Very frustrated..need advice

[bubba.50]

If all else fails and you don't want to send it back, put a set of Davis Deerslayer triggers in it.

 

[Ed C.]

Hang on. Is the sear bar to long and binding on the stock. The sear bar is the long piece that comes away from the lock at 90°. Is it rubbing on the wood through the hole?

Initially it may have been. The milling of the stock was a mess. I cleaned it all up and shaved off the splinters in there. Cleaned up the bridle and workings. That is all ok now. Now I'm at the point where the last problem is a very hard pull on the set trigger. When I adjust it for an easy set it does not have enough force to trip the sear when activated by the the front trigger. Maybe this is how it works? IDK. Never shot a gun with double set trigger.

 

[Ed C.]

If all else fails and you don't want to send it back, put a set of Davis Deerslayer triggers in it.

Now that is an interesting option. I checked out their site and it looks like they cover plenty of models.

 

[OldRust]

In my opinion Investarms makes/made a quality factory gun but I have zero exposure to their post plague production.
I would contact Dixie and send it back but that's me.

As for set trigger adjustment Lots of good information here on the forum. Using the search function here is an example.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/tuning-a-set-trigger.139315/#post-1949828
Thanks,
O.R.

 

[SDSmlf]

Now I'm at the point where the last problem is a very hard pull on the set trigger. When I adjust it for an easy set it does not have enough force to trip the sear when activated by the the front trigger. Maybe this is how it works?

Here is something I have previously posted that may help you when attempting to adjust your set trigger. Apologize that the photographs are not the greatest.

In the first photograph the arrow is pointing at the screw that will adjust the amount of tension on the rear trigger. You can back this screw off to reduce the amount of force to ‘set’ the trigger, but you still need enough tension or force to trip the sear lever on the lock. Once you have found the minimum force required (trial and error adjustment of the screw), tighten the screw a half to a full turn (safety margin). Confirm it is still satisfactory, and then you may want to lock it in place with something like nail polish (I use red so I can easily see it). Make sure the trigger is fully locked into place in the stock when testing its function. If it is lose or out of position it will perform different.

To adjust the ‘hair’ trigger, with trigger assembly out of the gun, set the trigger and turn the screw between the triggers until the trigger pops. Then back off the screw a minimum of a half turn, though I would suggest a full turn for safety reasons. Lock the adjustment screw in place with nail polish.

 

[Urban Coyote]

Internet pricing at Dixie is $550.00 and for that price you get a gun that doesn't function? SEND IT BACK

I bought a new Ruger flattop .357 that had a problem with the rear sight. I figure I'd own the problem the minute I tied to correct it so I sent it back.

Having this experience on your first venture into muzzloading must be frustrating. Hang in there, once you get this squared away and move forward you're in for a lot of fun in the world of muzzleloading.

 

[Ed C.]

I think I've reached a good end to this story thanks to all the help. I'm happy with the triggers now. The three problems solved were 1) Sawdust, chips and channels needed cleaning on the stock along with cleaning the lock and trigger assemblies. 2) Screws needed to be loosened on the bridle. Thanks ord sgt for that advice. And 3) I was not aware that the big screw holding the flat spring on the trigger assembly could be used as an adjustment for set trigger tension. I had it dogged down all the way making the set trigger almost impossible to pull. Thanks TDM and SDSmlf for tips on that. So now I'm keeping it at least till it shoots. Which may have to wait about a week due to an imminent minor surgery and round balls still in the mail. Point of interest...the barrel is stamped 2017. Wasn't Investarms using Walnut stocks at that time? This one is Beech. Maybe a hybrid of older barrel and new stock?

 

[Ed C.]

Internet pricing at Dixie is $550.00 and for that price you get a gun that doesn't function? SEND IT BACK

I bought a new Ruger flattop .357 that had a problem with the rear sight. I figure I'd own the problem the minute I tied to correct it so I sent it back.

Having this experience on your first venture into muzzloading must be frustrating. Hang in there, once you get this squared away and move forward you're in for a lot of fun in the world of muzzleloading.

Thanks. I do have several revolvers and have come to accept that many of these replicas require some work to either make repairs or adjustments to get them doing what you want. I finally resolved the trigger problem and now have to wait about a week to shoot it.

 

[NorthFork]

I think I've reached a good end to this story thanks to all the help. I'm happy with the triggers now. The three problems solved were 1) Sawdust, chips and channels needed cleaning on the stock along with cleaning the lock and trigger assemblies. 2) Screws needed to be loosened on the bridle. Thanks ord sgt for that advice. And 3) I was not aware that the big screw holding the flat spring on the trigger assembly could be used as an adjustment for set trigger tension. I had it dogged down all the way making the set trigger almost impossible to pull. Thanks TDM and SDSmlf for tips on that. So now I'm keeping it at least till it shoots. Which may have to wait about a week due to an imminent minor surgery and round balls still in the mail. Point of interest...the barrel is stamped 2017. Wasn't Investarms using Walnut stocks at that time? This one is Beech. Maybe a hybrid of older barrel and new stock?

I am so glad you got it figured out! Most of the time sending it back is the best option. But occasionally some knowledge and stubbornness can be the way to go.

As for beech vs walnut. If it is euro beech, then it actually is a strong good wood for gun stocks. Better than walnut in my opinion in terms of function. Beech is less brittle than most walnuts. Now of course it looks terrible next to walnut or maple, but that's another matter altogether.

