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Goes the other order. Get your lock correct, then drill the hole. Easy.Little squeamish on getting the lock just right to meet the touch hole in the barrel,
Goes the other order. Get your lock correct, then drill the hole. Easy.Little squeamish on getting the lock just right to meet the touch hole in the barrel,
If you decide to go with a TOTW kit, call and ask them if the stock is available without the lock pre-inlet. Building the kit is easier when you have the freedom to place the lock anywhere you want relative to the vent. I have built three TOTW kits, the French D style trade gun, the 1742 Long Land Pattern musket and most recently their Jaeger rifle kit. They all turned out quite nice. With the French trade gun, I ordered the stock without the lock pre- inlet. On the Brown Bess the alignment was fine. The Jaeger required some extra work to get the pan and vent into proper alignment.Little squeamish on getting the lock just right to meet the touch hole in the barrel, getting the alignment right.
Yep, thanks for the reminder. What I meant was just getting the proper fit/alignment. I may just take a road trip to Track and look over their kits and talk with them. Has been a while since I've been that far north into Minnesota. Not discounting Kibler's kit though by any means.Goes the other order. Get your lock correct, then drill the hole. Easy.
Kibler would be a relatively easy kit for a beginner but no, their Colonial doesn't come in 36 caliber as most pre Rev War long guns would not have.
From what I've gleaned from the people on this site and in other research is most pre Rev War guns were somewhat large caliber smoothbore fowlers. Apparently with American flintlock rifles the most common calibers were .40 to .48 as these were primarily hunting guns. If my recollection is correct I believe the smaller (smaller than .40 caliber) mostly came about after the Rev War but most likely existed in limited numbers prior to that. I believe the smaller caliber rifles have primarily been attributed to the economic crisis of the 1780s at the end of the war as the economy was in a shambles and people couldn't afford many items they could before. Add to that our ability to manufacture powder was mediocre at best having relied on France and Holland for most of our powder throughout the Revolution making powder fairly expensive even after the war.Without having been properly educated over the years on alot of flint rifle information maybe I've been sort of wrongly informed, can't say. I sort of recall reading that many of the pre 1800 rifles were in smaller calibers also, 45 and below. Getting the right books will help. Maybe someone can write a paragraph response on what caliber the majority of them were or provide me a link. Would appreciate it. Still want a 36 caliber rifle though, 40 would work also.
When I first started shooting cap and ball back in '72 and reading some and looking at flint rifles, I always dreamed of making a flinter. Was just thinking ifin' I had back then and continued to do so, I'd be a seasoned builder by now. My first and only muzzle loader is my TC Hawken 45 caliber which I still have. I did cut off the trigger guard spur which I didn't care for and used cold bluing to darken all the brass, refinished the stock also which looks better now than when I bought it. I still shoot around a dozen cap revolvers and three cartridge Colt open top conversions (44 Colt) that all I shoot out of them are cast 200 grainers and black FF. Enjoy much!!!!!
Thank you 'billraby' for your latest posting. I've the necessary patience to do a build, I always do the old adage of 'measure twice, cut once'-take it alot to measure 'multiple times to make it right, then do' on my projects no matter what it is. Have faith in myself to do a kit, but I'm a perfectionist at heart and mind and don't want to mess up a $800-1200 kit gun with a wrong move.
Thank you 'billraby' for your latest posting. I've the necessary patience to do a build, I always do the old adage of 'measure twice, cut once'-take it alot to measure 'multiple times to make it right, then do' on my projects no matter what it is. Have faith in myself to do a kit, but I'm a perfectionist at heart and mind and don't want to mess up a $800-1200 kit gun with a wrong move.
Amen !The only people that don't make mistakes are the ones that don't do anything. And yes, you will make mistakes on your first rifle. And the second one. Also the 50th one. Its part of life. There are some people on here that are building amazing rifles. Every one of them had the their first rifle build. If it is something that you want to do, the best thing is to just go for it.
Be mindfull they have that little shop open limited hrs,, an it ain't like driven "up-north" anymore. Where their at is just like the cities now. They're just on the north side of it! Your gonna have to drive through city traffic alone for an hour (or more) just to get too'm from the south. Count on making a day (maybe two) of it.I may just take a road trip to Track and look over their kits and talk with them. Has been a while since I've been that far north into Minnesota
With the exceptions of Kibler and Chambers everyone sells the same kits
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________From what I hear you might have to wait a while to get a Kibler kit also. Of course call to see how long it takes.
Unfortunately Bill Raby got kicked off of you tube. You Tube didn't like the gun building and would not work with him. You can catch his 4 Bore build on Rumble. I am waiting on pins a needles for him to upload the Lancaster videos to Rumble. He says it takes a lot of bandwidth so it may be a while.As mentioned, there's Pecatonica with a little more variety than Track of the Wolf. Most kits are a collection of parts. Most will require a fairly large collection of hand tools and a drill press to complete.
Have you obtained any of the gun building books or tutorial videos available? Good books are "The Art of Building a Pennsylvania Long Rifle", Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle, an illustrated instruction manual, by Dixon, Ehrig, and Miller - Track of the Wolf or "The Gunsmith of Grenville County", The Gunsmith of Grenville County, Building the American Longrifle illustrated instruction manual, revised edition, spiral bound, by Peter A. Alexander - Track of the Wolf.
You can look for the video series by Bill Raby. You can choose from his series on Lancaster Rifles. Bill Raby - YouTube
Good choices for kits include Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply, Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply (longrifles-pr.com) , TVM, SHOWROOM | tvmsite (tvmnatchez.com), Jim Chambers, Jim Chambers Flintlocks , Caywood (mostly smooth bores), SOUTHERN MOUNTAIN RIFLE (caywoodguns.com),
Do learn about locks and what parts would be best for the build. German locks on an English style rifle or Colonial Style rifle are out of place.
Dirty shame!!!! I just got into watching Bill's video's when they were taken off. Beats me how shaping a piece of wood and attaching a barrel with a 18th/19th firing mechanism goes against their standards. IMO UTube like FaceBook has none. They can allow and promote radical anti-police/conservative government BS, but come on----building a late 18th/early 19th century firearm. OK, highjacked my own starting post content, off my soapbox!!! Looking forward to Bill getting his other build video's on line. I did get Dixon's 'Art of Building a Penn Rifle' and 'Recreating the American Longrifle' by Buchele,....-ton of info in those I'm still absorbing.Unfortunately Bill Raby got kicked off of you tube. You Tube didn't like the gun building and would not work with him. You can catch his 4 Bore build on Rumble. I am waiting on pins a needles for him to upload the Lancaster videos to Rumble. He says it takes a lot of bandwidth so it may be a while.
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