• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Traditions Kentucky rifle kit build questions

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

formernuke

32 Cal
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
15
Reaction score
5
I've been wanting a flintlock rifle and got a free rifle kit.

The wood has been stained already and both the outside of the barrel and the plate where the flint strikes have some surface rust.

I fitted everything together and it fits, but I'm concerned about where the barrel meets the back of the stock.

Has anyone done one of these kits?

What do I need to do in order to make this a fully functional rifle?
 

Attachments

  • 20240928_232336.jpg
    20240928_232336.jpg
    1.7 MB
  • 20240928_232327.jpg
    20240928_232327.jpg
    1.8 MB
  • 20240928_232306.jpg
    20240928_232306.jpg
    1.5 MB
  • 20240928_232212.jpg
    20240928_232212.jpg
    2.5 MB
  • 20240928_232155.jpg
    20240928_232155.jpg
    2.1 MB
From what I can see you need sights, a flint/leather, and maybe a ramrod. The spot where the barrel meets the back of the stock is called the breech, and the tongue is called the tang. That needs tightened up but if it doesn't want to go you might need to clean up the inletting. Show us an overview of that area and we can help out further. Don't worry about the surface rust steel wool will take it right off.

That's not too shabby of a stock for a traditions kit, I dig the grain and color.
 
The breech should be sitting up against the wood and the top of the tang should be down in the wood not sitting above it. You also have quite a lot of wood that needs to come off down the forestock, that top edge should be rounded over not square like it is.
 
They did a good staining job, I'll have to see how much of it is left after I'm done sanding.

The ramrod is there i just didn't install it because I was dry fitting the actual rifle.

Whats the leather mentioned above for?
 
They did a good staining job, I'll have to see how much of it is left after I'm done sanding.

The ramrod is there i just didn't install it because I was dry fitting the actual rifle.

Whats the leather mentioned above for?
It's padding for the flint while in the jaws, just helps hold it in there and give the jaws a better grip
 
a flint 5/8 square #40 pocket drill for patching, 490 ball and powder
DSC03287.JPG
ram rod
the above was a kit given to me by my son put together for grandson100yrd sight in target after working up a load (65grns swiss3f #40 pocket drill 490 ball tallow lube) the high and right then move sights to hit center not a bad starter rifle. the lock not so great, but Brad at cabin creek muzzleloaders can tune/fix the lock to work right
red rifle 100yrds.JPG
 
File and sandpaper, or of your comfortable you can scrape it with a sharp scraping tool. I used Tru-oil on my traditions, oil and wax on nicer things with higher grade wood.
 
File and sandpaper, or of your comfortable you can scrape it with a sharp scraping tool. I used Tru-oil on my traditions, oil and wax on nicer things with higher grade wood.

Is true oil clear? With the sanding I need to do I'm pretty sure I will need to restain it.
 
Back
Top