Stumpy's Moose Milk

[Chickenfax]

I just made my first batch of Moose Milk. Thank you Stumpy for the recipe and the research you did. I have a question though. Did you just mix the ingredients at room temperature or did you heat the mixture? The castor oil doesn't seem to 'dissolve' into the mixture.
I will be trying it out at the range tomorrow and I can give results.

I have been looking for some kind of oil/lubricant/solvent to use for a patch between shots. In my 40 caliber percussion rifle I swab with a lubricated patch between shots. I had some Knight oil that I purchased and it seemed to work fine. When I ran out of that I went to a store and bought some Hoppe's Gun Oil. Last week I went to the range with the new oil. (The only new variable) The shot groups were way off. After a few shots it became almost impossible to swab out the barrel. It was as if the oil was epoxy or some durn thang... I attributed this to the oil. After reading many posts I have decided that I am on the right track. As an experiment, I ommited swabing between shots and my groups seemed to get tighter. So I am hoping this recipe will give me good results.
Sorry, I can ramble on. 'Specially after a good night at the local pub.

 

[Zonie]

I think what you were seeing with the Hoppes Gun oil is what quite a few people have reported when using petroleum products in the bore and mixing in some black powder fouling.

I'm not saying not to use petroleum products to protect your bore when your not shooting, but if you have used it, before you start shooting, try to remove as much of it as possible.
Some even go so far as to use brake cleaner/degreaser sprays just to make sure petroleum oils are not in the bore.

Using natural vegistable oils, especially Caster oil seems to keep the fouling soft and protect the metal at the same time.

 

[Stumpkiller]

The milk I mix at room temperature. If you heat the alcohol it will evaporate out immediately. The ingredients will seperate rapidly, so you need to shake it up well before use or when transferring to smaller containers. The oil soap will cut the castor and witch hazel oils, as will the alcohol. I start with the alcohol and add everything to that (in a two liter soda bottle) with the water last, and then shake like mad.

For the new folks:

Stumpy's Moose Milk
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.


I carry mine in 1 oz McCormick's Extract bottles that have been "antiqued" by grinding off the threads with a Muzzy wheel and swapping a cork for the plastic cap.

The combination of ingredients makes a "poor man's water-soluable oil" out of the castor - which is not water soluable but is soluble in alcohol (olive oil is not readily soluble in either, only reason I don't use that). The alcohol will mix with water. The Murphy's emulsifies the oil suspension, and the witch hazel keeps it from 'beading" and improves the coating characteristics. The alcohol and water then evaporate off; and my rust tests seem to substantiate this.

 

[Chickenfax]

Thanks for your replies! I had a great day shooting. The 40 cal started shooting in the black again. I don't have the target handy to give groups but my best was approximately 2 inches at 50 yards. That is about the best I have been able to shoot the gun. I need to work on consistent shooting form, i.e. holding the gun. I think that is holding me back from tighter groups.
Kudos on the recipe. Loading was a lot easier and I even started using it on the shooting patch. I was spittin' previously but I kinda get tired of spitting out fiber all durn day.
A real nice older gentleman I met at the range gave me his recipe for moosemilk. He uses water soluble cutting oil, soap, hydrogen peroxide and water. I may try it and compare for $hits n grins. I'll post the exact recipe if anyone is interested.
Thanks to all the members here again.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Just note that hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizer and will rust your barrel if you don't chase it out. After it bubbles it is just water, and water is much cheaper and easier to find to begin with. I don't think it is bacteria that cause fouling, anyway. ::

Personally, :imo: there are a lot better things to use in your barrel. Peroxide or Clorox are THE LAST things from the usual lineup of kitchen or bathroom cabinets that I would use inside the barrel of my guns. I'd use Drano before I'd resort to H. peroxide - but LOTS of guys do use it. I have used peroxide on the outside of in-the-white barrels to produce a mild rust-browning to cut the shine.

 

Personally, :imo: there are a lot better things to use in your barrel. Peroxide or Clorox are THE LAST things from the usual lineup of kitchen or bathroom cabinets that I would use inside the barrel of my guns.

Have to agree with that ,also had some staining left on my stock when using the peroxide . Have since switched . :results: :m2c: