Stubborn frizzen

[three otters]

I just received my new rifle, had a copy of a "Rupp" style rifle made. I took it out to shoot today and had minor problems. The first was corrected easily (debris) in the flash hole. The second has me perplexed, the hammer contacts the frizzen about 3/4 of the way up the face yet the frizzen doesn't allways open completely, gets stuck about 75% of the time (only fired the rifle 25 times). The lock was browned by the gunmaker, is it commen for a new lock to act this way? also the frizzen has some side to side rotation. When I compared this to the lock on my TCA Hawken there was litte if any side to side rotation. From your past experience is this something that goes away after a break-in period or does this sound like it could be a more serious problem. I don't want to start calling the builder with a problem that might rectify it self with use. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my question.

 

[rich pierce]

Better off asking the builder, I think. This happens for several reasons, doesn't usually fix itself, and the maker would probably want to hear about it and make his own diagnosis and repair. I know my doctor hates it if I tell him, "Aunt Bee says I got the whoopin cough and you oughta give me some camphor and laudanum."

The only thing I'd advise trying on your own is "bevel up vs. bevel down" and changing how far the flint extends from the jaws of the cock. One thing at a time, and see if one way works better than others.

 

[ol vern]

>I don't want to start calling the builder with a problem that might rectify< <it self with use. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.<




:m2c:

If it was me I would call the builder. let him fix the problem. That is part of what you pay for when you buy a costom firearm.

 

[GobblerKnob]

Big K ~ Because it's browned, there is probably some residual rust on the internal parts, which keeps the lock from working smoothly.

In other words, lots of drag, which slows down the hammer, which prevents the frizzen from opening completely. It can be remedied easily be tearing the lock apart and polishing up all the parts that come in contact with each other. No lubrication is neccessary.

Of course, the guy who built it for you should be able to do this for you if you aren't comfortable with that level of tinkering.

Good luck!
Rick

 

[2172]

Big K, had this problem with a GPR, and solved it by polishing the surfaces that touched...the pin that acted as the pivot, the hole through which the pin passed, the adjacent fixed surfaces...I was afraid I was going to be forced to mess with the frizen spring, but didn't need to do it..Hank

 

[Darkhorse]

Sometimes the hole warps when the frizzen is hardened causing a bind on the screw. This will cause the effect your describing. Even with some side to side play it can still bind because the hole is warped oblong, just like it can still function fine with a little play.
What I would do (if this proved to be the case) is chuck the bolt by the head in a drill press and sand the shoulder until the frizzen worked freely. Of course a check for rust or trash in the hole is basic. I also use a little fine oil to lube the bolt.
But if the rifle was made for you by someone else I would definitely ask the builder to correct the problem. It's not always a show stopper if the frizzen doesn't pop open. I have a siler that occasionally doesn't pop open but it always fires so I don't worry about it much.

 

[dlemaster]

You didn't mention if the lock is lubricated at the frizzen screw, try a fine oil or a mixture of good gun grease with a little graphite added to slick things up. That has worked for me a couple of times after making sure there is no after rusting from the browning process.
Hope this helps.

Regards, Dave

 

[robinghewitt]

yet the frizzen doesn't allways open completely, gets stuck about 75% of the time

The frizzen is probably opening all the way, bouncing off it's spring hitting the flint and then getting stuck.

You may need to tweak the frizzen to spring contact a bit to fine tune it so it comes rest in the right place. May only need a polish..

If you want to test this theory, do not put your finger where the frizzen usually comes to rest on it's spring and then fire the lock.

Don't ask me how I know not to do that ::