The sweet smell of FF geox

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RUPPB

32 Cal.
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Feb 18, 2008
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Ran my first rounds of FF last night. Went good. However, it likes to burn, cause cuts and blow out my patches, which is good because that means the geox has more snort than the "sub" i was useing?? the first shot blew the patch out in the area where the ball sat. i am trying different mat'l , and wally world has many more... the rest seem good. a tad brown'd and tore on two spots (maybe a sharp rifleing still i dunno.) but it groups ok. i am going to try FFF soon, all i could get was the FF... BUT NOT ONE MIS, DEAD, OR HANG FIRE. the sub?? many of those... my loads are as follows 80 grs FF, .20 cotton (same stuff as dikies coverall's) and a .490 ball. Man is this addictin!!! :surrender:
 
RUPPB said:
However, it likes to burn, cause cuts and blow out my patches, which is good because that means the geox has more snort than the "sub" i was useing??
If you're patches are burning through, try putting more lube on the patches to protect the material from burning;
 
I thought that too. But they are soaked, when I push the ball down it runs the barrel on the muzzle. I'm tring cooking lard now. i'm going to try olive oil again with the geox. Next lube will be moose lube......
 
I don't understand what you mean by "... It runs the barrel on the muzzle". Sometimes the crown on the muzzle is not done well, and sharp edges tear, or cut patching material. Then with hot charges, they burn through as the ball leaves the barrel.

Burned, or cut patches, do not produce good accuracy. I only used .010" thick patches on a .45 caliber rifle with thin grooves, and a .440 ball. If I tried to use .005, or .015 thick patches, they would either burn or cut or tear on the rifling. I began using Hoppes Black Solve, and lube, but found that Young Country 103( Now NL1000, Bore Butter, etc.) worked better to keep the patching from burning.

On my .50 caliber rifle, I now use a .015 thick patch with bore butter, and have no burned patches. Accuracy is as good as I can hold.
 
OOPS I shoulda wrote " the lube drips down the muzzle when loaded" patches are plenty wet.
 
If your lube is dripping down the bore from the muzzle, you are using too thin a lube, and/or too much of it. I have used liquid lubes in certain guns for years. But, I found out that I needed to squeeze them out so that they were only " Damp", for most consistent performance. Otherwise, the liquid( usually water, but oils also do bad things to powder) would kill some or all the powder charge. I switched to using Young Country 103 lube, which has gone through several name changes since, and is commonly known as bore butter, and have not had any problems with powder charges being spoiled. I am trying ballistol, and am going to make up some " moose snot", using Ballistoil, instead of castor oil, or olive oil. The choice is because I have a large can of Ballistol, a small bottle of olive oil I use for cooking some things, and no castor oil. No other reason. I am going to try Dutch Schoultz' Dry lube recipe, using a mix of ballistol and water to soak the patching material, and then let the material dry. I have great expectations for that lube based on Dutch's literature, and conversations I have had with Dutch on the phone.
 
I need to cough up the 15 bucks and just buy that info from dutch's web site..... I know it is worth it.
 
Crisco. Melt the stuff in a pan - throw in our patches and let sit for a while - remove from heat source - let set until cool - pluck patches from Crisco and store in Altoids box untlil ready to use. NOTE: eat Altoids or use them in Buck and Ball cartredges before putting greasy patches in can. A little grease never hurt anybody and the left over can be used to groom ones mustaches or slick back the hair. Like ZZ Top says "Every girl's crazy 'bout a sharp dressed man". :thumbsup:
 
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