Switching Percussion to Flintlock?

[Ash Eyler]

Just a thot and i'm not sure i want to, but i was wondering if it's possible to change a Percussion Lock to a Flintlock.
This is what i got

 

It can be done, but your biggest hurdle will be finding a lock to fit in the mortice. The drum can be pulled, and replaced with a touch hole liner, that will be the easy part. The Track of the Wolf catalog has full size pic's of the parts they sell. You can trace the mortice, and try and match it, as close as posible. You could also get a Chambers gun builders lock, which has a large rectangular plate you could shape, but it has a Germanic pan and wouldn't look right on that style gun in my opinion, but even that can be reworked if you are up to it. Bottom line is it can be done, but may be more work than you wish to take on.

Bill

 

[Ash Eyler]

Hmmm :hmm: so if i found a lock that matches the size and close shape of my current one (which i know will be hard to find), it would be pretty easy tho?

 

[Ash Eyler]

You guys think this one would work or at least be a close fit? (i would get one to match the rifle)

 

[rich pierce]

It could work but the style of the rifle you have is later than the flint period. But if you just want to shoot flintlock, it could be done. The challenge is whether or not the drum hole is located where you need the touchhole to be. You'd need a threaded steel rod to screw into the drum threads, leave it long and protruding a bit, then locate the touch hole center, drill it 1/16", and cone it on the inside. At that point I'd slightly countersink the threaded hole, then re-install the plug, peen it around the edges to set it in firmly and file it flush. Basic frontier gunsmithing. With a lathe etc you could make a shouldered plug; you'd have to counterbore the threaded hole a little to match.

 

[Ash Eyler]

Hmm well if i decide to switch it over i don't want to ruin the originality of my rifle too far so i wouldn't mix the styles. Is there a specific flintlock that would match with my time period style?

 

[jdkerstetter]

First let me point out that this sounds like the perfect excuse to get another rifle.

That being said, you are getting excellent advise from recognized experts.

If I may add....

Although you haven't shown us pictures of the whole rifle....based on what can be seen you have a Southern Mountain rifle.

Those guns used flintlocks later than other styles so you it would not be out of place.

Do you have the Track of the Wolf catalog?

If not, I suggest you get one. They use scale pictures of the locks they sell so you can make a tracing of your lock's plate and cut it out and lay it over the pictures and find one that either fits or is a little over size....to file down to your dimensions.

The replacement lock you pictured has a double throated cock, while not unheard of on this stye of rifle it is less common than the standard cock. I believe it is the L&R late English lock though and L&R does have the single cock for that lock. To me they are just cleaner looking.

Then do as Rich suggest for the touch hole.

Enjoy, J.D.

P.S. We would like to see more pictures. Thanks.

 

[Ash Eyler]

Your right, it is a Tennessee style and Ya i do want to get another rifle, Flintlock next time probably Lancaster style, but i wanted to start out with a .45 caliber flintlock first, but this one was too good to pass up...

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/269378/

 

[Ash Eyler]

So your talking about this one?

Late English Flint Lock,
right hand, with gooseneck cock,
made in the USA, by L&R

 

[rich pierce]

That lock may have more curvature along the lower edge than the one in the gun.

 

[jdkerstetter]

Yes, but as Rich states too much curve.

Get the catalog from Track so you can do the overlay with a pattern of your lock and look at L&R's RPL or Replacement series of locks for T/C, CVA and Lyman. They are the same as the first one you posted but with the flatter bottom line.

If one of those will work, L&R sells the standard hammer separately that will fit these locks as well. Track has it for $14.50, item #LOCK-LR-900-CO.

There maybe others in the catalog that work too. I can't recommend the catalog enough for it's scale pictures....worth every penny of the $10 they charge. You can then buy the lock from anyone you choose.

And thanks for the pictures. Nice gun.

Good Luck, J.D.

 

[Ash Eyler]

Well thanks guys, i really appreciate the help and the knowledge. Always great to get advice and help from experienced experts in the field. I think im gonna leave it as is. I like it, its my first long rifle, and i don't want to hinder the originality of the rifle or insult the man who this rifle was originally made for (who passed away i was told) out of respect. So for now i'm going to enjoy the one i have and i will wait and save up for a nice flintlock in the future.

 

[54ball]

You have chosen....

wisely.

 

[Keb]

I converted one like that lock once by getting a Siler kit and mounting the pan, frizzen & cock on the percussion plate. It worked out great.

 

[Walks with fire]

I know that Jim Chambers' website shows a gunbuilders lock that has a large square plate that is ground/filed to fit any mortice. I would check that out if you can't find one that is a close fit for what you have.

Getting the breachplug changed to flint will cost you a little as well but it can be done.

 

[jdkerstetter]

You have chosen....

wisely.

I think you have chosen wisely to leave as it is.

There is more involved than meets the eye.

And if you do change your mind I would stick with the original lock option and stay away from standard Siler parts as they are German in style and would not fit the style of this gun....same goes for Chamber's Gunbuilder's Lock.

You could get an English styled cock, pan and frizzen however it would require much modification to your existing lock plate to install the pan and if your tumbler geometry isn't right the lock may not function as it is supposed to.

Regardless which way you go you will probably have to remove some wood over the plate to allow for cock travel.

I believe your choice is very wise. Enjoy her the way she is and if you want a flinter, buy a fliter. There's nothing wrong with owning both.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Dave K]

I have fit many locks to convert guns. Doing the TOW catalog "look see" is a great way to do it. Look at the sear bar to pan distance as one of the things to look for, to make it fit. I have a friendly welder near me that is always willing to help with my projects like this. I never alter the gun, but I will alter the lock plate to fit the gun. Many times you file off here and tig weld metal on there. When all filed and fit up it is a perfect fit. May take a few trips to have him weld the lock plate up, as I file it down for that perfect fit, but in the end, you cannot see where and what I did to get it to fit as it should.

 

[jdkerstetter]

Dave,

I don't see how do you convert to flint and not alter the wood over the lock to allow for the cock to stop on the lockplate in this case.

It looks to me that, being built as a caplock, there is not enough clearence.

Thanks, J.D.

 

[jdkerstetter]

Dave,

I don't see how do you convert to flint and not alter the wood over the lock to allow for the cock to stop on the lockplate in this case.

It looks to me that, being built as a caplock, there is not enough clearence.

Thanks, J.D.

 

[Dave K]

I have had a cock stop welded or built up at the top of the lock plate. The of course the cock is filed down so that it cannot hit the wood. You do though have to be careful, that you leave a kind of ledge on the cock to rest or stop the forward motion of the cock, so it can stop on the welded stop I mentioned. BUT, not all guns need what you are referring to. It depends on the build of the gun. You can change a T/C back and forth without altering the wood. M&G locks have a rather thick lock plate, that moves the whole hammer or cock assy. further out from the wood. The thicker lock plate is doing the same thing as I am doing by welding up a cock stop on the lock plate.

In other words, a thicker lock plate can be needed on a flint gun,this will set the whole working mechanism further from the stock, so the wood clearance takes care of itself, over a perc. gun. Make sense?