The trigger guard that came with the rifle kit I'm working on does not have mounting tangs. is it common to mount them with screws? Seems they may intrude into ram rod channel. The kit is a pecatonica pennsylvania long rifle. The other problem is the inlet that was cut for the trigger plate is 1/32 wider than the plate. Sloppy! Any advise is much appreciated.
trigger guard/trigger plate question
- Thread starter bluheritg
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Bob,
Send the trigger guard back. It needs to have lugs to be mounted properly.
As far as the trigger plate, 1/32" will go away after stain and finish. Not too obvious in that location.
Check the rest of the kit out before you start chopping away. No one will warranty one that's been altered.
Good luck
Send the trigger guard back. It needs to have lugs to be mounted properly.
As far as the trigger plate, 1/32" will go away after stain and finish. Not too obvious in that location.
Check the rest of the kit out before you start chopping away. No one will warranty one that's been altered.
Good luck
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Blahman is right. Some southern guns were just screwed on. Pennsylvania guns were pinned.
OK, I'm sure someone out there has seen one that was screwed on. We are talking what would be normal. Those were pinned.
If you just gotta screw in on, go ahead. Somewhere in time, someone else did it too. :rotf:
I'd send it back, and get a proper one. :winking:
OK, I'm sure someone out there has seen one that was screwed on. We are talking what would be normal. Those were pinned.
If you just gotta screw in on, go ahead. Somewhere in time, someone else did it too. :rotf:
I'd send it back, and get a proper one. :winking:
I've had the kit for many years and I'm getting back into it. It is for the southern mountain rifle and the guard is steel. I'm worried that the screws will go into the rr channel though. Other than that, I'm not concerned that it is screwed on or not.
Guest
Glue a wood plug down inside the ramrod hole and then ya have wood for the lug on the TG. Use Elmer's and a sawed off piece of ramrod the same size as the hole. The ramrod hole should only be as long as the barrel is. The TG lug usually goes up into the area directly under the breech tang lug which means the TG lug should be immediately behind the ramrod hole.
IMO, the steel triggerguard you have was meant to be installed with two screws. That, IMO, fits with a Southern steel mounted rifle.
Run the ramrod down the hole to the bottom and mark the location where it exits from the stock on it with a pencil.
Pull it back out and lay it on the stock with the mark aligned with the ramrod holes enterance. Mark the end of the rods location on the outside of the stock.
I think you will find that the trigger guards forward tab will have an area where a screw can be installed without interfering with the hole. I did on the Tennessee I'm building.
Zonie
Run the ramrod down the hole to the bottom and mark the location where it exits from the stock on it with a pencil.
Pull it back out and lay it on the stock with the mark aligned with the ramrod holes enterance. Mark the end of the rods location on the outside of the stock.
I think you will find that the trigger guards forward tab will have an area where a screw can be installed without interfering with the hole. I did on the Tennessee I'm building.
Zonie
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!!!Listen to Zonnie!!!
I don't think anyone else that has replied actually understands what you have.
A southern mt rifle TG is screwed on front and rear in most instances. Use an oval head screw and countersink it into the guard.
Do not inlet the guard into a recess or you will not have enough wood to hold the very short screw you must use to prevent intrusion into the RR hole.
:hatsoff:
I don't think anyone else that has replied actually understands what you have.
A southern mt rifle TG is screwed on front and rear in most instances. Use an oval head screw and countersink it into the guard.
Do not inlet the guard into a recess or you will not have enough wood to hold the very short screw you must use to prevent intrusion into the RR hole.
:hatsoff:
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ghost said:
No need to insult all who have replied to Black Bob, Ghostie type guy. He stated in his original post that he had a "pecatonica pennsylvania long rifle". I and probably the rest who have given good advice on this head have had good reason to believe it was not a Tennessee or poor boy but a Pennsylvania Long rifle as posted.
CrackStock
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You can always drill a hole through your trigger plate and into your triggerguard. Then thread the hole in the trigger guard for a screw.
It takes some planning and machining, but it is a nice installation. I have one done like this and it is so snug from the tang bolt that the rear is held in by tension from a slight bend. I never put a screw in it.
CS
It takes some planning and machining, but it is a nice installation. I have one done like this and it is so snug from the tang bolt that the rear is held in by tension from a slight bend. I never put a screw in it.
CS
Hey guys, I want to thank all those who have responded about this. I hope I haven't opened a can of worms. I guess I should have described the rifle a little better in the first place. I have since checked for the clearence for the front screw and it seems that it will be O.K. There were a couple of screws included with the kit that I think was for this purpose, So screws it will be.
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Bob,
OK, I guess I'm confused. You first said it was a Pecatonica Pennsylvania longrifle kit.
Now it's a southern mountain rifle.
Like Rosanne Rosanadana said. "That's different, Never mind. :blah:
OK, I guess I'm confused. You first said it was a Pecatonica Pennsylvania longrifle kit.
Now it's a southern mountain rifle.
Like Rosanne Rosanadana said. "That's different, Never mind. :blah:
Guest
OOooooooooohhhhh!!!! Well, listen to Zonie then. He told ya what to do for a Southern Mountainy type rifle :thumbsup:
This is just an idea- don't know if it fits your needs, but.... Why not buy just another trigger guard? Get one with a tang and if you want to use a screw, file off the tang and then you are free to position the screw hole where you want it. If you do this you must get a trigger guard that fits the existing inletting and still has the triggers in the proper place within the guard- not always an easy thing to do. I have taken a photocopy of what I have and faxed it to suppliers and most are very helpful in getting you what to need. If the new bases are oversized you can take them down as needed. This idea may work in your case.
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