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Tenderfoot has a project

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Freezer

32 Cal
Joined
Jan 16, 2023
Messages
19
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Location
Southwestern Pa.
I built a T/C Hawken for a co-worker, and he gave me a CVA Kentucky Rifle kit as a “Thank You”. I found this site when researching CVA, a post "Does CVA equal junk?". I haven't heard much good about them, but now I have one. I want it so I can hunt Pa's traditional rifle season. I never owned a ML or shot a Ml, but I have built one and refurbished a lot of firearms. I have the tools and skills. (see my intro post)

I have a lot of questions, the first is when was it manufactured? It is a CVA Jukar Ser# 125xxx. Is this one of the early models with soft steel parts? Can I harden them myself, or should they be replaced? I'm not interested in spending $265 to replace the lock.

Second, When I started to fit the pieces I found the tang doesn't line up with the stock, it appears to be bent. I believe I need to heat and bend it into position. Am I correct? (see pics)

Third, the barrel has a flash hole drilled in it, would I be better to drill and tap the hole for an insert?
 

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Just put the tang in your vise with some leather to pad it and use the barrel to tweak it back to straight.

Almost all current barrels are made with softer steel with the exception of Green Mountain barrels, it is not something to worry about.

Most CVA barrels have a trick breech plug that can't be removed by normal means, they do this on purpose to keep the tinkerers who can't leave well enough alone from messing up the breech plug threads and getting a high velocity breech plug through their face after they "work" on the gun.

Yours appears to have a conventional breech plug that can be removed but not being a CVA expert I can't tell for sure. All my flintlock guns have white lightning liners in them. I wouldn't install a liner in a gun unless I could pull the breech plug to make sure the installed liner isn't protruding into the barrel after installation.
 
Back in the day, I used to say: "There is Thompson-Center and then there is everybody else." In terms of mass produced guns, I would say that still holds true. That said, I've sold plenty of CVA guns over the years and honestly, I haven't had just too many problems with 'em from customers. We sold the parts that commonly failed or went missing right in the store.

I certainly would NOT say that "CVA equals junk". They are what they are and will do what you ask of them, so long as you don't demand custom rifle performance. I wouldn't stick a whole lot of money in it, just clean it up, true up the bent tang and start shooting it. You may need to heat the tang up to bend it, but probably not. If you do, expect to have to refinish it.

You should not need a flash hole liner until the hole in the barrel becomes too large... and that may not happen in your lifetime. You can always drill and tap it later if the gun turns out to be a one-hole wonder, but those guns are rare even with custom guns.

You got it for free and free is always good. Eventually, if you stick with this field of endeavor, you will acquire other guns... I've got a dozen or so, depending upon how one counts. That said, there is always room for another gun in the rack, and if there is not, you need another rack.
 
I’ve a couple of CVA Hawken rifles and both shot really well
 
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you can make a good rifle ( my son sent this as a covid project kit) not what I would have bought, have fun and tune (or replace the lock) weaken the frizen spring reshape the frizen foot (to open wider) the rifle is now waiting till grandson is older, he likes red. shoots good with65 grns 3f swiss #40 pocket drill and a .490 ball tallow lube
I also moved the trigger pivot point(moving it higher) pinned through the stock not the cheap pivot provided
 
Thank you so much, I feel a lot better about this project! The off center tang had me a bit concerned. I have four firearm projects going right now. A custom 6.5-06 Mauser is almost done, a double stack Para Ordnance 45 is waiting on parts, and a 22 mag salvage job is also waiting on parts.

As I tinker with this ML I'll take the lock apart and polish it, I've read this will really improve the trigger pull. I know all the cautions. I'm also planning on some bedding work as I finish the fitting process.

Is there a registry where I can find out when this rifle was produced? My curiosity is killing me!

I plan on using Laurel Mountain Permalyn to finish the stock, I am trying to decide, should I stain it with Minwax Gun Stock stain or leave it natural maple? What say ye?

I needed to draw file the T/C barrel, is that necessary or advisable on a CVA? It doesn't mention it in the instruction like T/C did. Yes, I read the instructions. I'm trying to decide if I'll rust blue it, or use Oxpho Blue. I've had great results with Oxpho Blue.

As for getting deep into this BP obsession, NO! I want to hunt longer and more. I have a small house, and I'm working in my bedroom on a workmate bench/vise. I don't need another rack, I need a bigger house with a man cave. I can work in the shed but "Baby it's cold outside".

