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TC flintlock set
- Thread starter Osroc76
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I have the L&R lock on my T/C Hawken. The original lock fits back on the rifle, no problem, but there is no good reason to put it on, it doesn't work very well. The L&R works fine.
I do have one issue, though. The pan on the L&R is a little lower than the stock lock. This seems to cause the rifle to have a bit of delay. Not as bad as the stock lock.
You will need a shorter bolt to hold the lock on. The L&R has a threaded socket inside the lock plate instead of the threaded lock plate.
I do have one issue, though. The pan on the L&R is a little lower than the stock lock. This seems to cause the rifle to have a bit of delay. Not as bad as the stock lock.
You will need a shorter bolt to hold the lock on. The L&R has a threaded socket inside the lock plate instead of the threaded lock plate.
Last night
I just reread the article, the frizzen is supposed to be three pounds and the mainspring 10 pounds measured by the trigger scale hook on the **** jaw screw.
If it works for you, great. A lot of customizing in this game. I looked at the differences between them a while back (believe my photographs disappeared with Photobucket), and remember the Investarm locks having more of a belly, leaving between .100” and .040” gap between the bottom of the lock plate and wood in my TCs, and the Investarm was maybe .050” longer than the TC. There was variation with both manufacturers’ lock plates. Basically didn’t want to modify the locks or fill in any gap in the stocks and put them in a no man’s land. I swap a lot of parts in the shop and don't want any hybrids, for lack of a better term.
Guess that’s why L&R makes different replacement locks for Investarm/Lyman (Model#05) and TC (Model#03). And to be honest, I have found that the L&R lock plates were not exactly a perfect fit in their respective stocks, but much better than swapping TC and Investarm locks. Major task is usually just inletting for the different spring types, usually….
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Yes. The only issue you may have is if you are using a caplock stock, even then you only have to inlet one screw deeper.
I have noticed that with the lenght. The belly gap was no more than factory error for me. I certainly would have found .020 or larger unacceptable. The other is buried in the safe, however if memory serves me correctly it was acceptable too. I could see variations causing larger gaps or further issues not every rifle is the same.
I have yet to install my L&R rpl lock. I have a .58 GM barrel that I'm going to convert to flintlock and planning on using the L&R rpl lock on it. Looking forward to the challenge!
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Hello fellow bp enthusiasts. Searching for flintlock conversions for T/C Hawken brought me here. I wish to pursue converting my Hawken cap lock to flint. I have a second barrel to use with the L&R lock. Hoping to keep the rifle ‘convertible’ if you will. Cheers eh
Track of the Wolf will become one of your go to suppliers. They catalog a flint breech plug for the T/C barrel and of course the vent liner to get the flash from the pan to the charge. TotW is out of stock for the breech plugs.
Thompson Center hooked breech plug, flint, for 15/16" octagon barrel, 11/16-20 thread - Track of the Wolf
You have the barrel. You need the (L&R) replacement lock. You will need the T/C flint breech plug and a touch hole liner, under rib, tenons and sights.
Thompson Center hooked breech plug, flint, for 15/16" octagon barrel, 11/16-20 thread - Track of the Wolf
You have the barrel. You need the (L&R) replacement lock. You will need the T/C flint breech plug and a touch hole liner, under rib, tenons and sights.
