Clukmyrooster
32 Cal
Hello all tinkerers and craftsmen and what-have-ye's, I come bearing a multitude of questions regarding my latest impulse buy. Usually with my impulse buys I know what I'm getting into, this is not one of those occasions. So to start off, I had bid on what was listed as a functional 1851 Navy replica, but this non-functional 1862 Pocket Police (manu.1983) showed up instead. I did a bunch of research and reading to find out what I had actually been sent and if parts were available to fix it myself, and during that research I had figured I'd already spent too much effort into learning about it that it just wouldn't be worth sending it back. So I decided to keep it, it didn't hurt that the gun grew on me in that short period, it's a gorgeous piece.
So I disassembled it to diagnose what the problem was, and was able to learn the internal mechanisms and going-on's pretty well. The mainspring was cracked, the hand assembly spring was loose from its little housing crevice, and the flatspring broke while I was fiddling with the action a few days after I got it. I ordered some replacement parts from Taylor's and Co. to work on the revolver myself, only to find that Taylor's current production Uberti parts are apparently made to an oh-so slightly different spec than my 1983 manufactured Uberti. Emails exchanged between me and Taylor's also confirmed these differences in spec being because my particular revolver was made 41 years ago.
The mainspring required some dremel/filing work to actually fit underneath the hammer roller properly, and still provides what feels like more tension than it requires, but I don't know the gun well enough to confirm and since my sample size of 1 isn't good enough to not be biased I may be wrong but it could probably use just a little more filed off.
The cylinder locking bolt was not necessarily broken, but I figured I'd get a spare in case I needed it in the future, the actual locking nug is a bit too fat to squeeze into the cylinder notch, and quite flatter than the original. the two arms are also more flexed outwards, I'm not sure if that's by design or what. In the pictures you can see the difference in flex. And the original locking bolt, has a small bit on the end of the face that is more filed down whereas the replacement is squared off. But would I need to hand file down the locking nug to fit perfectly to my cylinder myself? Or did I get a lemon? The original is on the left, the new one from Taylor's is on the right.
The hand assembly and hand spring that came in the gun when I bought it are functional albeit the spring had come loose from its housing along the backside of the hand. I just slid it back in, and the hand now turns the cylinder again. I know this is a wear part and will likely need to be replaced at some point, so I got a replacement too. But the replacement hand assembly and spring are slightly different spec dimensions than the original, the spring is not as hook shaped, and is quite a bit longer. And the hand itself is a bit more narrow than the original.
Would I need to fit/file this spring down myself? What would be the best way of doing that without ruining the spring, or the temper?
Now for the flatspring, the replacement flatspring looks and seems quite different than the original. I was able to get it into the gun without altering it at all, and it is functional. However, while I had the broken original next to the replacement, the replacement spring seems to jut way further up into the internals, providing way more tension on all the other parts than the original was.
Now, when I put the hammer in half-****, it will either lock the cylinder completely like it's in full ****, or inconsistently let loose the cylinder like it's supposed to in half ****. I'm assuming that this is being cause by the flatspring providing too much tension to the other internals? In the following pictures, the obviously broken flatspring on the left is the original, and the other on the right is the replacement from Taylor's.
If there are any questions I can answer to make helping me any easier I'd be more than happy to oblige, I know I'm probably not using the right words or terminology to sufficiently explain myself. Thanks in advance
So I disassembled it to diagnose what the problem was, and was able to learn the internal mechanisms and going-on's pretty well. The mainspring was cracked, the hand assembly spring was loose from its little housing crevice, and the flatspring broke while I was fiddling with the action a few days after I got it. I ordered some replacement parts from Taylor's and Co. to work on the revolver myself, only to find that Taylor's current production Uberti parts are apparently made to an oh-so slightly different spec than my 1983 manufactured Uberti. Emails exchanged between me and Taylor's also confirmed these differences in spec being because my particular revolver was made 41 years ago.
The mainspring required some dremel/filing work to actually fit underneath the hammer roller properly, and still provides what feels like more tension than it requires, but I don't know the gun well enough to confirm and since my sample size of 1 isn't good enough to not be biased I may be wrong but it could probably use just a little more filed off.
The cylinder locking bolt was not necessarily broken, but I figured I'd get a spare in case I needed it in the future, the actual locking nug is a bit too fat to squeeze into the cylinder notch, and quite flatter than the original. the two arms are also more flexed outwards, I'm not sure if that's by design or what. In the pictures you can see the difference in flex. And the original locking bolt, has a small bit on the end of the face that is more filed down whereas the replacement is squared off. But would I need to hand file down the locking nug to fit perfectly to my cylinder myself? Or did I get a lemon? The original is on the left, the new one from Taylor's is on the right.
The hand assembly and hand spring that came in the gun when I bought it are functional albeit the spring had come loose from its housing along the backside of the hand. I just slid it back in, and the hand now turns the cylinder again. I know this is a wear part and will likely need to be replaced at some point, so I got a replacement too. But the replacement hand assembly and spring are slightly different spec dimensions than the original, the spring is not as hook shaped, and is quite a bit longer. And the hand itself is a bit more narrow than the original.
Would I need to fit/file this spring down myself? What would be the best way of doing that without ruining the spring, or the temper?
Now for the flatspring, the replacement flatspring looks and seems quite different than the original. I was able to get it into the gun without altering it at all, and it is functional. However, while I had the broken original next to the replacement, the replacement spring seems to jut way further up into the internals, providing way more tension on all the other parts than the original was.
Now, when I put the hammer in half-****, it will either lock the cylinder completely like it's in full ****, or inconsistently let loose the cylinder like it's supposed to in half ****. I'm assuming that this is being cause by the flatspring providing too much tension to the other internals? In the following pictures, the obviously broken flatspring on the left is the original, and the other on the right is the replacement from Taylor's.
If there are any questions I can answer to make helping me any easier I'd be more than happy to oblige, I know I'm probably not using the right words or terminology to sufficiently explain myself. Thanks in advance
