Traditions Hawken Lock Removal?

[MaverickNH]

OK - so I got out for my first three shots with my Traditions Hawken 50cal at 25yd - the 50yd range was swamped and I didn't want to try zeroing at 100yd right away with a new rifle. Nice tight group from the bench, with all holes touching, so I'm happy.

I got the barrel off easily by taking out the tang screw and tennon wedge so I could wash, dry and oil. I took out the two lock plate screws, but couldn't pull the lock off as indicated in the instructions. Did I miss something?

I'll get back to the range to zero at 50yd soon.

 

[mmahlock]

My first question is why did you remove the tang screw? It should have a break-off breach or hook breach. To remove the barrel all you should have to do is remove the ramrod and barrel lug. As for the lock, once the barrel is removed the only thing attaching the lock is the two screws. It should be in the "fired position" with the hammer down. If the trigger has been set it might be interfering with the sear bar.

 

[Zonie]

Glad to hear you had fun. :thumbsup:

You should not have to remove the tang screw to remove the barrel. The rear of it should be hooked into the metal tang so, removing the barrel wedge, cocking the hammer and rotating the barrel upwards should release it for cleaning.

To remove your lock, unscrew the lock plate screws about 2 turns. Then, tap the screw heads with the plastic handle of the screw driver to drive them back down. Repeat this once or twice and your lock should have moved out of its mortice far enough to allow it to be easily removed by hand after the screws are totally removed.

When re-installing it, lightly tap the lockplate and it should slide back into the mortice so the screws can start.

Do not over tighten the screws. They only need to be tight enough to keep the lock seated in the mortice and be tight enough so they don't unscrew by themselves, but no more than that.

 

Maverick,
If it's a new rifle the lock may just be stuck due to a tight fit, or it may have some stock finish around the edge. The next thing that I would try would be to put the lock screws back in, but only a thread or two, and tap on the head of the screw. This will often loosen the lock in the mortice without damageing the wood around it.
Mark

 

[MaverickNH]

Thanks for the advice y'all - I'll give it a try tapping the lock out by the screw heads. And I'll leave the tang screw in next time I pull the barrel.

If my wife catches me washing the barrel out in the kitchen sink, I'm a goner. If...

Another few questions:

1. I saw the rod spring had a hole in it that looked like it passed through the front lock screw, so I put that screw back through the hole when replacing the barrel. But now the rod slides freely out. Maybe I just need to bend a greater arch in that spring? I put it in arch up.

2. The flint made a horizontal gouge in the frizzen face and there are gouged tracks running down the frizzen face. I put the size recommended by Traditions 5/8" square English flint (from Possibles Shop) in with bevel up and edge parallel and just off the frizzen face at half-cock. Ignition is quick, so it seems to be working fine. Normal, or signs of a soft frizzen face?

 

[rafterob]

I usually end up taking those rod retaining springs out when I replace the original ramrod. I prefer the warped ramrod holding method. My guess is you may have put it back in backwards? The frizzen marks are normal. You may wish to try the flint the other way to see if it strikes any better.