Uberti Dragoon issue, need help

[Boom Stick]

I have a new in box Uberti 3rd model Dragoon revolver that I bought a few months ago that I finally got around to today. I cut out, dyed, and stitched up a new half flap holster and belt for it and punched out some lubed wads for it, easy enough. Figured that I had enough time to take the revolver apart and give it a good clean and lube to get rid of the packing grease to get it ready to shoot and that is where the problem came up. I can not get the barrel off ... yes I pulled the wedge out, just saying. The barrel just will not come off after 20 minutes of pulling and tugging on the barrel and putting it on half cock and trying to use the loading lever / rammer for leverage for an assist like I did on my new 1851 Navy revolvers. The barrel will slide forward less than 1/8 of an inch (the bottom of the barrel assembly is still covering the two barrel / frame pins in the frame) and that is as far as it will go. I was so tempted to shove a flat head screwdriver in the space between the pins and try prying the barrel off that way but decided to not get stupid and damage the pistol.

Anyone else experience this before? Any suggestions to get the barrel off without damaging the pistol?

I've got some emery cloth that I was going to use to smooth out the inside of the cylinder as well as smooth out any burrs on the arbor, just cannot get the dang barrel off.

 

[BillinOregon]

I disassembled an Uberti 1860 for the first time last evening to give it a good cleaning and lube and actually had to use a soft mallet to tap gently against the ramrod catch to get it to budge. I was pleased to find the wedge could be removed and replaced with finger pressure, so this one may not have the infamous arbor issue.

 

[45D]

I have a new in box Uberti 3rd model Dragoon revolver that I bought a few months ago that I finally got around to today. I cut out, dyed, and stitched up a new half flap holster and belt for it and punched out some lubed wads for it, easy enough. Figured that I had enough time to take the revolver apart and give it a good clean and lube to get rid of the packing grease to get it ready to shoot and that is where the problem came up. I can not get the barrel off ... yes I pulled the wedge out, just saying. The barrel just will not come off after 20 minutes of pulling and tugging on the barrel and putting it on half cock and trying to use the loading lever / rammer for leverage for an assist like I did on my new 1851 Navy revolvers. The barrel will slide forward less than 1/8 of an inch (the bottom of the barrel assembly is still covering the two barrel / frame pins in the frame) and that is as far as it will go. I was so tempted to shove a flat head screwdriver in the space between the pins and try prying the barrel off that way but decided to not get stupid and damage the pistol.

Anyone else experience this before? Any suggestions to get the barrel off without damaging the pistol?

I've got some emery cloth that I was going to use to smooth out the inside of the cylinder as well as smooth out any burrs on the arbor, just cannot get the dang barrel off.

I disassembled an Uberti 1860 for the first time last evening to give it a good cleaning and lube and actually had to use a soft mallet to tap gently against the ramrod catch to get it to budge. I was pleased to find the wedge could be removed and replaced with finger pressure, so this one may not have the infamous arbor issue.

Or, tap lightly ( or heavy as needed) on the lever itself. Best to put a thin piece of stock ( feeler gauge leaf) between the plunger and cyl face.

BTW, "finger tight" doesn't apply sufficient pressure for the assemblage (and, they haven't fixed it yet, the arbor is short).

 

[William P Sepessy]

Two years ago I bought a pair of 2nd Model Ubertis and both barrels were very difficult to get off. Followed the Dealers advice and used a block of wood lodged against the frame opening. While holding the barrel in one hand with muzzle pointed up, I tapped the block of wood with a rubber mallet and finally both let go. Of course I did this over a soft surface as the heavy frame will the fall. Afterward I lightly polished those contact areas.

 

[wiscoaster]

... The barrel will slide forward less than 1/8 of an inch...

Did you take the wedge ALL the way out (ie removed the retaining screw)? What you're describing there sure sounds a heck of a lot like it's still hanging up on a wedge that's not completely out of the way. A wedge might look and feel like it's slid out to its limit, but if it's the least bit cockeyed, it's not.

If you did completely get the wedge out of the picture, use a mallet as mentioned above. You won't hurt it.

 

[Boom Stick]

Did you take the wedge ALL the way out (ie removed the retaining screw)? What you're describing there sure sounds a heck of a lot like it's still hanging up on a wedge that's not completely out of the way. A wedge might look and feel like it's slid out to its limit, but if it's the least bit cockeyed, it's not.

If you did completely get the wedge out of the picture, use a mallet as mentioned above. You won't hurt it.

Yes, I did remove the screw and the wedge completely. I will have my son hold the frame tomorrow and use a 3/4 inch dowl rod as a 'punch' and lightly tap it / the frame while holding the barrel assembly to see if that works.

Thanks for the ideas guys!

 

[45D]

Yes, I did remove the screw and the wedge completely. I will have my son hold the frame tomorrow and use a 3/4 inch dowl rod as a 'punch' and lightly tap it / the frame while holding the barrel assembly to see if that works.

Thanks for the ideas guys!

Lightly tap it ? That's your biggest problem!! These revolvers are made of steel not plastic!! You're not going to break it with a wooden dowel . . . in fact, I have aluminum rods for exactly the same thing ( one for .36 and one for .44). Hold the revolver by the barrel just above a rug . . . it'll be fine.

 

[Crow Choker]

Broom Stick--I had a Colt Conversion revolver (new, 1860 frame) that wouldn't allow the barrel and frame to separate. I didn't have a loading lever on it of course to use as leverage and all of the tapping, pulling and such didn't budge it. I took a heavy leather thong and put a whiplash knot around the barrel, tied the two loose ends in a square knot, then tied the leather loop via a small rope to a steel support beam in my basement. Padded the area around the beam and the floor just in case, then pulled horizontally on the revolver while tapping the area of the barrel where the arbor would be. Hung onto the revolver gripping it with forefinger in front of the trigger guard, thumb over cylinder. Enough pulling and tapping finally worked the frame and barrel loose enough where I could finish pulling it apart with two hands.

Have had a few stubborn Colt frames over the years but nothing like this one. Musta been a late day or Friday assembly as there were a few burrs within the barrel arbor hole, esp around the wedge slot that sort of force welded things tight. Careful filing and superfine emery cloth use smoothed things up. Several thin brass washers fixed the arbor length and revolver comes apart easily ever since, all needed gaps are right on, smooth shooter.

 

[hawkeye2]

I have had a few opentops, Piettas if that matters, that had some issues removing the barrels the first time. A careful inspection and deburring after disassembly took care of the problem.

 

[Bad Karma]

Lightly tap it ? That's your biggest problem!! These revolvers are made of steel not plastic!! You're not going to break it with a wooden dowel . . . in fact, I have aluminum rods for exactly the same thing ( one for .36 and one for .44). Hold the revolver by the barrel just above a rug . . . it'll be fine.

Need a bigger hammer…

 

[CaptainVane]

Any problem can be solved with large explosives! Or a really big hammer.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Yup, never force it. Get a bigger hammer.

 

[RiverRat]

I had that problem with my Walker. I shot it 24 times and it came apart easily after that.

 

[#BPBReloadingFFL]

Ahhh pull the wedge out ..load a cylinder with 30 gr BP stuff a RB in and cap &, let her fly