. If you use graft paper you will have every increment to make the replica very close.
:results:
I have seen some fine rifles copied from pictures, when viewed from the side profile. Where they got it all wrong is, the builder had nothing to go on as to depth. They were way too thick and wide, like a club, and the forearm profile was not right. Original guns were thin, slim, the wrist on many rifles was 1 1/2" or less. Think that .22 rifle with a 42" barrel. Ennyhoo, Hanson's trade rifle sketchbook and Prior Mtn. Bill's book on trade guns have templates that one can go by, and they are cheap, about $5.00 each. :applause:
I am unaware of ready-made, off-the-shelf templates.
Both editions of Buchele's Recreating the American Longrifle have full size drawings included with them. Prior Mountain Bill may have a full-size drawing, as well. "Seeing through the Eyes of Yesterday ... The Kentucky Rifle and the Golden Mean," by Patrick Hallam (available from Dixon's) can show you the PC method of designing a stock. His very nice line drawings can be enlarged, also. Most suppliers have full size drawings for sale.
When drawing from scratch, scaling-up from a picture, or enlarging a picture on a copier, or projecting to a known dimension, I like to use 1" graph paper, available for flip-charts. It makes life alot easier!!! A full-size drawing can be copied in segments onto 8.5x11 paper and re-assempled on the graph paper. It helps to make reference marks on the original drawing to aid in re-assembling the individual sheets.
I like to use clear plastic for the template so I can see the grain clearly. Celluloid or acrylic plastic window stock works well. If I use cardboard or Masonite, I make it in "reverse" (cutout) so I can see the grain through the "hole." (trace around the inside.)
Good advice about the missing third dimension of depth/thickness. Not only in the wrist, but in the cheekpiece, fore-end thickness, and cast-off, too. I have fallen into this pothole myself!!!
It's more fun/practical to "adjust" stock dimensions to suit your build, anyway. Once you find dimensions that fit you, its easy to incorporate them into subsequent stocks.
Hope this helps.
Both editions of Buchele's Recreating the American Longrifle have full size drawings included with them. Prior Mountain Bill may have a full-size drawing, as well. "Seeing through the Eyes of Yesterday ... The Kentucky Rifle and the Golden Mean," by Patrick Hallam (available from Dixon's) can show you the PC method of designing a stock. His very nice line drawings can be enlarged, also. Most suppliers have full size drawings for sale.
When drawing from scratch, scaling-up from a picture, or enlarging a picture on a copier, or projecting to a known dimension, I like to use 1" graph paper, available for flip-charts. It makes life alot easier!!! A full-size drawing can be copied in segments onto 8.5x11 paper and re-assempled on the graph paper. It helps to make reference marks on the original drawing to aid in re-assembling the individual sheets.
I like to use clear plastic for the template so I can see the grain clearly. Celluloid or acrylic plastic window stock works well. If I use cardboard or Masonite, I make it in "reverse" (cutout) so I can see the grain through the "hole." (trace around the inside.)
Good advice about the missing third dimension of depth/thickness. Not only in the wrist, but in the cheekpiece, fore-end thickness, and cast-off, too. I have fallen into this pothole myself!!!
It's more fun/practical to "adjust" stock dimensions to suit your build, anyway. Once you find dimensions that fit you, its easy to incorporate them into subsequent stocks.
Hope this helps.
