Welcome from Maine. Jukar/CVA lock, looks like someone might have got parts from Dixie Gun Works and built a rifle.
Nit Wit
Nit Wit
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Totally new to all of this
- Thread starter Aleksrgill
- Start date
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Welcome to the forum. 
It looks like our members have already covered a lot of the bases here but the best place to be talking about the rifle is in the Percussion Rifles area of the forum.
If you buy any percussion caps, please don't try to see if they will fire on the gun before you varify that it is unloaded. So far it seems to be but I didn't see the test done that would be needed and this is a Welcome to the Camp area and as I said, the discussion should be in the Percussion section.
It looks like our members have already covered a lot of the bases here but the best place to be talking about the rifle is in the Percussion Rifles area of the forum.
If you buy any percussion caps, please don't try to see if they will fire on the gun before you varify that it is unloaded. So far it seems to be but I didn't see the test done that would be needed and this is a Welcome to the Camp area and as I said, the discussion should be in the Percussion section.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2018
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I live west of you in Ashe County, near West Jefferson. If you are planning a mountain anytime, maybe we could meet and I can help figure out what you have and help you get started on the road to black powder addiction. And if yours is not shootable, I have several that are, just to let you see what is possible.
JCKelly
45 Cal.
With all respect, I believe this rifle was made in someone's home shop using widely available parts. This rifle was not made in Europe.
If you wish to shoot it, my suggestion is to sell it to someone who likes the looks. Then buy yourself a Traditions (www.midwayusa.com, ~$500 - 1000)) or Pedersoli. If you choose to use Pyrodex it is reputed to shoot accurately but is corrosive as H###. Clean well.
If you wish to shoot it, my suggestion is to sell it to someone who likes the looks. Then buy yourself a Traditions (www.midwayusa.com, ~$500 - 1000)) or Pedersoli. If you choose to use Pyrodex it is reputed to shoot accurately but is corrosive as H###. Clean well.
Built from misc. mostly modern parts. The breech plug and tang look to be from a Thompson Center Hawken flintlock with a drum and nipple screwed into the touch hole. Lock is CVA.
Welcome from Florida!
SamTex1949
32 Cal.
YES ! contact this guy ! form a good friendship and get to shootin !!
I live west of you in Ashe County, near West Jefferson. If you are planning a mountain anytime, maybe we could meet and I can help figure out what you have and help you get started on the road to black powder addiction. And if yours is not shootable, I have several that are, just to let you see what is possible.
Aleksrgill,
The first thing to find out is whether something is in the barrel. Might be a load. Or just the ball, which does happen as my friends here will admit. I suggest NOT removing the barrel from the stock. Bring it to a club shoot and let a gunmaker who does this for a living or a hobby assist you with that. Both clubs have gunmakers in their membership.
I would not put a cap on the nipple until I am absolutely sure the barrel is empty. Worst case scenario would be a load of smokeless powder in the barrel (hey, its black, folks would tell me), and the ball. Or a double load of black powder and the ball. Once the barrel is declared clear and safe, then you are on solid ground, so to speak.
I have had customers in their zeal, cracking/breaking the stock's forearm in forcing the barrel out of its channel. So, leave that to experienced hands to perform. Since the initials are on the barrel, chances are they would be the maker's, so no real need to remove the barrel from the stock.
The lock is a "Maslin" design, and looks like a CVA lock. The only other lock maker that had that design was Russ Hamm out of Fort Myers, FL. But lock parts are available for it if its a CVA Spanish lock. I remember also that L & R made Maslin-style locks. However, I think this one is a CVA/Traditions manufacture.
Hope you can make it to either club's match. The Lafayette Long Rifles get-together is about a week from Saturday and gas supplies may be more favorable to make the trip then. Hope this helps.
The first thing to find out is whether something is in the barrel. Might be a load. Or just the ball, which does happen as my friends here will admit. I suggest NOT removing the barrel from the stock. Bring it to a club shoot and let a gunmaker who does this for a living or a hobby assist you with that. Both clubs have gunmakers in their membership.
I would not put a cap on the nipple until I am absolutely sure the barrel is empty. Worst case scenario would be a load of smokeless powder in the barrel (hey, its black, folks would tell me), and the ball. Or a double load of black powder and the ball. Once the barrel is declared clear and safe, then you are on solid ground, so to speak.
I have had customers in their zeal, cracking/breaking the stock's forearm in forcing the barrel out of its channel. So, leave that to experienced hands to perform. Since the initials are on the barrel, chances are they would be the maker's, so no real need to remove the barrel from the stock.
The lock is a "Maslin" design, and looks like a CVA lock. The only other lock maker that had that design was Russ Hamm out of Fort Myers, FL. But lock parts are available for it if its a CVA Spanish lock. I remember also that L & R made Maslin-style locks. However, I think this one is a CVA/Traditions manufacture.
Hope you can make it to either club's match. The Lafayette Long Rifles get-together is about a week from Saturday and gas supplies may be more favorable to make the trip then. Hope this helps.
Last edited:
Squatch84
40 Cal
Welcome from WV!
Make sure the barrel is well oiled before you fire it. If you'd like to get rid of that rust, rebluing is pretty easy and dirt cheap, and most bottles of bluing fluid come with some pretty clear instructions. I'd say take some steel wool to that brass, and it's good as new.
