Vent Hole Drilling
- Thread starter kmeyer
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First of all, DO NOT drill the barrel with the breechplug in the breech.
2nd, I say drill the hole straight & keep things level & the guy next to ya best move if he don't want a vent blast.
3rd, Ifthis is a swamped barrel you should shim the barrel up to level before drilling. Drill a pilot hole, then drill the proper size hole for the vent liner threads.
I tap my vent liner threads while it is in the drill press right after I drill the hole. I turn the power off to the drill, chuck in the tap & run it by hand holding a slight down pressure on the control arm. This way I KNOW it went in straight. Tap a lil, back it up, tap a lil , back it up. use lots of tap oil.
When I get it tapped, I put the countersink in & do that also by hand.
:results:
2nd, I say drill the hole straight & keep things level & the guy next to ya best move if he don't want a vent blast.
3rd, Ifthis is a swamped barrel you should shim the barrel up to level before drilling. Drill a pilot hole, then drill the proper size hole for the vent liner threads.
I tap my vent liner threads while it is in the drill press right after I drill the hole. I turn the power off to the drill, chuck in the tap & run it by hand holding a slight down pressure on the control arm. This way I KNOW it went in straight. Tap a lil, back it up, tap a lil , back it up. use lots of tap oil.
When I get it tapped, I put the countersink in & do that also by hand.
:results:
I do exactly as Birddog says. Also when you are finished make sure the vent does not protrude into the breech threads or stick out into the barrel where a cleaning jag might get caught on it. If it is sticking into the barrel you need to take a small file and carefully file it off flush on the inside.
Thanks for the advise. Most people are saying have Pecatonica install the breech plug, but they won't drill the vent hole.
I understand what is meant by making sure the hole does not stick out into the bore on the inside, but how could it poretrude into the plug threads? Won't the hole be drilled just in front of the plug?
I understand what is meant by making sure the hole does not stick out into the bore on the inside, but how could it poretrude into the plug threads? Won't the hole be drilled just in front of the plug?
The reason, I suspect, they will not drill the ventliner is it needs to line up with the center of the pan on your lock. Even though the stock is pre-inlet, The lock may move forward or backward a little or the barrel may end up being forward or backward a little as you finish the inletting. Not to mention up and down. It doesn't have to move much to throw the vent liner off a little as it centers up on the pan. Most builders will not install the liner till the barrel and lock is inlet and the tang bolt and lock bolts are in place. It's one of the last things I do.
Your right, it should go in front of the breech plug face but sometimes it will hit in the threads and you will have to notch the breech face a little. I haven't had to do that yet but I'm sure I will some day.
Get them to install the breech plug. Money well spent in terms of how long it will take you to do it unless you just want to learn.
PD
Your right, it should go in front of the breech plug face but sometimes it will hit in the threads and you will have to notch the breech face a little. I haven't had to do that yet but I'm sure I will some day.
Get them to install the breech plug. Money well spent in terms of how long it will take you to do it unless you just want to learn.
PD
kmeyer: I didn't see if you were just planning on drilling the touch hole directly in the barrel or if you were going to install a liner.
If your installing a liner, there are several different thread sizes available.
To tell you what size to drill the hole for one of them, we would have to know what the thread size is.
If it is the 1/4-28 thread, the size of drill to use is a #3 (.213 diameter). If you can't find someone who can sell you a number 3, a 7/32 (.2187) could be used but don't let it elongate the hole. This can happen if you'r using a electric hand drill and you don't keep the drill going in a straight line.
If your installing a liner, there are several different thread sizes available.
To tell you what size to drill the hole for one of them, we would have to know what the thread size is.
If it is the 1/4-28 thread, the size of drill to use is a #3 (.213 diameter). If you can't find someone who can sell you a number 3, a 7/32 (.2187) could be used but don't let it elongate the hole. This can happen if you'r using a electric hand drill and you don't keep the drill going in a straight line.
mikee51848
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Make sure they use a lube on the breech plug. Mine was installed dry and I needed a gunsmith to remove it (you'd need a heavy wood vise and a some good wrenches otherwise).
