The only problem with Fiebing's Leather Dye is it is made for show repairs so it is very dark. It's real easy to overdo it and end up with a color on the stock that is much darker than the color that's wanted.
To solve this, buy a can of denatured alcohol. Use the alcohol to dilute the dye at least by 1/2. Adding 3 to 4 times as much alcohol is maybe even better.
By doing this, each coat of dye will darken the wood some but not too much. Then, when that coat is dry, more coats can be added with each one further darkening the wood until it gets to the color and darkness the builder wants.
Be sure to check this darkness while the stain is wet. It will look lighter when it drys but it will return to the "wet" color as soon as a finishing oil is added.
Linseed oil can be used to finish the wood but it takes a LONG time to dry. Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is basically the same as linseed but it has driers added to it so it drys in a few hours rather than a few weeks. Pure 100% Tung oil also takes forever to dry. They do make Tung oil with driers added but it's a real good idea to check out the can to see what the drying times are before buying it.
While I hate Minwax stains because they attempt to color the wood as well as finish it, they also make a Tung finishing oil that's not bad. Watco Danish wood finish is another one that is pretty good.
Remember, when applying the oil, you do NOT want to brush it on. Finishing a gun stock requires using a small rag soaked in the oil and then rubbed into the wood. By doing this several times and letting it dry between coats, a beautiful smooth finish can be achieved. It won't look like it was painted on. It will look like it is a natural part of the wood.
Have fun.
