t/c hawken question

[grizzy adams]

I have a t/c hawken , double set triggers , well I adjusted the screw between the triggers , so I got a great target trigger but heres the problem , when I go to use the front trigger alone ,the pull on it is like a bear it so hard , is there any way u can fix it , or I was thinking about replacing the triggers wiff davis double set triggers , has any body tried them etc ?

 

[Zonie]

There's not too much you can do to lighten the pull of an unset front trigger except to polish the top of the front trigger blade (the thing that pushes on the sears arm) and the bottom of the sears arm. That will help a little.

Removing the sear and cutting 1/2 of a coil off of the sear spring will also help reduce the force needed to fire the gun.

I read on the forum a while back that someone had replaced the T/C trigger with a davis and was very happy with it but I don't recall if his pleasure was due to the ease of setting the rear trigger or the ease of firing the gun without the rear trigger being set.

 

[MikeChapin]

For the most part the geometry of a set trigger is not that great for using it as a straight pull trigger. usually the sear strikes too far back on the front trigger to get the best leverage on it.

I have two rifles that have decent front trigger pulls but that is due more to luck when I built them than anything else. You are pretty well stuck with the fixes Zonie mentioned. Take pressure off the sear spring and stone up mating surfaces. It will help some.

 

[necchi]

Yup, it's just what zonie and mike said, the front trigger lever is too forward to get good leverage against the sear,
The davis set-up has the same geometry, meaning you don't really gain anything using the front trigger alone, but I have 2 guns with the "deerslayer" trigger. They are defenatly smoother, have a nice feel, and balance set or un-set. It's a a nice affordable upgrade to the T/C and Lyman rifles they fit. Sometimes you need to remove a bit of wood in the trigger mortice for a good fit but instructions are included and it's really easy. :thumbsup:

 

[bobman]

Is there any reason not to use both triggers as its designed? Just curious?

thanks

Bob

 

[BrownBear]

I've put the Davis trigger on several rifles, and the improvement is so marked that I almost never bother with the set trigger these days. Just an excellent trigger all by its lonesome. I have no idea why it would be so much better, but there it is.

Another thing I really like about the Davis: The set trigger is moved way back, almost against the rear of the trigger guard. With its deep curvature while the front trigger is straight, there's never any confusion which is which when you're in a hurry.

I highly recommend the trigger change. It's almost like getting a whole new rifle for less than $50.

 

[Mad Professor]

Another one here that can highly recommend the Davis trigger.

About 1/2 hour to install with minimal amount of tools (small wood chisel. They work great set or unset and have not had to do any adjustments from the factory delivered setting.

They go right in to the old renegades with the double set triggers too.

 

[necchi]

Is there any reason not to use both triggers as its designed? Just curious?

Not really, some guy's think the noise of the "click" when setting the rear in a hunting situation could comprimise the hunt, although the trigger can be "set" long before the hammer is cocked, others simply prefer a single trigger.

There are issues with the amount of room in the trigger guard with two triggers init. I like my Renegade "Hunter" model with only one trigger for field use and trap shooting just because of that big roomy hole in the guard. But I used the double trigger in "set" mode for many years with out a bit of trouble.

It's all a matter of personal choice.

 

[longcruise]

I have the same feelings on using set vs single trigger. The front trigger pull on my GPR is so hard that it's not even an option for use. I like to use the set system for target and competition but would prefer a single for hunting. Sooooo.., one of my to do projects is to make a trigger plate that matches the GPR set trigger plate and make a single trigger. It would be a drop-in so change would be simple and the best of both worlds!

 

[buttonbuck]

I got a hawken on a trade in great shape but the trigger sucked. I put some graphite spray on it and cut the amount of required pressure pressure in half at least. I am not saying anything by this recommendation but I start out with the simple fix first. I am going to try shooting it a bunch of times and see if that helps too before taking a stone to it.

 

[necchi]

nuthin wrong with shootin a bunch buttonbuck, that's the fun part.
But if you drop that trigger, then knock those pins out, and stone the flat parts till they shine a bit, it does wonders to smooth the action on those factory triggers :thumbsup:

 

[buttonbuck]

when you say stone do you mean whet stone like what I sharpen my knife on? I will give her a try if say it doesn't improve much in 50 rounds or so. Like I said I have not shot it much and the way it looks the previous owner did not either.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Use a Carborundum stone, like the India stones you can buy for fine work.They put a fine finish on the metal parts so that the resistance/friction between parts is reduced. Most of the parts of a trigger/sear/tumbler assembly are too small to reach with a honing stone.

 

[BrownBear]

I have the same feelings on using set vs single trigger. The front trigger pull on my GPR is so hard that it's not even an option for use. I like to use the set system for target and competition but would prefer a single for hunting. Sooooo.., one of my to do projects is to make a trigger plate that matches the GPR set trigger plate and make a single trigger. It would be a drop-in so change would be simple and the best of both worlds!

If you don't want to go to the trouble, just pick up one of the Davis double set triggers we're talking about. I know it says it's for a TC, but it's a virtual drop-in for the GPR. One of mine required no inletting at all, and was in fact a drop-in. The other required me to remove about 2 molecules of wood from under the front of the trigger plate. My hunting pard put one in his GPR and he had to peel off a tiny little shaving of wood from one side of the inlet. In fact, the GPRs I've been around always require less inletting than the 2 TC's I've done.

The thing about the "architecture" of that rig, the set trigger is waaaaaay back in the trigger guard and curved to match it. You won't even know it's there if you don't get around to using it. The front trigger is just outstanding. Unset, it's still better than any other single tripper model TC or Lyman I've tried. For $47 or whatever, that Davis trigger is great for a guy like me that isn't likely to build a new trigger plate instead.

 

[grizzy adams]

well I removed 1/2 coil off the spring and honed it down a little bit , got it all back together and its a lot better than it was , still a little hard but I can live wiff it , thanks so much for all the info on what to do :hatsoff:

 

[SDSmlf]

Have a few R.E. Davis target triggers and as others have said, it is a big improvement over factory models. I assume because it is a ”˜target’ trigger the pull force adjustment range when set is very light and may not be suitable for hunting, particularly if you are wearing gloves. When not used as a set trigger the pull is not what I would call crisp, but much more acceptable than any OE version I have owned or tried. While I can not quantify it, the Davis trigger seems smoother and better made when compared to any made by TC or Lyman (Investarms).

 

[madcratebuilder]

I bought a used TC Hawken from TOW a year or so ago. It is said to have a Davis double set. Trying to use a single trigger is rally not possible it's so stiff. I guess I well use the info here to see if I can improve that. Using the set trigger is great, but no way to use just the primary.