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No need to reduce the powder charge of whatsoever. Hodgdon stated in their loading data to reduce by 15% if you were attempting to achieve black powder velocities. Back then Goex didn’t make Olde Eynsford and Swiss just wasn’t common so really all people got was the neutered stuff that’s still common. Both Swiss and Olde Eynsford both seem to barely outperform T7, black powders. Sure isn’t any loading data from the manufacturer stating if using Swiss or Olde Eynsford, or the French powder or newer South African powder, or any others outside of the US, that if using those powders you should reduce the powder charge as well.

Truth be told 4F has been used in revolvers for over a century. Stuff all of the 3F anything you can find in your revolver, including Triple 7, and you’re fine.
 
What sort of competition do "Many competition shooters prefer 777 for their revolvers" refer. Walking the pistol line many times a day at the NRA/ NMLRA Nationals a few weeks ago I observed nothing but cans and plastic bottles of real Black powder. Not aware of any winning match shooters using other than Black. Are they just hiding the stuff? There are some newbie and lifetime marksman class guys I may have missed you are counting as "competition shooters". I have have heard this claim of all the fake black types over the years. I just have not seen any evidence of a successful match shooter using any of this stuff. Please, can someone tell me who is that successful match shooter...c
 
I’m no match shooter but it pushes a ball out my rifle just fine at 50 yds. I believe others are correct in reducing the load. It’s pretty punchy. This was only 50 grains 2f today in the wind. I’m sure it will work fine in your pistol too. Good luck and enjoy. :)
7E8EA144-C42E-41AF-B8DF-F56934D61C02.jpeg
 
I have to ask this even if it is dumb but don't all the black powder substitute manufactures automatically do the "reduction" via using the black powder VOLUME measurement rather than an actual grains/weight basis in the loading data they publish??
Honest question ..not stirring the pot

Bear
 
I have almost no experience with bp substitutes. I tried some Pyrodex P many years ago, just for grins and giggles. I stick with black powder for all of my black powder firearms.
Since all of the substitutes require a higher temperature to ignite, the burn rate once ignited will increase the amount of pressure. It follows that the increase in pressure would spike sooner than black powder.
 
I have to ask this even if it is dumb but don't all the black powder substitute manufactures automatically do the "reduction" via using the black powder VOLUME measurement rather than an actual grains/weight basis in the loading data they publish??
Honest question ..not stirring the pot

Bear

I know Pyrodex is lighter (due to density?) in actual weight for a given volume than similarly grained BP (Pyro P vs 3f, Pyro RS/Select vs 2f). I recall reading somewhere that a 100 grain measure threw about 100 grains in actual weight of Goex, but it only threw something like 70 grains of Pyro RS in terms of actual grain weight. So it appears that reduction is only of concern when measuring by actual physical charge weight but not when measuring volumetrically. If you measured out 100 grains of Goex 2f on a scale and then measured out 100 grains of Pyro RS on the same scale, you'd have a greater volume of RS and a more powerful charge.
 
Perfectly safe without reduced loads. Got that straight from the manufacturer, after my local "expert" told me I'd blow up my gun using equal volume loads. I use 3f 777 almost exclusively in all my guns, rifles, smoothbores and handguns, excepting flintlocks. In MY experience does exactly as advertised, higher velocities and easier cleaning. Use reduced loads to equal Goex velocity if that is your desire. Attached picture is a 50 yards group out of a very worn, stock 1851 Pietta .36 Navy. Load is 23 grain (volume) and .375 rb. That load gets 1200 fps, vs. 920fps for 3f Goex, so quite a bit more snappy.
 

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777 is supposed to be harder to ignite when compressed. When I bought my first BP revolver and a jug of 777 I didn't know any better, and compressed it as tightly as I possibly could. I used all the powder that would fit into the chambers. No problems with ignition using regular caps.
 
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I cram it down, whether revolver or long gun, just as I would Goex or any other powder. Not going to use a scale or such device when ramming down a load or using the revolver's loading lever. No problems using regular caps or with guns "blowing up". It wouldn't be on the market if there was any danger involved. It has been thoroughly tested by the manufacturer and lawyer-proofed.

I use 777 because it is readily available in my area, unlike real black. My closest dealer for the "Real Stuff" is a two and a half hour drive away, IF they have some. And yes, I understand that I can order online, just don't have any interest in doing so.
 
I load 25 gr. of 777 with a .454 ball in all my Uberti 1858, 1860 and snub nose. My Ruger Old Army shoots 30gr. of 777 with a .457 ball. My TC Patriot with 20 gr. of 777 and a patched .440 ball shoots incredibly accurate. All five shooters have no problems with 777. It is my preferred powder.
 
is it 10% hotter than most powders? that is what I have heard. and was told to reduce the load by 10%. any truth to it?
 
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