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Trigger adjustment?
- Thread starter Bowjo
- Start date
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Hi Bowjo. Welcome to the Forum. 
The screw between the triggers adjusts the engagement of the front triggers latch with the rear triggers catch.
Think of a small flat surface sticking out from the rear of the front trigger. The rear trigger has a small shelf that moves down as the rear trigger is pulled to set it.
When the rear triggers shelf moves below the spring loaded front triggers flat, the front trigger moves slightly forward as its flat slides onto the rear triggers shelf.
This screw limits how far the front triggers flat overlaps the rear triggers shelf.
It DOES NOT ADJUST THE FORCE NEEDED TO PULL THE FRONT TRIGGER. It only adjusts the distance the front trigger needs to move to release the rear trigger.
For safety reasons you want the front trigger to have to move a little bit to release the rear trigger.
The screw behind the rear trigger adjusts the force of the heavy spring that drives the rear triggers blade up against the locks sear arm.
If the set trigger is reliable releasing the lock from a full cock position, don't mess with it.
To adjust the front trigger using the screw between the triggers follow these instructions:
1. Place the cock or hammer in the fired position.
2. Back out the small screw between the triggers at least 3 full turns.
3. Cock or "set" the rear trigger listening for the distinctive "click"
4. Slowly screw the adjustment screw in until the rear trigger is released.**
5. When the rear trigger releases, back off the adjustment screw at least 1 full turn.
Your done.
** The Lyman Great Plains Rifle (or Hunter) is intentionally supplied with a trigger adjustment screw that is too short. The screw cannot release the rear trigger even though it is screwed in all the way.
Note: With the hammer or cock resting in the fully fired position you can set and release (snap) the set triggers all day long and not damage anything.
If the hammer or cock is at "half cock" and you snap the set rear trigger you can bust the half cock notch in the locks tumbler or break the nose off of the sear. Either of these things will require that you have the lock repaired.
Do NOT "fire" the set triggers if the gun is at "half cock".
The screw between the triggers adjusts the engagement of the front triggers latch with the rear triggers catch.
Think of a small flat surface sticking out from the rear of the front trigger. The rear trigger has a small shelf that moves down as the rear trigger is pulled to set it.
When the rear triggers shelf moves below the spring loaded front triggers flat, the front trigger moves slightly forward as its flat slides onto the rear triggers shelf.
This screw limits how far the front triggers flat overlaps the rear triggers shelf.
It DOES NOT ADJUST THE FORCE NEEDED TO PULL THE FRONT TRIGGER. It only adjusts the distance the front trigger needs to move to release the rear trigger.
For safety reasons you want the front trigger to have to move a little bit to release the rear trigger.
The screw behind the rear trigger adjusts the force of the heavy spring that drives the rear triggers blade up against the locks sear arm.
If the set trigger is reliable releasing the lock from a full cock position, don't mess with it.
To adjust the front trigger using the screw between the triggers follow these instructions:
1. Place the cock or hammer in the fired position.
2. Back out the small screw between the triggers at least 3 full turns.
3. Cock or "set" the rear trigger listening for the distinctive "click"
4. Slowly screw the adjustment screw in until the rear trigger is released.**
5. When the rear trigger releases, back off the adjustment screw at least 1 full turn.
Your done.
** The Lyman Great Plains Rifle (or Hunter) is intentionally supplied with a trigger adjustment screw that is too short. The screw cannot release the rear trigger even though it is screwed in all the way.
Note: With the hammer or cock resting in the fully fired position you can set and release (snap) the set triggers all day long and not damage anything.
If the hammer or cock is at "half cock" and you snap the set rear trigger you can bust the half cock notch in the locks tumbler or break the nose off of the sear. Either of these things will require that you have the lock repaired.
Do NOT "fire" the set triggers if the gun is at "half cock".
Here's a topic that's not too old with a bunch of pictures.
If your's is a Deer Creek rifle the third photo I have posted is your trigger; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...268832/post/1140654/hl//fromsearch/1/#1140654
If your's is a Deer Creek rifle the third photo I have posted is your trigger; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...268832/post/1140654/hl//fromsearch/1/#1140654
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Aaahh,
There's another adjustment for what seem's like the trigger, but it's actually for the sear engagment on the tumbler;
If that little screw is turned too far down it'll be just a hair to trip the hammer down.
It's a tricky set-up with those CVA/Deer Creek rifles, adjust the trigger and adjust the lock,,,
Ya really gotta take the lock and the trigger out and look at how they're currently set up and adjust'm too your liking,
And there is a Gremlin out there who's sole purpose is to mess with them adjusments when your not around!!