You will need, as Birddog6 says, to remove the plug to drill the touch hole. I had to file a cone into my rifle's plug, as Chuck Dixon's book shows, to get correct clearance. Good luck on your build!
I guess I need to research the liner choice and I did not think about that yet. You all are answering my question perfectly. Thanks a bunch. Why though would I pay them to install the plug when it would be best to remove it when I drill the vent hole? Wouldn't it be smarter to use that money to buy paste for the threads and just install it myslef after drilling the vent hole? Isn't it a matter of just screwing it in? Thanks again all
PS: Now I wonder if I should just spend $100 and get a small table drill press. Over the years I'll use it.
PS: Now I wonder if I should just spend $100 and get a small table drill press. Over the years I'll use it.
This is a good pictorial on installing a Chambers White Light 'n liner.. LINER INSTALLATION
No, it is not a matter of just screwing it in. Depending on what barrel you get, some have breech plugs fitted & some don't. However, I check them ALL to be sure they are fitted properly as I have had them NOT fitted correctly & had gaps at the breech face.
I received a barrel a few months ago & it had a 1/2" plug in a 9/16" hole ! Now don't ya think that didn't tick me off when I pulled that plug ! And it came straight from the barrel maker too ! It was a dumb error on their part & most likely a fluke, but it just goes to show ya that you DO need to check ALL of them.
I received a barrel a few months ago & it had a 1/2" plug in a 9/16" hole ! Now don't ya think that didn't tick me off when I pulled that plug ! And it came straight from the barrel maker too ! It was a dumb error on their part & most likely a fluke, but it just goes to show ya that you DO need to check ALL of them.
mikee51848
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:relax:
They will probably do a better job of initial installation of the plug. They will properly line up the tang with the barrel and mark the barrel with two lines so you can tell for future reference. On mine, from Pecatonica, you could barely tell it was even screwed on at all. If you have good vises, you don't need them to install it, but for a first timer, I wanted it done. As I've said before, and I'm going by what Dixon told me, the plug had no lube or grease on it. Whether that's how at Pecatonica all his breech plugs are done or this was just an anomally, I don't know. I had the plug off (and re-installed) twice in construction and drilling of the touch hole. By putting a high temp lube on the plug, it came off rather easy. A little force is required to line up the plug correctly again. HINT: don't do something stupid like me :redface: and vise the barrel and try to remove the plug, rather vise the plug and turn the barrel (more torque). If you get Dixon's book :thumbsup: he explains touch hole location and filing of the beech plug, if neccessary. When drilling the touch hole location, use a set to mark the hole and mark your drill bit so you don't drill into the other side of the barrel. One additional step I'd reccommend is after you've drilled, tapped and installed your touch hole liner, and with the breech plug out, clean up any metal burrs or filings that the drilling and tapping may have created around the touch hole opening inside the barrel. I used a bore brush. The good news is once you've got your touch-hole liner installed and your plug back in place, you'll probably never have to remove the plug again. Hey, even a novice like me had success and my gun shoots great. :haha:
They will probably do a better job of initial installation of the plug. They will properly line up the tang with the barrel and mark the barrel with two lines so you can tell for future reference. On mine, from Pecatonica, you could barely tell it was even screwed on at all. If you have good vises, you don't need them to install it, but for a first timer, I wanted it done. As I've said before, and I'm going by what Dixon told me, the plug had no lube or grease on it. Whether that's how at Pecatonica all his breech plugs are done or this was just an anomally, I don't know. I had the plug off (and re-installed) twice in construction and drilling of the touch hole. By putting a high temp lube on the plug, it came off rather easy. A little force is required to line up the plug correctly again. HINT: don't do something stupid like me :redface: and vise the barrel and try to remove the plug, rather vise the plug and turn the barrel (more torque). If you get Dixon's book :thumbsup: he explains touch hole location and filing of the beech plug, if neccessary. When drilling the touch hole location, use a set to mark the hole and mark your drill bit so you don't drill into the other side of the barrel. One additional step I'd reccommend is after you've drilled, tapped and installed your touch hole liner, and with the breech plug out, clean up any metal burrs or filings that the drilling and tapping may have created around the touch hole opening inside the barrel. I used a bore brush. The good news is once you've got your touch-hole liner installed and your plug back in place, you'll probably never have to remove the plug again. Hey, even a novice like me had success and my gun shoots great. :haha:
If you really don't want to do it yourself The Possibles Shop will drill and install touch hole liner..scroll down on this page. LINER INSTALLATION
Much more complicated than just screwing it in. The breech plug face needs to seal agains the shoulder of the bore. The length of the plug threads and the threads in the barrel have to be exactly the same at the same time lining up the tang with the top flat. Do a search thru the archives and you will find lots of good reading on it.
