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Tea and Ammonia Stain
- Thread starter jbullard1
- Start date
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I have not heard that one.But you make a stain by breaking a plug of tobaco and let it sit in ammonia for a while
I've heard of staining split bamboo fly rods with ammonia. Goodwin Granger used the process on almost all of their fly rods. Heddon might have used it on some of their rods too. I don't think they used household ammonia though. They used gaseous ammonia which is extremely dangerous. It probably would work on gunstocks too. IMHO, there are easier ways to get the same effect. My guess would be that ammonia would cover up the figure in the wood. You could experiment though.
I think Stickley used to use ammonia fumes to darken his oak furniture. I found this with a quick search:
"G. Stickley published the following legend about the origin of ammonia fuming:
"Some oak boards stored in a stable in England were found after a time to have taken on a beautiful mellow brown tone and on investigation this change in color was discovered to be due to the ammonia fumes that naturally are present in stables."
[Gustav Stickley, in "Craftsman Homes" (1909)]
According to Gustav Stickley, this (color formation) phenomenon first became understood after work was done in his Craftsman Workshops which showed that the dark color was "due to the chemical affinity existing between ammonia and tannic acid of which there is a large percentage
present in white oak." Consequently, other tannin-containing woods such as cherry and chestnut could also be fumed, but the "fuming" process is
commonly done only with oak."
"G. Stickley published the following legend about the origin of ammonia fuming:
"Some oak boards stored in a stable in England were found after a time to have taken on a beautiful mellow brown tone and on investigation this change in color was discovered to be due to the ammonia fumes that naturally are present in stables."
[Gustav Stickley, in "Craftsman Homes" (1909)]
According to Gustav Stickley, this (color formation) phenomenon first became understood after work was done in his Craftsman Workshops which showed that the dark color was "due to the chemical affinity existing between ammonia and tannic acid of which there is a large percentage
present in white oak." Consequently, other tannin-containing woods such as cherry and chestnut could also be fumed, but the "fuming" process is
commonly done only with oak."
IMHO, there is no reason to jack around with make shift, half a$$ed stains. There are more very good stock stains avalable today than ever before.
Rather than use Southern ingeniuity to create your own stain that might produce a marginally good color, at best, and possibly damage your wood or endager your health at worst, spend a few bucks an buy good ready made stock stains.
If you want a period correct stain, try aquafortis.
It's available, it works, and the potentional danger is minimal.
J.D.
Rather than use Southern ingeniuity to create your own stain that might produce a marginally good color, at best, and possibly damage your wood or endager your health at worst, spend a few bucks an buy good ready made stock stains.
If you want a period correct stain, try aquafortis.
It's available, it works, and the potentional danger is minimal.
J.D.
Once upon a time I thought that natural stains like Tea, Coffee, Tobacco etc would be great to use.
After all, they will always put a terrible spot on the new white shirt your wife just bought for you.
The problems I found in using stains made from these is that although they will damage your shirt, they don't seem to have much effect on stock wood.
Not only that, but the little staining they do will fade over time if the wood is left exposed to light.
After all, they will always put a terrible spot on the new white shirt your wife just bought for you.
The problems I found in using stains made from these is that although they will damage your shirt, they don't seem to have much effect on stock wood.
Not only that, but the little staining they do will fade over time if the wood is left exposed to light.
Mike Brooks
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Couldn't have said it better myself. :haha: :thumbsup:
jbullard1 said:
Crazy? I doubt that. Uninformed might be a much better term. There are enough nuances to getting the color and undertones that looks right, using proven products, to completely baffle any creative soul.
I suggest researching staining techniques using
various colors and blends of proven products that will offer the challenge you apparently desire, and provide good, long lasting colors that will enhance your next project.
Good luck
J.D.
Guest
Well FWIW - the tea and ammonia is not an unknown method at all, but rather an old technique called fuming (often used with oak) - one can do it without using the tea, but the tea adds tannin to those woods which are lower in tannins. The tannins are then affected by the ammonia fumes.
Fuming works well (albeit it is noxious to work with - do it in a well ventialted are) and is similar to AF in that it is a chemical reaction and not a true dye. It is quite colorfast unlike many other "dyes". It will give a nice dark to even almost black.
Fuming works well (albeit it is noxious to work with - do it in a well ventialted are) and is similar to AF in that it is a chemical reaction and not a true dye. It is quite colorfast unlike many other "dyes". It will give a nice dark to even almost black.
Being a wood dealer. I have tried all kinds of experimentation on all kinds of wood. The most magnificent technique for working maple fiddle is tea and ammonia. However, it is a bit different than one thinks.
First, you want very strong tea...like 5 teabags in one cup of tea. After the wood has been completely sanded, you wipe on the tea liberally. Instantly, you place the stock in a tightly enclosed container like a wooden box or cardboard box but with a glass or plastic section so that you can view the tone of the stock. Wood like black walnut will turn BLACK rather quickly while a lighter wood like maple will take some hours. Now along with the stock, the box will also contain a tin of ammonia. However, this is NOT regular household ammonia. Place in the box a tin (like a tuna fish can tin) of COMMERCIAL AMMONIA. This is about 27% ammonia. Now do this outside, because it will set you free if you try this inside. It is MUCH stronger than household ammonia. Wife will make your life hell and have something to hold over your head FOREVER![url] Remember...OUTSIDE[/url]!
The beauty is beyond words. Don't sand afterwards as the stain is surface only! Let dry and apply finish of choice.
First, you want very strong tea...like 5 teabags in one cup of tea. After the wood has been completely sanded, you wipe on the tea liberally. Instantly, you place the stock in a tightly enclosed container like a wooden box or cardboard box but with a glass or plastic section so that you can view the tone of the stock. Wood like black walnut will turn BLACK rather quickly while a lighter wood like maple will take some hours. Now along with the stock, the box will also contain a tin of ammonia. However, this is NOT regular household ammonia. Place in the box a tin (like a tuna fish can tin) of COMMERCIAL AMMONIA. This is about 27% ammonia. Now do this outside, because it will set you free if you try this inside. It is MUCH stronger than household ammonia. Wife will make your life hell and have something to hold over your head FOREVER![url] Remember...OUTSIDE[/url]!
The beauty is beyond words. Don't sand afterwards as the stain is surface only! Let dry and apply finish of choice.
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