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T/C Hawken Stock
- Thread starter Ace-Man
- Start date
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GM makes drop in replacement barrels for T/C's
might want to contact Track of the wolf or Green mountain direct and see whats in stock. You should be able to locate .40 to .62 for the 1 inch channel.
Best advice would be to contact "Roundball" hereon the forum on the TC's...he is the tc guru and has done lots of research and owns at least 1 of everything they have made and probably a few that they haven't made! he is a great resource
Best advice would be to contact "Roundball" hereon the forum on the TC's...he is the tc guru and has done lots of research and owns at least 1 of everything they have made and probably a few that they haven't made! he is a great resource
Ace-Man said:
If you're looking for a 1" .54cal FLINT barrel made for the large size .54/.58cal TC Hawken stock, both TC and GM list them:
TC / Fox Ridge lists:
Standard 1" x 28" x 1:48"
Round ball 1" x 32" x 1:66"
GM Lists a drop-in round ball 1" x 32" x 1:70".
910230 1" .54 caliber flint replacement barrel.
1" - Interchangable Barrel System - Specific round ball twist barrels for Thompson Renegade rifles. Blue finish with adjustable sights and complete with ramrod. Flint ignition. - .54 CALIBER IBS, FLINT, 1:70" TWIST, BLUED, 32"
[url] http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/catalog.aspx?catid=1InchInterchangeableBarrels[/url]
Last edited by a moderator:
Roundball,
You the Man! Given the choice. Which would you choose? GM or T/C? Like you I'm a RB lover and I look wood ramrods ONLY!
Like you, I have a collection of differant T/C side locks. Today I shot the Big Boar and was fustrated in regards to accuracy. Any Ideas?
You the Man! Given the choice. Which would you choose? GM or T/C? Like you I'm a RB lover and I look wood ramrods ONLY!
Like you, I have a collection of differant T/C side locks. Today I shot the Big Boar and was fustrated in regards to accuracy. Any Ideas?
I only buy barrels from GM that TC doesn't make...TC makes a .54cal Flint RB barrel and that's what I'd recommend...I have a couple and they're excellent...010" grooves x 1:66" twist...far more accurate than I'll ever be able shoot them...fit / finish is a little better quality than GMs...plus I think TCs are still going for $195 from Fox Ridge while GMs are up to around $225 now.Ace-Man said:
The Big Boar is another discussion...58cal standard 1:48" barrel in a Renegade stock...what are you shooting in it and what kind of problems are you having?
I took the Big Boars lock out this evening and stoned the sear. The trigger now has less travel and a cleaner brake. Big improvement. Today I was launching .570 speer RB's with 100 grains of 777 with a .010 ox-yoke patch. The balls went down with good moderate TENSION all the way down. At fifty yards I struggled to keep a grapefruit sized group. Those huge round balls are sure impressive are'nt they.
I manage a good sized sporting goods store and love the folks at T/C and Foxridge. Roland Eldridge is Prince. Good people! I do not own nor have I ever shot a GM barrel. Customers have them and like them though.
I manage a good sized sporting goods store and love the folks at T/C and Foxridge. Roland Eldridge is Prince. Good people! I do not own nor have I ever shot a GM barrel. Customers have them and like them though.
You should easily be able to use a TC .018" precut/prelubed pillow ticking patch in the .58cal with a Hornady .570...the thicker patch will tighten up the groups...should at least clover-leaf at 50yds if not make a single ragged hole...I think the .58 is an excellent caliber.Ace-Man said:
You are a tight patch fella. I can tell. It's hard to imagine .015 patch in this rifle let alone an .018. I'm familiar with these patches and even have some in the store.They are not popular here. The bore is pristine. I was the first to fire this rifle. I respect your opinion and will try a tighter patch.
