Used Uberti Walker

[dlimoges]

I just bought a used uberti walker .What size round ball should I use ? I gave $150 for it . Now i have figure how old it is. The number on it A46452

 

[Zonie]

elmer:
Use a .454 or a .457 diameter ball in your Walker.

The serial number won't do many of us any good at dating your gun but there will be a square or rectangular box adjacent to the proof marks on the frame.
In that box will either be a roman numeral or some capital letters. These indicate the date the gun was proofed.

If you let us know the letters, we can tell you the year the gun was made.

 

[Mulebrain]

You stole it! :shocked2:

 

[Bob Riegl]

:v Nice price, great gun---use a .454 mold. :thumbsup:

 

[dlimoges]

Thanks everybody I found a BU on the side. That makes it 2000.Can i use tripple 7 in it or should i use black powder?

 

[mukluk]

You can use triple 7 if you want, but mine shoots best with real black. The best load in mine is 55gr fffg, Hornady .454 rb, crisco over the balls, and CCI #11 mag caps. I highly recommend replacing the original nipples with Ampco ones, they're excellent quality and caps fit them much better. Something else you may consider is to modify your loading lever catch with a slight hook to keep it from turning into a monopod while ya shoot. :thumbsup:

 

[Sham66]

Howdy!

I agree completely with my fellow Texan. But these guns and parts have their quirks. Mine shaves good lead with .457, where .454 are a tad small but work great in my other revolvers. Also with the nipples. The Ampco/Treso's are great, but mine uses #10 Remmington. 11's are just too big!

Have fun!

James

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

:thumbsup: Nice price! If you don't use crisco, try a 50 grain charge of FFFg, a wonder-wad, and a .454 Hornady. This combo works real well and wins competitions. A small blue rubber band also keeps the rammer where it belongs :wink: . I aim 6.5 inches low at 25 yards with the above load...your sight picture may vary.

Good luck!

Dave

 

[docjim]

RE sight picture; Most pistols are sighted for the bottom of the outer black ring to shoot to center at 20 yds. It allows a better view of the front post against the white field. That's why they seem to shoot a bit high.. Just a way of doing things.
DOC

 

[docjim]

OOPs another thought or 2. Make sure the nipples hold the caps well! Chain Firing tends to occur more at the back of the cylinder than the front through loose or missing caps. The flame coming out of a nipple can throw enough hot stuff to light off the other chambers. (As proven in high speed video). I do not like pinched caps for that reason... Use #10's or get better nipples for 11's. You paid good money for the revolver, Don't blow it up for lack of a few dollars worth of nipples. Not to mention what a chain fire will do to your shorts!! :thumbsup:
& about the Crisco on the front... It makes a HELL of a mess, attracts dirt, it melts, gets in your holster, yucchh. Use a wool felt wad (wonderwad) barely dampened w/ ballistol, BoreButter, SlikLoad, etc over the powder. Much neater way to soften fouling.. DOC

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

Most cap and ball revolvers were sighted for cavalry use and shoot high at close range--especially the .44 Dragoons, including the Walker. The big ones and even the '60 Colt Army and the Remington Armies were intended to be used at distances that surprise a lot of modern folks. They learned where the ball would be at a given range and sighted accordingly. They probably didn't punch paper very often, but they could hit their target when it counted.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

The NRA pistol qualification targets that we use at the BP pistol league have a nice black bull. I need to aim under the famous 6 o'clock position (in the white of the target) in order to put the round where I want it.

When plinking or doing a novelty-type shoot, it's often necessary to estimate and make adjustments to point of aim on the up-close and personal tiny sized targets--that's why I measured the actual distance. No matter what I shoot at or how wide the black bull is on a given target, I merely measure a blank with a ruler to determine the proper aiming point for my Walker. Soda cans or paper bullseyes don't stand a chance :haha:

Dave

 

[jimmytheshank]

What exactly do you need to do to modify that catch so the rammer doesnt fall?

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

A small file. Carefully flatten the part of the catch that mates with the lever. It doesn't take much. I did mine at the range and I shot one max load and the lever dropped. Filed a little and tried again. Took maybe three or four shots and it was done. You can barely tell I removed any metal from it at all but it made all the difference it needed.

 

[jimmytheshank]

Thanks for the help. Any Walker owners out there ever refinish your pistol? I've seen some with a pewter finsh out there.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

I seriously aged my Uberti Walker and put some artificial wear on my Sig Series 1860 Army. I gave it a wear silvered look to go with the holster wear it already had.
You can see the '60 Army at:

www.msnusers.com/fotosbyruss

It's under documents I think.

 

[jimmytheshank]

Beautiful guns you got there!
How did you age your 60 Army?

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

Thank you. There was some wear on the usual high points from normal use and handling and riding in a holster. I used a Scotch Brite pad to dull the case colors on the frame and hammer and loading lever. Then I used the pad very carefully to remove blueing until I liked the way it looked. I filed the backstrap to get rid of the signature and reblued it with Van's gun blue and then took the varnish off the grips with acetone and finished them with a little Minwax I happened to have. The whole gun was rubbed with emery cloth to blend everything together and that pretty much was it. This was one of those poorly finished Sig Series guns you hear about but it was dead accurate and had an action as smooth as glass!