Trouble with the Bolt and hammer on an 1860 colt sheriff's model from Taylor's

[Mike Stone]

I put some slick shot nipples on a 1860 and took it apart and debirded and it it and now if there's a cap on the nipple the hammer will not go forward far enough to release the bolt inside and it stays stuck forward, And I can't pull the hammer back. With just the nipple it's fine or just after I fire it and it crushes the nipple it's fine I've done some light grinding on The Bolt legs because I know it is supposed to drop off the notch on the hammer and allow the hammer to be pulled back again but I can't get it it figured out. It's funny this text to speech To text thing I use Will not print the word nipple, dirty little boy. lol thanks for any tips. The gun is a pierta sheriff's model, three inch Barrel brand new From Taylor's, who has been no help
thanks

 

[Rebel]

Sounds like the new nipples might be a hair to long?

 

[hawkeye2]

If it worked before and won't work now the problem is that the nipples are too long. The hammer is blocked from going forward enough to reset the action. File a little bit off each nipple. Altering the bolt or hammer cam (without having an excellent knowledge of single action workings) can lead to new problems.

 

[Mike Stone]

Yes indeed they were slick shots and they were too long. I ground them off about 0.005 and of course this was too short and the hammer didn't make contact with the nipple at all. So I fabricated washers that were about 0.002 of an inch and put them under each nipple, so now the hammer reaches the end of the nipple and allows the cap to go off. And (The problem of the hammer not being able to be recocked when resting on an unfired cap was happening with the factory nipples as well.) With an unfired cap on the nipple the hammer did not go forward far enough for the bolt leg to slip off the hammer cam. And the problem persists
I saw a guy on YouTube that had a similar problem and he ground down one of the legs of the Bolt and it cured his problem I could grind a little bit more off and see what happens and if I mess it up I can order another one but that seems to probably be the issue. Unless you guys have some other idea

 

[hawkeye2]

It sounds like you are the victim of Italian tolerances and quality control. Nice to hear you fixed it. Go easy if you decide to grind on the bolt arm, a little can do a lot. Don't try to bend a bolt arm, they will snap (posted for a friend who did just that).

Here is an excellent video on the workings of a Colt C&B revolver and some others too.

 

[Jappo]

There's only one side to work on the leg. Look at it carefully and notice the slight angle. I use hard Arkansas and do a little at a time. Check the cam on the hammer also. I know its tedious to assemble and disassemble. But you'll get it right eventually.
Good luck on with it.

 

[Rich44]

Yes indeed they were slick shots and they were too long. I ground them off about 0.005 and of course this was too short and the hammer didn't make contact with the nipple at all. So I fabricated washers that were about 0.002 of an inch and put them under each nipple, so now the hammer reaches the end of the nipple and allows the cap to go off. And (The problem of the hammer not being able to be recocked when resting on an unfired cap was happening with the factory nipples as well.) With an unfired cap on the nipple the hammer did not go forward far enough for the bolt leg to slip off the hammer cam. And the problem persists
I saw a guy on YouTube that had a similar problem and he ground down one of the legs of the Bolt and it cured his problem I could grind a little bit more off and see what happens and if I mess it up I can order another one but that seems to probably be the issue. Unless you guys have some other idea

I would think a .002 gap would be about perfect. Would fire perfect.

 

[45D]

Yes indeed they were slick shots and they were too long. I ground them off about 0.005 and of course this was too short and the hammer didn't make contact with the nipple at all. So I fabricated washers that were about 0.002 of an inch and put them under each nipple, so now the hammer reaches the end of the nipple and allows the cap to go off. And (The problem of the hammer not being able to be recocked when resting on an unfired cap was happening with the factory nipples as well.) With an unfired cap on the nipple the hammer did not go forward far enough for the bolt leg to slip off the hammer cam. And the problem persists
I saw a guy on YouTube that had a similar problem and he ground down one of the legs of the Bolt and it cured his problem I could grind a little bit more off and see what happens and if I mess it up I can order another one but that seems to probably be the issue. Unless you guys have some other idea

Your understanding of how it works is exactly backwards. The bolt arm slides over ONTO the cam . . . not off. That is called "reset" and the cam pushing the bolt arm up as you cycle the hammer is what in turn makes the bolt head retreat and unlock the cyl. You could have easily filed the face of the hammer which would have allowed more forward movement to allow "reset" to happen and saved your new nipples.

Mike

 

[Jappo]

Your understanding of how it works is exactly backwards. The bolt arm slides over ONTO the cam . . . not off. That is called "reset" and the cam pushing the bolt arm up as you cycle the hammer is what in turn makes the bolt head retreat and unlock the cyl. You could have easily filed the face of the hammer which would have allowed more forward movement to allow "reset" to happen and saved your new nipples.

Mike

Glad you said that, I refrained from mentioning it, thought I might get my hand slapped.