Traditions Kentucky rifle flintlock ?

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kyron4

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Looking at getting a flintlock rifle kit and since it will mainly be a wall hanger in my shop , I don't want to dump a ton of money into one, but still want it to work properly. I plan to bring it out and shoot at family get togethers and shooting events a few times a year. For an entry level gun what do I need to know about the Traditions Kentucky rifle flintlock ? Any main concerns ? How is Traditions customers support these days ? Seems most reviews are favorable, but still read some that site QC issue. Any opinions or advice ? thanks
 
I put this one together a few years ago for a friend, I put different sight on it for him .
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Takedown rifles were real, even in the flintlock era, just not very common. It is possible to permanently join the stocks together, as I have done with mine.

My experience is once you tweak the lock, they are great shooters. I removed the wave washer on the frizzen pivot and polished up the point where the frizzen contscts the spring. It will fire every time if I do my part. Here's mine, representing an 1820s New England gun. I have a tread on these forums detailing it more.
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I have a Traditions Kentucky rifle I built from a kit. I'm happy with it. But when you say it will mainly be a wall hanger it makes me think you might want to look at the Traditions Mountain rifle. I just bought one and it's really a good looking gun with the brown CeraKote barrel, trigger guard and butt plate and silver patch box cover, triggers and front sight. It's easily the best looking flintlock I own. It shoots good too.
 
Takedown rifles were real, even in the flintlock era, just not very common. It is possible to permanently join the stocks together, as I have done with mine.

My experience is once you tweak the lock, they are great shooters. I removed the wave washer on the frizzen pivot and polished up the point where the frizzen contscts the spring. It will fire every time if I do my part. Here's mine, representing an 1820s New England gun. I have a tread on these forums detailing it more.
View attachment 112334
I plan to permanently join the stock also, so the brass spacer is not needed ? thanks
 
I plan to permanently join the stock also, so the brass spacer is not needed ? thanks
If you don't have a spacer, you will have to drill new pin holes in the tenons as the pin holes in the stock kit will no longer align with the holes in the tenons as the holes in the kit were aligned with the spacer in place.
 
Takedown rifles were real, even in the flintlock era, just not very common. It is possible to permanently join the stocks together, as I have done with mine.

My experience is once you tweak the lock, they are great shooters. I removed the wave washer on the frizzen pivot and polished up the point where the frizzen contscts the spring. It will fire every time if I do my part. Here's mine, representing an 1820s New England gun. I have a tread on these forums detailing it more.
View attachment 112334
That was the first rifle I bought with my own money when I was 14, a CVA Kentucky flintlock .45 I didn’t have the artisanal skills to make it look very pretty, but the Spanish made barrel was a tack driver and I shot my first deer with it.

Thats a great job with that rifle btw! Beautiful! I’ve always thought these affordable kits have heaps of potential for someone who has the skills and tools (i.e. carve/checkering, brass inlaying etc..)
 
I've never owned that particular rifle but have owned and heavily used at least two other Traditions rifles. In my case I found customer service to be excellent, and the rifles reliable and accurate.
 
I have no experience with Traditions flintlock rifles. But I've seen threads in this forum where someone mentions that his lowly Traditions flintlock rifle has a more reliable lock than his Pedersoli. Less problems with misfires, so they said.
 
i have to agree with hanshi.....my customer service experience has been pretty darn good. as some have mentioned, the lock may need a little tweaking....but once done they are good reliable shooters
 
If you don't have a spacer, you will have to drill new pin holes in the tenons as the pin holes in the stock kit will no longer align with the holes in the tenons as the holes in the kit were aligned with the spacer in place.
Also your nose cap wont fit
And the 2 part stock is desighned to keep from cracking due to humidity
It needs to slide to allow expansion
 
Stick to wat you know
Trust me, they have to slide also if you glue. You cant soak in a bucket without removeing pins!
How many stocks have you repaired?
Because they dint leesten?🤨👆you see the grey beard and hair! Look up slotted tenions.also look at the size pins they give you with the kit!
Do you think there iz any give there
I throw those "pinz" in the rubbish
Tell me again wat you "think"!
Objects in mirror may be closer than you think your experience may vary 🤪🤺
 
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