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Tuning a set trigger...

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Hello all! I have recently purchased my first muzzleloader with a set trigger. It is not quite performing as I would like. I do see the small bolt between the two triggers but was wondering if anyone has advice on how to adjust it? Forgive my ignorance on this. Thank you so much.
 
Turn it clockwise to lighten the trigger pull and counter clockwise to heavy it up. It’s just trial and error to find a trigger pull you like.
 
Turning the set screw adjusts spring tension inside thr trigger assembly itself, but that assembly is not mechanically connected to the lock mechanism. So, there should be no need to worry about the position of the lock.
 
Thank you! Should I have it at half **** or anything like that?
No! Never try your set triggers with the lock at half ****! The sear arm will be locked in place and will not "give" when the trigger knife swings up and hits it. That's a good way to bend or break a trigger or sear. However, you can test your set triggers safely with the hammer or **** all the way down. The sear is able to move a little when the trigger knife strikes it, which reduces the force of the impact.

The little screw between the triggers is for adjustment of sensitivity. Turn it in to lighten the pull of the front trigger, out to make it heavier. If you turn it in too far, the triggers won't "set." That little screw can also turn spontaneously while you are shooting, so it's a good idea to keep a small screwdriver that will fit it in your pouch. You can put a drop of Loc-Tite or linseed oil on the screw while you are getting it adjusted. The oil will congeal in time and serve the same function as Loc-Tite. That's the way the old timers did it.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob
 
Listen and follow Notchy Bob's instructions, he is correct, should also be made into a sticky for future needs.

Two (2) other ways to to stop the set screw from turning on it's own.

1. Back the set screw out and wrap clock a small piece of
teflon tape around the screw and put it back in the
hole and adjust as needed.

2. Back the screw out and very carefully bugger up or
slightly crimp the threads with a pair of pliers or
channel. Diligence is required, then put the screw
back in he hole and adjust as needed.

On some Lyman GPR's, the set screw is too short. Take the set screw out and put in a small envelope, so you do not lose it. Go to Google and look up you local "fastener" store, take the screw there and get one slightly longer,
That will fix the problem.

I have gone to my local fastener store and have been amazed how many items that have that fit guns.
 
Last edited:
What a coincidence….

I was just looking at an older set of Investarms set triggers I had laying around…

I was aware of the screw between the triggers…
But had never noticed the other screw behind the rear trigger.

Apparently it adjusts the tension required too set the rear trigger by lifting the trigger spring..

AD4711A6-C2FB-46C8-86BE-5887EB5729B5.jpeg
 
It's off topic but I sure don't like roll pins in what's supposed to be a replica. Sort of like phillips screws. Notchy Bob got it right. Don't adjust the trigger unless the sear is out of a hammer notch. With the hammer at rest you can set the rear trigger and then turn in the adjustment screw until the front trigger trips. This is obviously too light so start backing out the adjustment screw until you get the pull you want. Set the triggers and give the butt stock a good rap with a rubber mallet or thump it on the floor. If the trigger fires it's a bit too light and not safe.
 

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