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Thompson Center Renegade Hunter
- Thread starter mjac
- Start date
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It ain't the trigger that needs "lightening" it's the locks sear and tumbler engagement,
And after all these years it's still something I tend to leave alone.
As mentioned in another thread polishing the components helps alot but I've never really messed with real modifications. You can very easily turn a safely functioning lock into a hazard to have on the range or in the field.
Wacth for a post by robtatoo coming up soon, he said he was going to post the technique with photos,
And after all these years it's still something I tend to leave alone.
As mentioned in another thread polishing the components helps alot but I've never really messed with real modifications. You can very easily turn a safely functioning lock into a hazard to have on the range or in the field.
Wacth for a post by robtatoo coming up soon, he said he was going to post the technique with photos,
Walks with fire
54 Cal.
I think if you replace the spring that is pushing down on the sear arm with a lighter one (like a ball point pen spring) or clip off a few coils you will find it makes a pretty nice trigger. This is not advice on trigger modification because of potential liability issues. Only qualified gunsmiths or the TC factory should do any modification.
When the trigger is pulled the sear arm is pushed against this spring so a spring that compresses more easily makes for a lighter trigger pull and the length of the spring has a great affect on any trigger creep. I have flintlocks and don't know what a percussion lock looks like inside but having replaced my PA Hunter's lock spring I like it alot better than the original. :thumbsup:
When the trigger is pulled the sear arm is pushed against this spring so a spring that compresses more easily makes for a lighter trigger pull and the length of the spring has a great affect on any trigger creep. I have flintlocks and don't know what a percussion lock looks like inside but having replaced my PA Hunter's lock spring I like it alot better than the original. :thumbsup:
One problem is slop in the slot on the trigger plate. All my single trigger T/Cs have that lost motion to one degree or another. Material must be added to make the slot narrower. Then remove it as necessary to more closely fit. The width of the trigger plate must stay the same or it wont fit in the guard housing. I think T/C left this loose because this clearance is dependent on the stock.
There may be a way to run an adjustment screw from underneath, so you could assemble the lock and trigger then adjust the wiggle out. Maybe a spring to close the gap [but not drop the sear]. Ill be working on this.
In any event, be careful. If you cant do it safely, then leave it alone.
Good Luck, P.A.
There may be a way to run an adjustment screw from underneath, so you could assemble the lock and trigger then adjust the wiggle out. Maybe a spring to close the gap [but not drop the sear]. Ill be working on this.
In any event, be careful. If you cant do it safely, then leave it alone.
Good Luck, P.A.
Hmmmm, the last three posters have me concerned. I read the lock polishing thread by Robtatto, studied it, printed it out and studied it some more. Seemed pretty straight forward. Now I am beginning to think is something a novice like me should back away from. How would I know if or when I screwed it up?
Actually as it is, the trigger on my T/C Renegade Hunter is way better than my T/C Renegade. Maybe I should just leave it alone.
Actually as it is, the trigger on my T/C Renegade Hunter is way better than my T/C Renegade. Maybe I should just leave it alone.
Well the "polishing" as robtattoo lay's out is really just doing the finish work that a custom gunmaker would do on a lock/trigger.
It's something that "factories" don't take the time to do because it cut's into profit.
It only gets scary when you go after the tumbler sear with a file or other serious modifications, polishing the surface for less drag doesn't remove enough metal to change saftey issues.
It's something that "factories" don't take the time to do because it cut's into profit.
It only gets scary when you go after the tumbler sear with a file or other serious modifications, polishing the surface for less drag doesn't remove enough metal to change saftey issues.
Walks with fire
54 Cal.
In my particular case I wanted a 3-4 lb. trigger pull on my single trigger TC PA Hunter rifle that I use as a switch caliber/barrel/twist rifle. I knew that TC would not make such an adjustment and that there are huge liability issues surrounding trigger modification that most gunsmiths won't modify a factory trigger.
So; I set out to take my lock apart and see if I could improve it on my own; which other than needing to send out for some replacement parts that I ruined because of the learning curve it has cost very little in time or money and I have a very good understanding of a TC Flint Lock.
It was worth the effort in my case and the trigger is outstanding and safe as well. There are a lot of things that can improve the TC lock. The new designed locks with the better frizzen and hammer are outstanding locks and a vast improvement over the original flintlock design.
Other than polishing, replacing a spring and filling the gap between the pan and frizzen bottom so it's water tight I did very little but it works so much better in the field. I just love a good flint lock rifle.
So; I set out to take my lock apart and see if I could improve it on my own; which other than needing to send out for some replacement parts that I ruined because of the learning curve it has cost very little in time or money and I have a very good understanding of a TC Flint Lock.
It was worth the effort in my case and the trigger is outstanding and safe as well. There are a lot of things that can improve the TC lock. The new designed locks with the better frizzen and hammer are outstanding locks and a vast improvement over the original flintlock design.
Other than polishing, replacing a spring and filling the gap between the pan and frizzen bottom so it's water tight I did very little but it works so much better in the field. I just love a good flint lock rifle.
makeumsmoke said:
I wrote Davis regarding buying one of their triggers for my Renegade Hunter. They do not make one for that model.
Fitting a Davis DS, which is a drop in on a Renegade, would require considerable work to fit to my Renegade Hunter.
Now if I could trade my Renegade Hunter stock for a Renegade, I would most certainly look into a Davis for it.
Thanks for your suggestion.
