Tip for Ramrod Removal

[Pork Chop]

Someone mentioned this as an aside a while back, and I forgot about it. I wish I had remembered it as I broke a ramrod that got jammed. If you have a ramrod that is not playing nice, just take a boot lace or a rawhide strip and double hitch it to the ramrod. Use that to pull as it will give you a better grip!

 

[Pittsburghunter]

Or if stuck real bad tie it off to a tree or something and pull the gun towards you, butt first of course.

 

[roundball]

Or if stuck real bad tie it off to a tree or something and pull the gun towards you, butt first of course.

T-handles for me...

 

[Pittsburghunter]

Me too Roundball, but I think he was talking about the regular rods that come with the guns. They are not threaded on both ends.

 

this is threason i make my own they are threaded on both ends. just get a oak or maple dowel the same size and order new ends. i cant remember where i got mine but the work great.

 

[roundball]

Me too Roundball, but I think he was talking about the regular rods that come with the guns. They are not threaded on both ends.

Yes, I'm talking about the rods for the rifles...I carry a T-handle in every caliber's pouch...every rifle rod I've ever bought was threaded on both ends.

Some of my early TC hawkens rods were 10/32" on one end and 8/32" on the other, so I drilled / re-tapped the small end to 10/32" also

 

you can also use 2 loading blocks opposite each other with the rod through the hole and just pick up.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

A good old trick indeed.

 

works almost every time i only had one that it didnt work on. that on i had to leave the woods and get it out now i keep my dry patches in a different pocket :winking:

 

[Pittsburghunter]

Ok just checked again and all the caplock rifles I have are threaded on one end only with the exception of my T/C Express rifle it has a very small hole on the center of the "loading cup" looks to be about 3/32" diameter. I have never seen attachments for something that small.

The Crockett I didn't count it came with a metal rod.

 

[CrackStock]

Here are a few products:
[url] http://www.amback.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=47714[/url]
[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories/partList.aspx?catID=1&subID=19&styleID=1065[/url]
[url] http://www.oct-country.com/products3.php?productid=332[/url]

CS

 

[Pork Chop]

Those are neat, thanks, but I did not have them on hand and did not want to wait for a shipment to arrive. I ended up breaking a plastic T handle, but think that the cord trick would have worked...

 

[CrackStock]

If the need is immediate -- vise grips.

CS

 

[Stumpkiller]

If the need is immediate -- vise grips.

I'd recommend you wrap the rammer with leather before applying the Vice-grips, and start "soft" as it will easily crush the wood.

I had the happy chance to pull a ball this past week. Had double-powdered the ball! First time I remember having done that. That's what I get for walking up to the targets and futzing around with them as I loaded. Don't take much to get my narrow-gauge mind off the track.

The old rolling hitch saved the day, once again. inthink it was Superflint that first suggested that remedy. Bless his self. :thumbsup:

I carry two feet of tarred marline (1/8" hemp that's been tarred) and 16" of 1" wide leather strap in my tool roll for rammer removal. Sometimes just wrapping the leather around the rod is enough added purchase to get things moving. Sometimes not.

By luck, I had just that morning swapped out the rammer I had been using that has NO threaded tips (it uses a helical tow worm for cleaning). I would have been S.O.L. with that one.

 

[Black Hand]

I like to make my ram-rods as long as possible, so at least an inch or so is showing with it in the unloaded barrel. I then drill a cross-hole about 3/4 to 1 inch from the end and use a finish nail as a T-handle. Saves on weight and clutter in my bag. You can really get grip to get the rod out.
Black Hand