Thinking of getting a Pecatonica H&A underhammer. Any build guides for these? I'm mystified how they are built, simple as they are. How does the barrel/breech plug/receiver connect. Also saw somewhere a video of one that the barrel came off with three set screws? thanks for any help.
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Underhammer Questions
- Thread starter nagant
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Billnpatti
Cannon
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I built a copy of a H&A underhammer rifle a few years back. I got most of the parts from Deer Creek Products but had to send the action off to Long Hammock to have a barrel and breach plug fitted to the action. The barrel is fitted to the action using a plug type breach plug. It has no tang, just a round close fitting plug that fits into the action and is held there with three set screws.
One problem with these rifles, once you kick ass with your buddies, the won't want to shoot with you anymore.
The triggers are often so very crisp that your gun is deadly.
Also the fact that the nipple is under the barrel, you are not distracted.
Remember to have tight fitting long sleeved shirt while shooting.
The blast from the cap will eat your wrist area.
Also if you hold your rifle with your off hand to the side, you do not have flash & burn problems.
You can't buy a more accurate rifle.
If you do your home work, you will find the under hammer dates way back, so, your rifle should pass the critical eye of period correct people.
Fred
The triggers are often so very crisp that your gun is deadly.
Also the fact that the nipple is under the barrel, you are not distracted.
Remember to have tight fitting long sleeved shirt while shooting.
The blast from the cap will eat your wrist area.
Also if you hold your rifle with your off hand to the side, you do not have flash & burn problems.
You can't buy a more accurate rifle.
If you do your home work, you will find the under hammer dates way back, so, your rifle should pass the critical eye of period correct people.
Fred
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This is my H&A. I threaded the front of the receiver and made a new double ended ,threaded breach plug. The plug draws the the barrel and action together making the whole unit much more rigid.
The old taper pin plug holes were also threaded and large set screws employed locking into seats drilled in the plug.
No need to wear long sleeve shirts as this flash diverter keeps all fire off your lower arm.
The trigger shank was lengthened to re-position it to the rear of the bow spring.
The old taper pin plug holes were also threaded and large set screws employed locking into seats drilled in the plug.
No need to wear long sleeve shirts as this flash diverter keeps all fire off your lower arm.
The trigger shank was lengthened to re-position it to the rear of the bow spring.
Thanks everyone. I'm still not sure how they secure barrel, no set screws in parts list but must come with. Now for the caliber .62 has been on the wish list but the cost/skill needed counts me out and the only rifled barrel in .62 is the 31" jeager. Not sure if the jeager would work but the thought of a swamped underhammer tickles me for some reason! For around $600 without the forearm which i dont care for anyway with dovetails cut, breech plug installed and and maybe an extra thimble i might just be able too pull it off. O.K. let me have it 
i have a .50 cal TC new englander now and like it very much.
i have a .50 cal TC new englander now and like it very much.Hi,
One of the great advantages of the under hammer action, is that your options are limitless.
Once you see how the breech plug works, all you have to do, is keep your eye pealed for a good/perfect barrel.
Buy or make another breech plug, and then you have a new gun for minimal cost
I have five barrels for my under hammer.
My .36 cal. is a dream to shoot, cheap on lead and powder, very accurate as well.
AND no recoil
Best regards!
Fred
One of the great advantages of the under hammer action, is that your options are limitless.
Once you see how the breech plug works, all you have to do, is keep your eye pealed for a good/perfect barrel.
Buy or make another breech plug, and then you have a new gun for minimal cost
I have five barrels for my under hammer.
My .36 cal. is a dream to shoot, cheap on lead and powder, very accurate as well.
AND no recoil
Best regards!
Fred
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I'm looking/drooling over a 40 caliber heavy Montana barrel underhammer rifle. It needs a Forearm and isn't dovetailed for sights. It's never been fired. I'm thinking target sights... can a tang sight be fitted on one?
Sorry to :hijacked:
Sorry to :hijacked:
the problem of cap flash on the wrist omes from the flash cup missing. they fall off when the ap is removed. I make new ones out of 1/2" copper pipe caps. I have been shooting underhammers for 30 years been stung on the wrist 5 times each time there was no flash cup.
I use the tapered pin to secure my barrels. it keeps the barrel and sights orientated to the action so you get the same hold and sight picture each time.
I use the tapered pin to secure my barrels. it keeps the barrel and sights orientated to the action so you get the same hold and sight picture each time.
hanshi
Cannon
Very nice underhammer. I used one for many years with satisfaction and success.
Eterry said:
Check out the twist rate on that Montana. Many were very slow twists. For a .40, no slower than 1:48" or you will have problems finding the sweet spot loads.
I used to sell H&A undies in my shop, ca. 1970s. They utilized only a tapered pin. Worked fine. My family shot them and have the awards to testify on how well they can shoot. For a dual purpose rifle (target and hunting) you can tune the trigger for near set lightness the easily replace it come hunting season. Their beauty is in their simplicity.
ayetter2003
36 Cal.
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Use the other underhammer action supplied by pecatonica not the H&A Pete Allen's heat treat on the parts aren't very good. After a few hundred rounds the full and half crock notch will chip and break. I use his other underhammer action while more complicated is better built also trigger has some adjustment. So far have built 3 with plans to build more.
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I used a couple different anti flash cup shields for years and can't remember how many times I burned the manure out of my left wrist. None of them worked very good. I remember shooting one winter day and smelled something burning only to find it was the sleeve on my Carhart coat.
That was the final straw for me so I designed the flash guard seen on the rifle .It is held in place by a long shank nipple and the profile of the bottom is mated to the bottom three barrel flats.
I can now shoot in a T shirt without getting flash burned it works so well. I did remove the cocking spur on the hammer but it is not necessary as it could have been heated and forged back out of the way. I wanted to lighten the hammer for speed. I cock it with a deer antler point which looks kind of cool along with working perfectly.
I also had to make a socket T handle wrench shown in the first picture to remove the nipple through the brass flash guard which has a removable lid for wrench access.
That was the final straw for me so I designed the flash guard seen on the rifle .It is held in place by a long shank nipple and the profile of the bottom is mated to the bottom three barrel flats.
I can now shoot in a T shirt without getting flash burned it works so well. I did remove the cocking spur on the hammer but it is not necessary as it could have been heated and forged back out of the way. I wanted to lighten the hammer for speed. I cock it with a deer antler point which looks kind of cool along with working perfectly.
I also had to make a socket T handle wrench shown in the first picture to remove the nipple through the brass flash guard which has a removable lid for wrench access.
- Joined
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I have another one of these H&A actions with flat sides still in the white given to me but don't know who the maker is.
Looks better made then the original on my rifle.
The for arm on the rifle is original from when it was a buggy rifle. It fell over in my shop some years ago and splintered the original butt stock. I had a walnut plank that was not very good grade and made the new one which is not nearly as nice as the one that shattered.
Also forged out a grip strap and installed it on the replacement butt stock which feels really good for target shooting. Some ideas you may want to try out.
In this picture the lid is removed from the flash guard to access the nipple with the t handle wrench.
Looks better made then the original on my rifle.
The for arm on the rifle is original from when it was a buggy rifle. It fell over in my shop some years ago and splintered the original butt stock. I had a walnut plank that was not very good grade and made the new one which is not nearly as nice as the one that shattered.
Also forged out a grip strap and installed it on the replacement butt stock which feels really good for target shooting. Some ideas you may want to try out.
In this picture the lid is removed from the flash guard to access the nipple with the t handle wrench.