I don't need another gun
I don't need another gun
I don't need another gun

Meh...Maybe one more
 
I have two of these rifles in caplock. One was factory finished and belonged to my father. The other was a kit my brother picked up for me at a pawn shop for $35 ish dollars. I put it together before I could drive and while not perfect it does shoot pretty well. If memory serves me correctly dad's shot well too.

I purchased a flintlock used thinking I may someday convert the one over to flintlock. I've not done that yet as the lock needs some tuning.

Good luck with your project! Like others have said, I wouldn't label the lock good or bad until you have tried it.
 
Thank you so much, I feel a lot better about this project! The off center tang had me a bit concerned. I have four firearm projects going right now. A custom 6.5-06 Mauser is almost done, a double stack Para Ordnance 45 is waiting on parts, and a 22 mag salvage job is also waiting on parts.

As I tinker with this ML I'll take the lock apart and polish it, I've read this will really improve the trigger pull. I know all the cautions. I'm also planning on some bedding work as I finish the fitting process.

Is there a registry where I can find out when this rifle was produced? My curiosity is killing me!

I plan on using Laurel Mountain Permalyn to finish the stock, I am trying to decide, should I stain it with Minwax Gun Stock stain or leave it natural maple? What say ye?

I needed to draw file the T/C barrel, is that necessary or advisable on a CVA? It doesn't mention it in the instruction like T/C did. Yes, I read the instructions. I'm trying to decide if I'll rust blue it, or use Oxpho Blue. I've had great results with Oxpho Blue.

As for getting deep into this BP obsession, NO! I want to hunt longer and more. I have a small house, and I'm working in my bedroom on a workmate bench/vise. I don't need another rack, I need a bigger house with a man cave. I can work in the shed but "Baby it's cold outside".

I don't need another gun
I don't need another gun
I don't need another gun

Meh...Maybe one more
Why did you need to "draw file the T/C barrel"? I have never seen any instruction in any manual advising anyone to do this. Normally it is only done when you are reshaping the barrel or making one from scratch. If all you wanted to do was remove the finish... there are MUCH easier ways to accomplish this.
 
You don't need to draw file the barrel, if you want to clean it up to blue or brown use some 220 grit wet or dry sandpaper and block off wood to polish the barrel flats. There is no need to polish it any further, bluing and browning need a little rougher surface to get the best effect.
 
CVA and more low priced guns are ‘junk’ compared to custom.
In a flintlock they can cause endless problems. Their wood is low quality. And they sort of look traditional.
But….
They are safe, shoot as well as expensive guns and look good if you don’t try to compare them to a two to five grand gun.
Make one up, throw it in with some average nineteenth century guns and take a black and white photo even the most hard core traditionalist will have a hard time picking the CVA out of the group.
Take some time assembling and an old CVA is a great gun.
No it is not fully HC. And no it can’t compare to a custom. But it or traditions or such can be a number one rifle.
Gateway drug or life time heirloom, the only way anyone can scoff at it is via a snob factor
 
I'm looking forward to this project now!

The T/C instructions and videos I watched all suggested draw filing the barrel. It was necessary as the octagon barrel was cupped. Draw filing brought it to a flat surface. I took my time hand finishing the barrel and used Van's Bluing solution and a heat gunned to blue the barrel. It came out great! It is dark, deep and rich with no Blotches. I bedded the barrel at the breach and under the barrel pin. Honestly, the T/C Hawken turned out fantastic. I really didn't want to give it back to the kid. It was a gratis job for a broke butt family man, and I had 80 to 100 hours into it (look at my intro post). It's too last for Pa's muzzle-loader season, so I have time to tinker with this project. I'd still like to know the age of this gun. One non-traditional thing I'll look for are peep sights, either dove tailed or tang mount I'm 66 and the eyes aren't what they used to be.
 
Lotta trash talk on CVA on this site, people are always going to have their opinions, some stronger than others. Personally my two CVAs have beautiful wood stocks and both are well balanced shooters...that being said, the breech design is a pita to work on and can make inconsistent ignition a thing in some situations, especially if the powder sits for a length of time. The single trigger on my Stalker leaves a lot to be desired. The double trigger on my Mountain rifle is perfect and the gun is an absolute tack driver with a patched .490 round ball. I don't doubt there's some lemons out there, but I like mine 🤷‍♂️
 
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