T/C Hawken Kit

[Smokestick]

Has anyone built a T/C Hawken kit recently, and what did you think of it? I'm thinking of a .50 percussion from Fox Ridge Outfitters, and maybe getting a round ball barrel from them also. It's either that, or the GPR kit. I'm not too worried about period looks, but more concerned about quality (and my lack of metal finishing expertise-wood, no problem, metal, eh, not so good).

The GPR has lots of fans, and I handled a factory finished one at Cabelas over the weekend and it was nice. I'd probably be happy with the GPR, but I'd like some more info on the T/C kit before deciding.

Any feedback on the T/C kit? Thanks.

 

[SAJones]

Did one about 10 years ago for a friend. Way too easy. The lock dropped in w/ no inletting required, just a touch required at the breech end of the barrel. Had to make it more complex. The escuteons were inlet for a stepped escuteon plate; I discarded them & inlet for a flush-fit oval plate. Also thinned the too-thick buttplate for a more authentic look. That took awhile. The stock did have enough wood to carve a real beavertail cheekrest, & thinned the forearm down to feather thickness where it meets the barrel flats. Also modified the triggerguard, cut off the ugly hanging down spur & part of the rear curl. Tossed the sights & made a fixed rear sight that fits the sight screw holes & put in a regular blade front. Browned all the steel stuff. By the way, accuracy is better than I can shoot.

If I were to do it again, I would throw away the TC nosecap, inlay an entry thimble, & cast a pewter cap or lay in a Hawken type steel one (browned).

Or you can make it IAW directions.

Actually, if I were to put together a commercial kit again, I would definately check the GPR, as they do look better and I've seen folks that shoot them well.

 

[CrackStock]

I have both Lyman and T/C kit guns. They are good kits as entry level guns. The T/C is more complete in my view as there was some breech work to do on the Lyman. You will get far better support from T/C which is also an American product, but the Lyman looks a bit better.

The Lyman metal work is on steel while the T/C is brass. Brass is far easier to work.

I get pretty good accuracy from either.

Either should serve you well.

CS

 

[BB61]

I made one about three (3) years ago with no experience on anything and not knowing it wasn't very accurate as to authenticity. The kit was mostly drop-in but to get a flush fit on the metal I spent hours sanding and using steel wool. After everything fit perfectly, I finshed with a hand-rubbed oil finish and tarnished the brass --didn't like the bright shinny look after all. I think the rifle looks very nice and I can shoot it at 50 yards as accurate as anyone at the range with a modern scoped rifle. I'm now looking at a more accurate stock, authenticity wise, and into browning everything and replacing the rear sight and the nose cap.