Trying to work up loads

[hhughh]

Trying to get my Chambers 12 ga fowler woods ready.

(All using a 35-yd target):
I tried 50/50 shot/powder in #4s. (abt 80 grains of powder and eq. amt of shot) A few scattered holes.

Moved shot up to 1 1/4 oz, maintained powder...About three more holes than before.

Tried 3 drams powder and 12 00Buckshot. Three holes in the box.

Also, I'm using TOTW's overshot cards over shot and over powder---4 over powder---but they just want to turn and lay on their side.

Suggestions, please.
Thanks,
Hughd

 

[Rebel]

Yep, move up to 20-25 yds. That is about as far as i have found you can get a decent pattern with a cyl bore no matter the ga.

 

[roundball]

#4s

Agree with Rebel, a cylinder bore is just not going to give tight patterns at distance.

Compounding that is the very low pellet count you're getting by using #4s...does what you're shooting really require #4's?

6s, or even 5s, would up the pellet count and improve your density.

 

[shootemup]

I agree with both of the previous responses, move up to 25 yards and try #5's. You can move back later when you're getting good patterns.

Have you tried fiber cushion wads? I don't know if you're using hard cards over powder, but if you are I recommend trying the fiber cushion wads over powder. I melt some Crisco in a microwave and soak them in that, paper-towel them off and store 'em in a baggie. I have been told that the fiber cushion wads "give" a little under the shot so as to cause less deformation and fewer flyers, and my experience has been consistent with that idea. I really like the fiber cushion wads, use 'em for roundball too.

I have one smoothbore, a .56, that does well with .54 Wonder Wads. I suspect the same principal at work...

I would really like to hear your results, please keep us informed.

Mark

 

[hhughh]

does what you're shooting really require #4's?


I'll try the 5 and 6 patterns when I locate some. I had scavenged some old shells I had for the fours. The one local store that normally has shot for reloading was out when I went shopping. I'm trying to work up loads with #4s for turkey--not nearly getting a pattern for them yet--then 6s or 7 1/2s for squirrels/bunnies, and a 00B load for deer.

Also, how do you keep the OS wads from turning as you try to send them down the barrel, or how do you correct it once they do turn?

Thanks,
Hugh

 

[paulvallandigham]

HUgh: If you are using a properly sized cleaning jag on your Ramrod, the jag will be very close to bore diameter, and will therefore push the OS wafers down the barrel with equal push on all sides. That " straightens" out any OS card that begins " crooked ".

In choked barrels, and in some barrels where the bore is slightly smaller than the OS wafer, it is advantageous to bow the card a bit to fit it in the barrel to start. Once you have it past the muzzle, so that the card is not going to nick an edge on the muzzle's crown, or Non-crown, turn the wafer with your fingertip so that is is about 90% square to the bore. Then push it with that close fitting jag, and it will straighten out.

Now, on some guns, you will have a " flattened " edge where the card was first introduced to the barrel. To " cure " that problem for sealing gases, simply use more than one card, and start them into the barrel in different planes. For Example, orient the first card in the 12/6 o'clock position; then the second in the 3/9 o'clock position. As long as the two nicked or flattened sides don't line up, you seal the gases.

Always use an awl to poke a small hole in the wafers( .010" thick OS cards) to let air escape as you are loading them. Put the holes off-center, but not near an edge, and then orient the holes in different planes, too. As long as the holes don't line up, the holes will actually allow air through to force the wafers apart after they leave the muzzle, so that they will fall to the ground sooner.