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Tuning a flintlock

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WALKERs210

36 Cal.
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I have a CVA Hawken, 50cal flintlock that is gathering dust in the cabinet. When I first got the rifle when you fired the flint would hit 1/3 from the top of frizzen and throw decent sparks but it would not open the frizzen completely. I worked with a bit light filing and smoothing everything. It worked fine and I fired off a few rounds, brought it home did the cleaning and cleaned up my mess then clean me so the wife would not get on me for smelling. Any way I pulled it out of cabinet last night showing to my wife how the flint worked. It back to not opening the frizzen completely and even with a new sharp stone the spark was wimpy at best. What would be advise to make it like it suppose be
 
Could be several things, Try mounting the flint so the sharp edge is around 1/16" to 1/8" from the closed frizzen at HALF cock. Try the flint both ways, bevel up and bevel down.
Most have better performance with a knapped flint rather than the "cut" type.
Also, if the rifle was stored for awhile, you might want to clean the lock and re-oil it. (inside & out).
The frizzen should snap open after moving it by hand about 2/3 or 3/4 the distance of it's travel.
If it doesn't there it a problem somewhere in the frizzen or the frizzen spring.
Some of the other guys with better ways to explain re-shapping the frizzen dog that contacts the spring or changing the tension of the spring may chime in also. My experience with CVA flint locks is limited.
Jon D
 
I am by no means an expert on CVA, but I understand the geometry is off on their locks.

The frizzen spring may be too strong. There should be no more than 2 lb. resistance to open it up. Also the bearing point of the frizzen may need polishing.

I tuned mine to Bb! :rotf: :idunno: :shake: :bull:
 
Sad to say but my experience with CVA flints has not been good. Thinning the frizzen spring helps, rehardening the frizzen helps, polishing the bearing surface where the frizzen rubs on the spring helps, But replacing the lock with a good replacement lock works much better. :hmm: :hmm:
 
Check the pivot screw/pin for the frizzen. It may have gotten rusty when water and soap could not be dried out and off that pin the last time you cleaned the lock. It may need new oil. I find this frequently, even with my own tuned locks. A drop of oil and a little playing of the frizzen back and forth, by hand, get the lock working correctly.

You also need oil on the cam on the bottom of the frizzen, and contact spot on the upper arm of the frizzen spring, so that resistance there does NOT keep the frizzen from opening. Those two surfaces need to be polished mirror smooth-- and oiled before each use.

I hope that helps. Paul
 
I improved the lock speed on my Traditions by dismantling the lock and polishing the machining marks off of the tumbler, sear, etc. Don't change the geometry of the parts, just smooth them. I also polished the inside of the lock plate.
 
I bought a nos CVA lockand I had to take it apart scrub the plate sand it polish it and on top of all of that I had to reshape the frizzen catch and I found mineral oil does wonders in maping the lock function, The gun fires without a delay.
 
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