Investarms made rifles for themselves, Lyman, Cabela's and Dixie Gun Works (maybe others as well?). The specs will be slightly different between brands. So it is conceivable that Dixie spec'ed beech and not walnut.

 

[Ed C.]

Here is something I have previously posted that may help you when attempting to adjust your set trigger. Apologize that the photographs are not the greatest.

In the first photograph the arrow is pointing at the screw that will adjust the amount of tension on the rear trigger. You can back this screw off to reduce the amount of force to ‘set’ the trigger, but you still need enough tension or force to trip the sear lever on the lock. Once you have found the minimum force required (trial and error adjustment of the screw), tighten the screw a half to a full turn (safety margin). Confirm it is still satisfactory, and then you may want to lock it in place with something like nail polish (I use red so I can easily see it). Make sure the trigger is fully locked into place in the stock when testing its function. If it is lose or out of position it will perform different.
View attachment 180356
To adjust the ‘hair’ trigger, with trigger assembly out of the gun, set the trigger and turn the screw between the triggers until the trigger pops. Then back off the screw a minimum of a half turn, though I would suggest a full turn for safety reasons. Lock the adjustment screw in place with nail polish.
View attachment 180355

 

[Ed C.]

Thanks. A key tip.

 

[Ed C.]

I am so glad you got it figured out! Most of the time sending it back is the best option. But occasionally some knowledge and stubbornness can be the way to go.

As for beech vs walnut. If it is euro beech, then it actually is a strong good wood for gun stocks. Better than walnut in my opinion in terms of function. Beech is less brittle than most walnuts. Now of course it looks terrible next to walnut or maple, but that's another matter altogether.

Investarms made rifles for themselves, Lyman, Cabela's and Dixie Gun Works (maybe others as well?). The specs will be slightly different between brands. So it is conceivable that Dixie spec'ed beech and not walnut.

Thanks. I have a little knowledge...enough to be dangerous.... and a lot of stubborn. Bad combination for getting into trouble! I don't have a problem with with the Beech stock. I viewed this as a starter rifle to test the waters. So far without even shooting it it has been a good learning experience. Buying options on new rifles seems to be pretty limited right now.

 

[Britsmoothy]

So, how is the sear bar spring.? Is it crammed into the pivot point or just acting on the flat?
Is the movement of the sear bar trying to compress the the spring end on or is it acting as a v spring is meant to?

 

[Ed C.]

You’ve received good advice. Call Dixie up and tell them the situation and what you’ve done so far to remedy. There shouldn’t be any problems getting a replacement. But as @Grenadier1758 said it’s most likely the set trigger spring set too tightly. If you want to try and fix it take the trigger assembly and slightly loosen the rear screw on the flat spring until the set trigger sets freely. There’s also a small set screw forward of that for fine tuning. You can adjust these and the main trigger screw until the assembly functions as you want. That should correct the problem. It could be a lock problem, but most likely the set trigger spring. Even if you get a replacement be prepared to make adjustments on these as needed.

Thanks for the advice on the main spring flat screw. That was key to the final fix.

 

[TDM]

Thanks for the advice on the main spring flat screw. That was key to the final fix.

Good deal. Glad you got it sorted out.

 

[Ed C.]

So, how is the sear bar spring.? Is it crammed into the pivot point or just acting on the flat?
Is the movement of the sear bar trying to compress the the spring end on or is it acting as a v spring is meant to?

I don't know. It uses a coil spring in the lock. I seem to have it working now ok. The sear does have pretty deep engagement in the notch.

 

[gunpa]

I had similar problems with my new Dixie Hawken. Talked to their Smith and he had me send the stock and lock back. Came back under 2 weeks working fine. They stand behind their products.

 

[bubba.50]

I think I've reached a good end to this story thanks to all the help. I'm happy with the triggers now. The three problems solved were 1) Sawdust, chips and channels needed cleaning on the stock along with cleaning the lock and trigger assemblies. 2) Screws needed to be loosened on the bridle. Thanks ord sgt for that advice. And 3) I was not aware that the big screw holding the flat spring on the trigger assembly could be used as an adjustment for set trigger tension. I had it dogged down all the way making the set trigger almost impossible to pull. Thanks TDM and SDSmlf for tips on that. So now I'm keeping it at least till it shoots. Which may have to wait about a week due to an imminent minor surgery and round balls still in the mail. Point of interest...the barrel is stamped 2017. Wasn't Investarms using Walnut stocks at that time? This one is Beech. Maybe a hybrid of older barrel and new stock?

That “beech” stock may actually be European walnut which is much lighter colored than American black walnut. And which is what Investarm used for their stocks.

 

[Jappo]

There’s lots of possibilities it doesn’t work correctly. Without knowing the nomenclature it would be hard for me to explain everything to check. I had that happen to my Traditions pistol, the trip arm, leg thingamagig was bent up and the trip wasn’t reaching it. I put the lock on a protected vise and cocked it, pushed the leg up and it wouldn’t budge. The spring was dragging real bad. The sear notch was also not releasing it. I disassembled the whole thing, got some medium sandpaper and finished it off with Arkansas stone. Got the new leg part and everything works smooth. The leg got bent up where the trip was hitting it. I tried tapping it back down but it broke off. No biggie I already had the replacement. You can also set the tension on the trip. And last, if it’s releasing the trip and not hitting the leg. You’ll have to inlet the triggers some more or make sure they are all the way in.
If you don’t send it back, don’t give up. You can start there. I know the frustration. Once you understand how it all works you can troubleshoot it.

 

[Stantheman86]

I'm the same way, I've fixed guns myself that probably should have been sent back