Thimble Skirt Question?

[Erzulis boat]

I want to positively anchor the entry thimble skirt on Cherry, as the entire build is focused on durabilty.
I am not 100% PC on this build (as I am sure You know by now!), but would welcome some ideas.
Solder a stud or two?
Tiny smoothed over nails?
How was it done in the day?
Thanks-

 

EB, I just screwed the tang down like you would on a sxs entry thimble.[url] http://www.telusplanet.net/public/tetachuk/45entry.jpg[/url]
You'll have to drill an access hole in the bottom of the barrel channel, drill the wood and entry tang, tap the tang and use a ultra fine thread screw. Something like a 6-48. No need to add a lug. The wood is way too thin to allow it anyway. Countersink the wood but just enough so the sides of the screw head are flush. be VERY careful as there is not much wood here to work with. Then mark the position of the screw head, take it out and file it concave to match the rr groove so it won't interfere with the ramrod. Put the screw in and file it off flush with the tang. In my case, the neck was so skinny and the material was so thin that the head of the tang wouldn't behave itself so this is what i did to "tame the savage beast". Just one way to do it. hope it helps.

Cody

 

[Stumpkiller]

Inlet and pinned. The fit in the channel will keep it from teetering. You could even dovetail the rear edge into the stock if it is a flat finial.

The rammer will further support it for any "rough handling" it may receive.

 

[Erzulis boat]

Holy Smokes Cody!
That picture depicts a super sweet idea!
The fastener is part of the embellishment, that is crafty indeed!

Stumpkiller, is the skirt pinned also? or just the cylindrical portion of the thimble?

 

[rich pierce]

I inlet them then drill them for pins then take the pipe out and bend the tang down a tad. Then re-install with pins and it is sort of "sprung down".

 

[Stumpkiller]

The pins are through the flanges above the cylinder (it's a forging, so the lug on the top is doubled and relatively thick). It's tight into the channel and inlay cavity so it doesn't wobble.

As Cody pointed out: you're fastening metal to a 1/4" walled tube of wood that drops to a 1/8" web above the channel. The less holes in it the better (IMHO). Any impact that would knock a single or double pinned entry pipe loose or clean out will pull away that thin wood no matter how well anchored you make it. Relax.