I built one gun without a drill press and swore I would never attempt it again. Sometimes you can find them at Sears for 79 or 89 dollars.
I built one gun without a drill press and swore I would never attempt it again. Sometimes you can find them at Sears for 79 or 89 dollars.
mikee51848
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Thanks Packdog. I knew it had to be tight against the barrel, just didn't state in your words. Like I said, I'm a beginner too when it comes to building.
:thanks:
Kmeyer
Wildatheart,
I was really directing my comment toward Kmeyer's question. I did not mean to imply you did not know.
:sorryD
Wouldn't it be smarter to use that money to buy paste for the threads and just install it myslef after drilling the vent hole? Isn't it a matter of just screwing it in? Thanks again all
Wildatheart,
I was really directing my comment toward Kmeyer's question. I did not mean to imply you did not know.
:sorry
D
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I am also getting ready to drill my vent hole for my liner in a northwest trade gun. According to Recreating the American Longrifle, the location of the hole is not as critical on smoothbores, and large bore rifles.
I looked at a T/C Hawken flintlock .50 I own. Funny how you don't notice things until you start to work on them, but the touch hole liner in my T/C is off, located well back near the edge of the rear of the pan. Maybe thats part of the reason I have always had unreliable ignition with this flinter.
I looked at a T/C Hawken flintlock .50 I own. Funny how you don't notice things until you start to work on them, but the touch hole liner in my T/C is off, located well back near the edge of the rear of the pan. Maybe thats part of the reason I have always had unreliable ignition with this flinter.
11th Corps: I have to disagree with them on that. Poor ignition is poor ignition, regardless if it is a smoothbore or a large bore rifle. The touchhole must be in the correct place & installed properly to get the fastest possible ignition.
Put the barrel in the rifle & the lock in place. Lay a exacto blade or piece of paper across the flashpan & draw a line across the pan marking this on the barrel. Now take the paper off & draw a line on the barrel inside the flashpan of it's "U" shape. Remove the lock. Mark the center of the "U with a vertical line. OK, now you should have a + marked on the barrel. Put a dot on the right upper corner of the + that is touching the vertical & the horizontal line, so the dot is just barely above the horizontal line & just to the right of the vertical line. That is where you want the hole center for the vent liner. (Considering this is a RH rifle) Now centerpunch that dot & drill a pilot hole & then drill & tap the vent liner hole. Then cut the bevel for the liner seat, then chamfer the Inside edge of the vent liner hole so you have no jagged edges to catch the patches when you clean or swab. It is best to have the rifle built so this vent liner is also in the center of the flat thus you have plenty of room for the vent liner to recess into the flat area.
:results:
Put the barrel in the rifle & the lock in place. Lay a exacto blade or piece of paper across the flashpan & draw a line across the pan marking this on the barrel. Now take the paper off & draw a line on the barrel inside the flashpan of it's "U" shape. Remove the lock. Mark the center of the "U with a vertical line. OK, now you should have a + marked on the barrel. Put a dot on the right upper corner of the + that is touching the vertical & the horizontal line, so the dot is just barely above the horizontal line & just to the right of the vertical line. That is where you want the hole center for the vent liner. (Considering this is a RH rifle) Now centerpunch that dot & drill a pilot hole & then drill & tap the vent liner hole. Then cut the bevel for the liner seat, then chamfer the Inside edge of the vent liner hole so you have no jagged edges to catch the patches when you clean or swab. It is best to have the rifle built so this vent liner is also in the center of the flat thus you have plenty of room for the vent liner to recess into the flat area.
:results:
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