Tung oil over Linseed?

[Swampman]

For the first time, I plan on using tung oil as a final finish on the Brown Bess I'm reworking. What do you think about putting some turpentine thinned linseed oil on the stock before I start building up the tung oil. I think the tung oil dries too fast to really soak in.

 

[djnye]

actually, if you are using real tung oil and not one of the tung oil 'finishes, you can make a very penetrating sealer with tung oil 50/50 with turps. this will penetrate very well and a couple coats should seal just fine.

take care, daniel

 

[Zonie]

My experiance with real Tung oil is it is just as slow to dry as linseed. Seems to take forever.

 

[djnye]

zonie,

i find that rather odd. i use the stuff all the time and have no problems with drying. actually, the main problem with the stuff is that if it is not used up in a timely fashion, it will catalize in the container.

take care, daniel

 

[Ridge]

I have done this to several modern rifles that I've refinished. Worked well for me.

 

[Swampman]

I stained my "mystery wood" stock with Danglers Dark Brown this morning and hit it with the oooo steel wool again. After it dryed, I put some Formby's Satin Finish Tung Oil cut 50% with some Russian turpentine (that was smuggled back about 10 years ago) on it. It's looking awesome! Thanks for the help! :thumbsup:

 

[Birddog6]

I use Formby's tung il finish lots of times with wonderful results.

1: I seal the rifle up with Tru-Oil first as tung oil is not waterproof. Rub down with 0000 steel wook or 2000 grit paper.

2: I always buy a new unopened can of Tung Oil Finish for each rifle.

3: I usually don't thin the tung oil, I use it straight out of the can. I have thinned with with turpentine but found it takes twice as many coats & really doesn't accomplish anything for me. In fact, I think the turpentine will make the finish shrink later on as it seems the ones I have done this on I have to come back 6 mo. later & add more finish.

4: If it is very humid out I put a tablespoon of tung oil finish in a jar lid & then add a couple drops of Japan Drier to that & discard the excess when I am thru with that rub. Usually I can put a coat on in the AM & later that night also.

:thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

zonie,

i find that rather odd. i use the stuff all the time and have no problems with drying. actually, the main problem with the stuff is that if it is not used up in a timely fashion, it will catalize in the container.

take care, daniel

The Tung Oil I am refering to is Old Masters "100 % PURE TUNG OIL"

This oil does not have any dryers or anything else added to it. I used it about 5 months ago and the only thing that's hardened sense I used it is a little which was on the threads outside of the cap.

Even the instructions which are printed on the back do not say or imply that it will really harden to develop any kind of build up. To quote: "...Do not apply more coats than the wood can absorb."

 

[BlackNet]

zonie,

The Tung Oil I am refering to is Old Masters "100 % PURE TUNG OIL"

This oil does not have any dryers or anything else added to it. I used it about 5 months ago and the only thing that's hardened sense I used it is a little which was on the threads outside of the cap.

Even the instructions which are printed on the back do not say or imply that it will really harden to develop any kind of build up. To quote: "...Do not apply more coats than the wood can absorb."

tung oil is some awsome stuff but it really depends on what your putting it on. If the wood is super oily it may not be a god thing to use.

old masters Tung oil WILL indeed dry to a haze if use properly. it is also 100% natural (all from teh tung tree) and not a single drop of petroleum in it, unless get the 'tung oil finish'.

linseed oil by itself will not dry out that well, if any at all. both need continuous upkeep yearly.

Ed