There's another adjustment for what seem's like the trigger, but it's actually for the sear engagment on the tumbler;
If that little screw is turned too far down it'll be just a hair to trip the hammer down.
It's a tricky set-up with those CVA/Deer Creek rifles, adjust the trigger and adjust the lock,,,
Ya really gotta take the lock and the trigger out and look at how they're currently set up and adjust'm too your liking,
And there is a Gremlin out there who's sole purpose is to mess with them adjusments when your not around!!
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Adjusted the trigger pull on my 1847 Fremont today... tightened the screws in the lock and now it's great again. 
Bowjo
If you aren't familiar with lock parts, the tumbler is the partially rounded thing that the spring pushes against. The tumbler passes thru a hole in the lock plate and the hammer/cock is attached to it.
The sear is the movable part with the arm sticking out away from the lock plate.
The small nose of the sear engages the notches in the tumbler to position it at half-cock or full cock.
If you remove your lock and it looks like the one necchi shows in his picture that screw with the arrow pointed at it should be adjusted so that 100 percent of the nose of the sear is engaged with the full cock in the tumbler.
If the end or nose of the sear is only partially engaged, unscrew that screw slightly, then pull the hammer back and allow it to move forward.
Notice where the sears nose is now stopped.
If the nose of the sear is engaged too deeply with the full cock notch then screw the screw in slightly.
With a little fussing with it you will have it set just right.
If you aren't familiar with lock parts, the tumbler is the partially rounded thing that the spring pushes against. The tumbler passes thru a hole in the lock plate and the hammer/cock is attached to it.
The sear is the movable part with the arm sticking out away from the lock plate.
The small nose of the sear engages the notches in the tumbler to position it at half-cock or full cock.
If you remove your lock and it looks like the one necchi shows in his picture that screw with the arrow pointed at it should be adjusted so that 100 percent of the nose of the sear is engaged with the full cock in the tumbler.
If the end or nose of the sear is only partially engaged, unscrew that screw slightly, then pull the hammer back and allow it to move forward.
Notice where the sears nose is now stopped.
If the nose of the sear is engaged too deeply with the full cock notch then screw the screw in slightly.
With a little fussing with it you will have it set just right.
I'm going to be looking at mine this weekend, and wanted to play with the adjustment ( I know I'm crazy but what the heck) Last time i adjusted it I had no clue, so Im going to make sure Im ok even though Ive never had problems with it in all the years I have owned it.
That said, I want to be sure I have this correct. The screw between the triggers adjusts the engagement of the set to the front trigger, the tighter it is the more hairy it is. The screw inside the lock, (mine has one already checked last time I cleaned her) adjusts the sear engagement itself.
I want to be sure my Sear is properly adjusted because I have never messed with that. Then I will probably re adjust the set as described just to see where it puts me as compared to what I have now, which is quite a hair trigger when set.
That said, I want to be sure I have this correct. The screw between the triggers adjusts the engagement of the set to the front trigger, the tighter it is the more hairy it is. The screw inside the lock, (mine has one already checked last time I cleaned her) adjusts the sear engagement itself.
I want to be sure my Sear is properly adjusted because I have never messed with that. Then I will probably re adjust the set as described just to see where it puts me as compared to what I have now, which is quite a hair trigger when set.
Not realy the "hair trigger" adjustment, it adjusts the amount of travel of the front trigger before the rear spring loaded lever breaks.Adui said:
Correct, This is the hair trigger adjustment. You really have to try it with the lock in after adjusting, a half a turn with that lock/tumbler screw is a BIG adjustment when it get's close.
The test for this adjustment is useing the front trigger alone. There will be some travel before the lever contacts the sear arm, but it adjusts how much (or little) pressure you need on the trigger to trip the sear nose off the tumbler.
Ok thanks! My terminology wasn't quite right, but that's exactly how I envisioned things working so its all good.
Update: the OP should really consider following this adjustment procedure, I just completed it and my unset trigger pull is crisper and easier than most of my modern guns! I did verify the sear is fully engaging the tumbler, ran a tool GENTLY across the union point in both directions to ensure the sear was definitely fully engaged.
Set trigger adjustment was.. interesting.. I followed the instructions here and my set trigger is actually more sensitive now than it was.
Set trigger adjustment was.. interesting.. I followed the instructions here and my set trigger is actually more sensitive now than it was.
Like I mentioned, the screw adjusts how far the front trigger needs to be pulled to release the rear trigger.
If you want some extra travel before the trigger releases just back out the screw between the triggers until you are happy.
If you want some extra travel before the trigger releases just back out the screw between the triggers until you are happy.
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