It will probably require a short starter...just one sharp rap with the palm of the hand and once in, just seat it on down...every TC caliber I have uses nominal size round balls (ie: .570") and .018" pillow ticking...the thicker patches carry more lube, grip the balls tighter, wedge more material down into the grooves for a better seal, etc.Ace-Man said:
paulvallandigham
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I would suggest you back that load down to 70 grains, and see what kind of accuracy you get at 50 yds. off a benchrest. Only then do you want to begin to increase the charge by 5 grain increments to see if you can lower the POI and still get good groups. Before you decide on the hunting load, do some kind of comparison penetration testing, using a know deer killing rifle of any caliber, with any appropriate bullet, to compare with your .58 Cal. round ball. That heavy round ball should be able to kill and deer or elk shot within a reasonable range for your open sights.
Roundball,
I use a ball starter. By no means are the .010 patches easy to load. It takes moderate pressure to start the ball. So much so that I can feel the patched ball twisting as It follows the lands with tension as it slides down the barrel. With a .015 or even more so a .018 I'm using the Knight range rod, assuming I can get the ball started.
I use a ball starter. By no means are the .010 patches easy to load. It takes moderate pressure to start the ball. So much so that I can feel the patched ball twisting as It follows the lands with tension as it slides down the barrel. With a .015 or even more so a .018 I'm using the Knight range rod, assuming I can get the ball started.
You may not be able to use it then...I just figured a .58 boire was a .58 bore, etc...I use the Hornady .570, and TC's own .018" pillow ticking...I punch it in firmly with a short starter, then seat it with a solid 3/8" one piece brass rod...could be mine is difficult too but I've been doing it enough now that I don't pay attention to it anymore, dunno...so don't necessarily use what I suggested.Ace-Man said:
The main point was that thicker patches have always tightened groups for me, and I don't use anything less than a .015" even just for plinking steel targets...thicker patches put a little more lube into the bore as well...if you do try some let us know how it turned out.
EDIT...
PS: Thought just occurred to me...if you have a dial caliper, check a few of those Speer balls...I use Hornady .570s but one time I bought about 20 boxes of Remington "gold" colored .570s at a steal off an auction...turns out they were .575's with some occasionally over size at .577 and had to use a piece of 2 x 4 to get some of them started with my thick patches...maybe those Speers are running a few thousands over.
Will do roundball. I'll use the dial caliper on the balls. Little upset with T/C this evening. Just received a new Fox River 50 call 1 in 66 flint barrel. Their hook or plug at the base of the barrel did not even come close to fitting in my tang. It took about an half hour and a bastard file to make things right. I should not of had to do that.
Gosh I hate that you did all that filing...it's not all that uncommon when mating a new barrel to an existing tang...theres a simple fix for that (told to me by TC years ago) where you remove the tang, then holding the barrel in one hand, start the tang on the hook, then using a hammer just gently tap the 'backside' of the tang's octogonal face a couple times until it seats onto the hook all the way...remove the tang and repeat again if required and you're done...sometimes minor edge differences cause the mating to hang up until worn in...I've done it to a couple of new barrels over the years.Ace-Man said:
The tang is mated for another barrel as well and fits the other barrel perfectly. Because of that. Out came the file. I was very carefull as I filed thus the time spent. The new 1-66 barrel out of the box shot really well. Shooting a flint and not flinching is a mind game I'm determined to master.
Glad to hear it...my TC RB barrels are excellent shooters too.Ace-Man said:
I'm assuming you're referring to the pan flash and I'm sure you'll work right through it...I had an initial inherent fear of the fire in front of my face but when I realized it didn't bother anything...(like it hasn't bothered flintlock shooters for hundreds of years)...I settled into a groove and concentrated on the sights and just shooting...ignored the lock, etc.
Note: You can also easily dry fire just using priming powder if it takes that to work past any pan flash concerns...
I survived a number of years in the MARINES. Today is the Marine Corps Birthday by the way. I got to shoot allot of cool stuff and without going into detail. Recoil does not bother me. I know from my training it's a mental thing. The percussions I do not even anticipate. The flintlock I'm working on. In our store is a huge bull I shot in Utah. This bull was moving at 500+ not only laterally but vertically up a hillside. Without a thought, standing with no rest. I instantly calculated three feet of elevation and about a ten foot lead and dumped the bull. I say this admitting on the other hand a flea-bag coyote has the ability to completely un-nerve me.
