T/C versus CVA Perfect nipples

[Zahman]

Hey there, I'm a bit green in the blackpowder department! Nice to find this forum.
I've got my friend's '70s T/C Hawken and I'm having problems jamming the cap on the stock nipple for a reliable ignition. Is there a difference in the two types of nipple I mentioned, or are they similar enough for all practical purposes?

 

[Grenadier1758]

You have to make sure they are the same height. Both should be for a # 11 cap. Next be sure that the threads are correct for your T/C Hawken. The Hawken takes 1/4 by 28 threads. I've had the best results with a vented nipple such as the Uncle Mike's Hot Shot.

 

[Snuffy]

My idea of the perfect nipple is the T/C HotShot. I was using the stainless ones - then Red Hots. I found my hammer was blowing-back occasionally - my caps were sticking -- also found the nipple tip was deforming prematurely with the heavy lock spring that I prefer. That deformation was creating occasional mis-cap fires. That was always my warning light to buy a new nipple. I still buy nipples - but not anywhere as often.

The Hot Shot has a more durable tip - plus a side vent that inhibits hammer-flopping and back-pressure that causes caps to stick. That little hole puts a tiny flare in the spent cap -- making it easier to remove spent caps. Sometimes, my entire Dynamit Noble 1075 cap is missing after the shot.... disappears.

I like that!

 

[Landngroove]

The T/C nipple thread is 1/4 X 28, the CVA is metric. they are not interchangeable. If you are having trouble capping your nipple, it could be peened down some, from previous use. A new nipple is in order. T/C nipples for a Hawken do use a #11 cap.

 

[Zonie]

You might try a different brand of caps.
Although the brands say they are #11, they do vary from maker to maker.
I've had good luck with the CCI on my TC's but I did switch to Hot Shot nipples.

If you can't get a different brand of caps, you can remove the nipple and chuck it up in a electric drill (chuck on the unthreaded body, not the threads).
With the drill running, lightly lay a fine toothed flat file on the cone area and remove just a little material. Then try a cap for fit.
It should become tight just about the same time that it is bottoming out on the top of the nipple.

If it still gets tight before it's bottomed out, remove just a little more material with the flat file.

You might also want to remove the lock from the gun and lightly oil the internal parts including the tumbler where it fits the bridle (the bridge that supports the outter end) and the area where it goes thru the side plate.
Some of the old TC's locks haven't been oiled for years and may be a little sluggish.

zonie