That's not a ram rod!

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Jarikeen

40 Cal.
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I ordered a fibreglass ram rod cut to suit my barrel length, plus a few other bits and pieces from a recommended muzzleloading supplier. When I received the rod I was very disapointed - it was not fibreglass, but a bendy plastic noddle with a brass fitting. How's this dam thing supposed to work? Is it worth keeping?
Cheers
 
I got one like that..... I only use it for swabbing the bore clean, reckon it would break if used as a ramrod.
Smokey.
 
I got one of them Black "Bendy" Ramrods and I use it for everything from swabing to ramming home a load.It's supposed to be non-abbrasive on the muzzle and un-breakable.
I'll leave the unbreakable part to someone else.....I'm a Little heavy handed :winking:
 
I have one on each of the three rifles I own and another that is longer for cleaning.Never had a problem.I have over a few hundred shots on one rifle and the rod has always held up.I just use short strokes.
 
Jarikeen said:
I ordered a fibreglass ram rod cut to suit my barrel length, plus a few other bits and pieces from a recommended muzzleloading supplier. When I received the rod I was very disapointed - it was not fibreglass, but a bendy plastic noddle with a brass fitting. How's this dam thing supposed to work? Is it worth keeping?
Cheers

The stiff one is not fiberglass - it's (black) anodized.
I buy them RIGHT HERE.

T/C uses these for their Omegas, Black Diamonds and possibly the Encores too. You won't bend them & accessories screw-in on either end.
 
I ain't managed to break mine - yet. And that's using it on 2 different rifles. I use a short starter some times tho, takes a lot of the strain of the long'un. :bull:
 
I must be a little "heavy handed" as well. I broke one that came with a traditions Deerhunter flinter.

Luckily, I always have a spare ramrod or two around somewhere.
 
Fellas. Those wood rods were never intended to be run down the barrel in one stroke, like you can do with a modern, brass, aluminum, or steel range rod. The technique to use is to do a hand-over-hand method, where your hand is never more than 8 inches above the muzzle of the gun. Don't wrap your thumb around the wooden rod. If there is an ember that lights the powder in the barrel, and sends the ball and ramrod back out, it will snap off that thumb before you can say, " Damn!" Use what I call a " Monkey Grip ", because it reminds me of how urangutans use their hands when moving from branch to branch in trees. Wrap the fingers around the rod, but tuck your thumb down on top of the web and knuckle of your index finger. If that rod begins to move, the normal human reaction to protect fingers, is to open the hand. You may get a little friction burn, but you should not lose any fingers if the gun goes off. I turn one hand outward, and keep the other hand facing palm toward me. That keeps me from bending or warping the wooden rod, which keeps it from being broken.

If you are loading a percussion rifle, which shoots best when the powder is compressed, you can be fairly manly in the way you seat the ball, or bullet on the powder. But with a flintlock, you want to run the ball down to a mark on the rod, where the ball just touches the powder charge, but does not crush, or compact any of the powder.

With the modern wonderguns, that shoot jacketed pistol bullets wrapped in plastic shoes, you can run them down on that fake powder anyway you choose. However, that is where we see the most " ramrods" broken these days. Far too much testosterone going to waste on those rods, guys. I should think you could find some better way to use up all that male sex hormone before you come to the range to shoot.
 
paulvallandigham said:
If you are loading a percussion rifle, which shoots best when the powder is compressed, you can be fairly manly in the way you seat the ball, or bullet on the powder. But with a flintlock, you want to run the ball down to a mark on the rod, where the ball just touches the powder charge, but does not crush, or compact any of the powder.
I just started shooting flinters awhile ago so I dont really understand the difference in seating the ball in a caplocker and a flinter.Is that because some of the pressure comes out of the vent on the flinter?Im gonna try that hand over hand thing.As always you have great advice. :thumbsup:
 
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